Not sure about the 10 but my 13, different motors, had one when I bought it. Took it to a garage and the guy said it was a purge valve doing its job. Said it was noisier than most but was working.
2010 3.5 warm engine tick
Hey guys, I have a 2010 LT with the 3.5 engine. I bought it in unknown condition other than the transmission needed to be replaced. It has 117k miles on it. I replaced the transmission and now the car will move...so that's good. But now I have noticed that I have an engine tick once the car warms up (no tick for the first few minutes after being started). I do not have any sort of low oil pressure lights and it seems to be coming from the top of the engine in the head (R) closest to the firewall. If I rev the car up the speed of the tick increases. If I rev the car up quickly and then let off the gas it kind of makes a faint rattling noise before settling down to a rhythmic ticking. I was going to pull the intake off and remove the valve covers to see if I can find anything obviously wrong. Is this a common problem with these cars? Are the valves adjustable on these cars? The oil was defiantly due to be changed when I bought the car and it had been sitting for 3 months or so with out running.
The car runs nice and smooth and the noise is not detectable in the exhaust. Thanks for any advice/info.
The car runs nice and smooth and the noise is not detectable in the exhaust. Thanks for any advice/info.
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Change the oil and filter with some good Synthetic and a decent quality oil filter that has a bypass valve open pressure of 21psi.
Start her up and see if she gets less noisy.
The 3.5L uses the venerable and dead reliable double gear pump like the old Chevy smallblock V8. That type of oil pump typically lasts many hundreds of thousands of miles unlike the gerotor oil pumps on the LS V8 engines.
My 85 & 87 Subaru Wagons with the double rubber band drive OHC engines had gerotor oil pumps. The lifters started to clatter from worn out oil pumps every 90,000 - 100,000 miles just like clockwork. Bolt on a new oil pump and the lifter clatter went away. They don't have a stellar track record on other engines that utilize them either. My guess is they're super cheap to build and 100,000 miles is long enough to outlive most original owners and the EPA longevity requirements so the bean counters are happy.
Start her up and see if she gets less noisy.
The 3.5L uses the venerable and dead reliable double gear pump like the old Chevy smallblock V8. That type of oil pump typically lasts many hundreds of thousands of miles unlike the gerotor oil pumps on the LS V8 engines.
My 85 & 87 Subaru Wagons with the double rubber band drive OHC engines had gerotor oil pumps. The lifters started to clatter from worn out oil pumps every 90,000 - 100,000 miles just like clockwork. Bolt on a new oil pump and the lifter clatter went away. They don't have a stellar track record on other engines that utilize them either. My guess is they're super cheap to build and 100,000 miles is long enough to outlive most original owners and the EPA longevity requirements so the bean counters are happy.
The car has brand new oil in it right now. It might have 20 miles on it. When I noticed the ticking I added a few treatments to the oil (sea foam and one other that I cant remember right now), thinking something may be stuck since it seemed that the oil change was over due and the car had been sitting for 3 months. That has not seemed to help anything. I assume I need to pull the valve covers and see if I see anything obvious. Do these cars have adjustable valves? If so it is common for them to come out of adjustment and start ticking? I don't know any history on this car.
my dad had good luck with penzoil platinum removing some of his piston slap noises on an 01 5.3 v8, i'd probably try that and see what it does for the noises. motor honey i would stay away from if possible.
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