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^ marshallfd88, when I removed the bar brace to swap the battery, I put the 3 bolts back in finger tight so I wouldn't lose them. After struggling to get the old heavy batt. out, I set it on top of the loose bolts. It also took me several tries to install the new heavy batt., and each time pulling it back out and resting it on the bolts. My theory is placing it on top of those untightened bolts stripped the hole threads. When I reinstalled the bar brace, the larger single bolt on the back end tightened fine, but the 2 smaller bolts up front would not tighten. I snagged a few bar brace bolts at the pick-n-pull junkyard to no avail, the threaded holes are stripped probably due to the heavy batt. sitting/rocking on the loose bolts. I probably need a couple of self-tapping larger bolts or a bolt/nut/lock washer setup. For now, they'll snug up but not tighten so I left them. That fiasco was on my '12. A short time later I swapped the batt. on my '13 and didn't put the bar bolts back in hand tight 'til I reinstalled the bar. They tightened up just fine.
 

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Thanks for the info.

I was wondering how a bolt and nut combo would work on the lower especially given how the upper radiator support is enclosed. I assume drilling through may be the only option perhaps?
 

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Well, i've been dealing with these popping and creaking sounds coming from front passenger side of the engine. Replaced both lower control arms and swarbar links. Still didn't resolve the noises.
Started checking drive axles no problems there, boots are intact with no lose play. Tried removing upper engine mounts and rocking the engine, could not reproduce the sounds. While they were out , i rotated the bushing and it helped with more firmness. Shocks/struts are ok too, no loose play or creaking sounds. Checked the engine/tranny mounts all good there, no leaks or damage.

Finally decided to ask my friend to change gears between R/N/D with engine running and we could hear the same popping/creaking noises again. Took a few minutes for me to figure out that the damn braces for rad support were making the sound when torque applied. I could feel them twist. Took one of them out, no more popping/creaking noises! :eek:k3: Reinstalled and tightened them.

So folks, if you are dealing with suspension creaks when accelerating or braking and changing gears, make sure these braces are bolted down well.

This is what im talking about. 🍺

Boy am I glad to have seen THIS post!!!! I've been hearing noises very similar to what you described above: I've been preparing myself to replace the subframe bushings. It NEVER occurred to me that those braces being loose could cause the noises I've been hearing. Can't wait to check to see if that's what it is, cuz it'll save me some work if it turns out to be what you've outlined here. Thanks!!!
 

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Well, i've been dealing with these popping and creaking sounds coming from front passenger side of the engine. Replaced both lower control arms and swarbar links. Still didn't resolve the noises.
Started checking drive axles no problems there, boots are intact with no lose play. Tried removing upper engine mounts and rocking the engine, could not reproduce the sounds. While they were out , i rotated the bushing and it helped with more firmness. Shocks/struts are ok too, no loose play or creaking sounds. Checked the engine/tranny mounts all good there, no leaks or damage.

Finally decided to ask my friend to change gears between R/N/D with engine running and we could hear the same popping/creaking noises again. Took a few minutes for me to figure out that the damn braces for rad support were making the sound when torque applied. I could feel them twist. Took one of them out, no more popping/creaking noises! :eek:k3: Reinstalled and tightened them.

So folks, if you are dealing with suspension creaks when accelerating or braking and changing gears, make sure these braces are bolted down well.

This is what im talking about. 🍺

My husband says you are our hero. After replacing motor mounts ( that needed replacing- creaks and clunks were still there) we decided to replace the CV shaft (um, creaks and clunks still there) I googled this morning and found this. Thank you so very much. He tightened the bolts and the problem was fixed in under 60 seconds. Creaks and clunks gone! Again, THANK YOU!!!!
 
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