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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Everyone,

I have a couple of issues that I wanted to run by you. I bought the car in September 2012.

First off my transmission seems to be slipping without a particular pattern. It has become more noticeable since it has gotten colder (20 -30F). I had the fluid replaced around 90,000 and it has 92,000 on it. I bought it used from the dealership and it didn't do it, but it started in November. Is the transmission going bad or is there something I can do to keep it from "slamming" when taking off a stop (Does it even when your easy on the gas).

Secondly, there seems to be a "wobble" in the tire or something because the ride isn't smooth at all. I took it to my mechanic and he tells me the Ball Bearing on the LEFT front is going bad, but it is the RIGHT tire that doesn't ride smooth while he was testing it. He also tested the back right tire on the front to see if it was the tire and it did the same thing. I have had this issue since I bought the damn thing, but the dealership kept telling me that there isn't anything wrong with it. They did like 3 tire rotation and balances, but it didn't help. What might cause the tire on the RIGHT to wobble even though the left side is the one going bad? Also the "wobbliness" is REALLY noticeable while driving 25- 30 MPH and the car feels like the front tire wants to break off when making a left turn or backing up to the left.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I just want a couple of tips before I go back to the Dealer and they try to tell me there is nothing wrong.
 

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OEM LOL
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When a wheel bearring goes bad on one side, the other side is usually close to follow.
so its possible that both wheel bearings on both sides are bad.

When you got the trans serviced,Did they flush it and refill it or what? Did they change the filter?
 

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Otted, I'm sorry to see you've been experiencing these concerns! If your frustrations should continue while working with your dealership towards a resolution, please send me a private message anytime for further assistance. I'm always happy to contact your dealer to follow up on your behalf!

Best,

Katie
Chevrolet Customer Service
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
When a wheel bearring goes bad on one side, the other side is usually close to follow.
so its possible that both wheel bearings on both sides are bad.

When you got the trans serviced,Did they flush it and refill it or what? Did they change the filter?
I was told the right one was ok, but you never know I suppose.

I had the mechanic flush the fluid and change the filter.
 

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The symptoms you are describing sound like a bad cv joint, except for the tranny slip, don't know what to tell you on that one except be gentle, and good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah trans flushes kill these transmissions so good luck with that
I shoud clarify that I had the fluid changed along with the filter and not a transmission flush.

I took the car into the dealership on Monday and they did the following:


  • Checked the front end suspension components and found the left tie-rod to be bad and they replaced it
  • The rest of the components were tight to the technician
  • They did a force road test on the tires and found the tires to be within specifications
  • They found the front right tire to be out of balance, so they balanced the tires
With that being said it has not resolved my wobbly/bouncing feeling, it feels about the same at the same speeds:bang:

The advisor told me that the service director noticed that I had Goodyear Eagle LS Low Profile tires on my vehicle and that the tires do not ride like other premium All Season tires. Would tires really cause the wobbly feeling, or are they blowing smoke up my butt?:WTF:

As always I appreciate the insight of the forums :eek:k3:
 

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OEM LOL
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Also the "wobbliness" is REALLY noticeable while driving 25- 30 MPH and the car feels like the front tire wants to break off when making a left turn or backing up to the left.
A low profile tire wont cause that. it will make your ride rougher but shouldnt feel like your wheel is gonna break off.

The feeling is either
bad hub or wheel bearing on either side
(i just replaced my front right hub and bearing and it took the shaking out of my steerinf wheel completly and that popping skipping while turning the tires all the way)

Bad tierods can cause this to a certain degree

cv joint

rack and pinoin
 

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I'm having the same tranny problems with my 2006 LTZ. I had the filter changed and the fluid topped off but it didn't help much. Transmission shop said tranny was going bad and needed an o/h. He asked me to pull the gearshift back to low when starting off and see if that made a defference. It never slips when I do this. I was hoping it was a shift solonoid but he said it still needed an o/h. NEVER do a tranny flush. On the other problem, you might have a cv joint going bad.
 

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OEM LOL
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id just get a overkill tune.

he tunes the transmission control module and firms up the shifts and ups the trans pressure it helped a ton on my trans that was going bad.
 

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My left front wheel feels a little wobbly as well. I think my tie rods or cv joints are wearing out.
 

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When my tranny started going, it started with the occasional rev-cluck at take-off. What I have found is the the pressure control solenoid(PCS) goes bad over time. It starts off bad enough to cause a rev-clunk and seemingly damage the tranny, but not kick a code. You can possibly avoid doing a full o/h if you replace the PCS when this first starts, at least you will gain some time. This is the advice I gave to my neighbors who have an 06 ls 3.5, they did it and have had no more problems in 6 or so months.
 

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FWIW - three of the four wheel bearings here had failed before 80,000 miles. Found by raising the wheel off the ground, grabbing the top and bottom of the tire, and rocking. There was about 1/2" in-n-out movement. Tipped off to the problem, when mini-swerving down the highway, a very noticeable change in pitch of the road roar - followed up by the tire rocking test which verified the problem. Both fronts and left rear to date, right rear still doing OK.

Rear wheel alignment made the car feel greasy in the back end - like it wasn't wanting to follow the front end, with little shifts sideways felt in the seat of the pants.

Noticed the front end 'floating' at around 115,000 miles, but the bounce test didn't really point to a strut problem. Dealt with it for a while, then went ahead, pulled the trigger, and changed the struts. Found the fronts had absolutely no resistance downward, but still had good resistance upward as compared to the new struts. Rears were still in reasonably good shape.

Very disappointed with the OEM Goodyear RSA's - seemed to have to add 1-2psi weekly, went with the Goodyear Eagle GT's mainly because of availability in this area. Very pleased with the performance in rain and light snow. Treadwear with these 'high-performance' tires is also disappointing - getting only about 50,000 before the wear bars touch down - but hard to find anything other than 'high-performance' tires in the 235/50R18 size...

No tranny issues here, yet. Have done a pan drop and filter change at 67,000, 88,000 and 117,000. Was concerned with the crud in the pan and the fluid color at the first two changes, the pan was pretty clean and the fluid was still pretty red on this last change.

Suggest caution when pulling the shifter back to '1' - if the Brake-Transaxle Interlock Solenoid wiring has not been re-routed. The far-ranging movement stresses the wiring, which may result in either not being able to come out of Park the next time, or cannot get the key out of the ignition.
 

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Another thought - although rarely see it these days - tire out of round. The wheel will balance out fine, but the ride still feels rough.

Found by getting the tire up off the ground, stacking some stuff (2x4 block, beer can, etc) under the tire so the gap is small - say, about a half-inch, then rolling the wheel around while looking for changes in the gap.
 

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OEM LOL
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you can also put chalk marks aross the whole thread pattern of the tire and then roll it or drive it untill the chalk wears off.

Then you can see where the chalk is still left on the tire and see if its even all the way around the tire.

Also a good way to check for alighment issues.
 

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I'm having the same tranny problems with my 2006 LTZ. I had the filter changed and the fluid topped off but it didn't help much. Transmission shop said tranny was going bad and needed an o/h. He asked me to pull the gearshift back to low when starting off and see if that made a defference. It never slips when I do this. I was hoping it was a shift solonoid but he said it still needed an o/h. NEVER do a tranny flush. On the other problem, you might have a cv joint going bad.
How many miles on your car? I guess the expected lifetime of these transmissions is barely over 100k miles, just as the power train warranty runs out. Pathetic. How much is a rebuilt transmission?
 

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FWIW - three of the four wheel bearings here had failed before 80,000 miles. Found by raising the wheel off the ground, grabbing the top and bottom of the tire, and rocking. There was about 1/2" in-n-out movement. Tipped off to the problem, when mini-swerving down the highway, a very noticeable change in pitch of the road roar - followed up by the tire rocking test which verified the problem. Both fronts and left rear to date, right rear still doing OK.

Rear wheel alignment made the car feel greasy in the back end - like it wasn't wanting to follow the front end, with little shifts sideways felt in the seat of the pants.

Noticed the front end 'floating' at around 115,000 miles, but the bounce test didn't really point to a strut problem. Dealt with it for a while, then went ahead, pulled the trigger, and changed the struts. Found the fronts had absolutely no resistance downward, but still had good resistance upward as compared to the new struts. Rears were still in reasonably good shape.

Very disappointed with the OEM Goodyear RSA's - seemed to have to add 1-2psi weekly, went with the Goodyear Eagle GT's mainly because of availability in this area. Very pleased with the performance in rain and light snow. Treadwear with these 'high-performance' tires is also disappointing - getting only about 50,000 before the wear bars touch down - but hard to find anything other than 'high-performance' tires in the 235/50R18 size...

No tranny issues here, yet. Have done a pan drop and filter change at 67,000, 88,000 and 117,000. Was concerned with the crud in the pan and the fluid color at the first two changes, the pan was pretty clean and the fluid was still pretty red on this last change.

Suggest caution when pulling the shifter back to '1' - if the Brake-Transaxle Interlock Solenoid wiring has not been re-routed. The far-ranging movement stresses the wiring, which may result in either not being able to come out of Park the next time, or cannot get the key out of the ignition.
50,000 miles is disappointing thread wear on high performance tires? Are you kidding me? My neighbor got 15,000 miles out his rear OEM Michelin Pilots on his BMW before they went bald.
 

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50,000 miles is disappointing thread wear on high performance tires? Are you kidding me? My neighbor got 15,000 miles out his rear OEM Michelin Pilots on his BMW before they went bald.
Eh, well, Goodyear warranties 'em for 50,000 miles - figured with all the highway miles and my increasingly grampy-geezer driving habits, should'a got a little more.

I like the MasterCraft line, initial attraction because they're cheap - however at the time of purchase, they didn't offer tires in the size needed. On my other vehicles, they seem to last forever - pretty much the last tires I'll ever need to buy.
 

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Anyone have any information on how to change the pressure control valve?? I just recently changed the filter and fluid in mine. @119k miles now. The last time I changed it was @90k. It was doing the dreaded rev and clunk. I talked to a guy at my dealership and he advised me to put a bottle of the limited slip fluid in it. So, when I changed it and added the fluid, it stopped doing it until fairly recently.
When it starts doing it, I find that when I come to a stop I put the car in neutral. Then after a few seconds put it back in D. It doesn't do the clunk when I do that. Of course, you don't always have that option, I guess. lol.
Either way, the limited slip fluid is temporary at best.
 
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