Well it has been exactly 1 week since I changed the solenoid and I'm glad to report that my check engine light has not come back on and the problem has been fixed. :yahoo: My gas mileage has even gone up from 21-22 HWMPG to 24 HWMPG, which I and my gas tank really appreciate. My daily commute to work was avg about a 1/4 or more tank of gas and now its slightly under a 1/4 tank. May not sound like much but every little bit helps.k3: Especially when you avg a 100 miles daily.Glad you found this thread helpful, asilkygo30. I appreciate you taking the time to provide the community with insight into your particular concern and resolution!
I look forward to your updates, and please don't hesitate to contact me via direct message if you have additional questions in the meantime.
Chevrolet Customer Service
P0455 problem Fixed!
Well, after hearing some of the items my problem could have been, I finally took a look at the solenoid vent valve behind the gas cap. This is accessed from underneath the car, or more accessable, behind the plastic shrowd in the left rear well well. I was replacing brake pads and pulled a few clips and a screw to pull this back out of the way and the solenoid is right there.
First I disconnected the wire connector and it's a 12VDC 2-conductor (red/black) connector. I put a meter on it and turned the ignition over (not starting) to see if I got 12VDC. The computer cycles the solenoid upon start to initiate a leak check on the evap system. Well, I had the 12VDC I needed, so that eliminated half of the check. So, then I disconnected the actual valve from the bracket. The valve itself consists of two pieces. One is a filter housing and the other is the actual solenoid. You can actually disconnect the solenoid from the housing by lifting a plastic locking tab that locks the solenoid the the filter housing and then rotating the solenoid from the housing 90-degrees (1/4 turn connection), it will pull out. The nipple from the solenoid has a green o-ring on it.
Then I took a couple of wire leads I had made up and connected them to the battery just to see if the solenoid cycled. I don't think it really matters with a solenoid but you may want to be sure to connect the positive lead to the proper pin. You have to look at the connector on the car to verify which is red(+) and black(-), then apply to the proper pin at the solenoid itself. Like I said, I don't think DC voltage changes how the solenoid is energized, but just in case, follow suit with the power connector. It sounded like it was cycling very faintly, but also could be verifed by looking through the inlet of the solenoid and out of the outlet (you should be able to see into the inlet through the outlet when the solenoid is NOT excited.) Well, it was not cycling (could still see through). So I knocked the solenoid on a piece of wood a couple times gently and tried it again and then I could see the plunger opening and closing. So I thought it might had been just stuck. But after cycling it about 6-7 times it stopped cycling, but could then hear that faint clicking sound. So basically, it's junk.
These are solid state solenoids and can not really be repaired. So I went to the GM dealership and purchased one for $37. plugged it in... cleared the engine light and code by disconnecting the battery for 10-15 seconds (or you can use a code scanner to clear it). Started up the car and it's been a month or so since and I have no "Tighten Gas Cap" or Engine light codes.
So, apparently this valve was open all the time and was failing the vac check causing the engine light and Gas Cap messages... i.e. Large Evap Leak all the time causing horrible gas mileage.
I know this was pretty lengthy and detailed, but I hope it helps if you are also having this problem.
Please drop a reply if this DOES or DOES NOT fix your problem. I'd like to know. Thanks
Here is a link to canister..I have an 06. What was that part # for the part you got at the dealer? Thanks
Thanks for the link. Now, here is what I was told when I called the dealership today, and I would like to see what your opinion is on this:Here is a link to canister..
Vapor Canister Purge Valve Chevrolet Impala 07 08 09 10 AC Delco 214 2106 | eBay
There are a couple of things that could trigger this code, however most people find it is the evap solenoid at the rear of the car by the car filler tube as indicated by the link. If that is your issue it does not need an adapter. These solenoids have proven to be an issue as they are encased in plastic and the plastic cracks next to the solenoid allowing water and contaminates into it causing it to fail. Talk to the GM shop and ask them if what they are trying to sell you is the rear solenoid or the part in the front by the engine. Other than that is your choice. Also ask him if you can see the item he's talking about. Crawl under your car and check to see what yours looks like in comparison to what he is showing you. Maybe because of all the issue with them failing they may have made an upgrade. If so let us all know and give us a part number or pic of it.Thanks for the link. Now, here is what I was told when I called the dealership today, and I would like to see what your opinion is on this:
Called my local GM dealer, parts department, and told them what I was looking for. He asked for the last 8 digits of my vin , and I gave it to him. After a pause, he came back and said he had the part for $25.68. Great I thought, till he told me, that the part had been upgraded,and I would have to buy an adapter harness to go with the part for an extra , $36.44, which just raised the price.
Now the question is, if I buy that part on Ebay is that what I need, or do I also need this adapter harness? Thanks. I would like to get this done this weekend. I crawled under the car and looked at it this afternoon, and it doesn't look like it will be that hard to change.
Thanks for the reply, I will do that.There are a couple of things that could trigger this code, however most people find it is the evap solenoid at the rear of the car by the car filler tube as indicated by the link. If that is your issue it does not need an adapter. These solenoids have proven to be an issue as they are encased in plastic and the plastic cracks next to the solenoid allowing water and contaminates into it causing it to fail. Talk to the GM shop and ask them if what they are trying to sell you is the rear solenoid or the part in the front by the engine. Other than that is your choice. Also ask him if you can see the item he's talking about. Crawl under your car and check to see what yours looks like in comparison to what he is showing you. Maybe because of all the issue with them failing they may have made an upgrade. If so let us all know and give us a part number or pic of it.
Is your car a 2006 Impala? If so it does indicate that it has a different purge solenoid valve assembly than a 2007 up. I would see if it is located in the rear by the gas filler just inside the fender - viewable from under car looking up by gas filler tube. If it is than I'd check it out and match it up with what's offered at a dealer than order cheaper online. Mine came out of a 2007 Impala 3.5 and was not hard to change - about 20 minutes. Yours may be different. If so ask the question on this forum and I'm sure someone else has had the same problem. Hope that helps.:WTF:I have a 2006 3.9L and have the same problem, but im am confused on the part numbers for my car.
Rockauto.com lists ACDELCO Part # 2141473 + ACDELCO Part # PT250 adapter.
Amazon.com says this is the wrong one for my car, but doesnt have one that fits? Also, if that is the right part from rockauto, do i really need the adapter plug?