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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a few questions.

But first, I am glad to join you all here.

My first question is, is there a pre drilled hole for a amp power wire from the battery into the car? If not, where is the best place to drill the hole in the firewall for 0 gauge wire? Pictures would be appricated.

Also, very important question. My car came with a factory amp. I do not want to install a new radio, because of the features I need from my stock radio. I purchased two line converters. A 4 channel for my speaker amp, and a 2 channel for my sub amp.

How do I connect those to the wireing in the car by the stock amp? There are two harnesses. One must be input, the other must be output.

All pictures and step by step instructions and diagrams would be fantastic.

Thanks every one.
 

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Mr. Handy
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There is a rubber grommet under the passenger side carpet. Click the link below and scroll down in the "how to" section. There are harness's available in order to keep the stock stereo's functions. One of the harness's is a Y harness that relocates the stock stereo to the trunk. However using line converters is the easiest way (i used them too). Each line converter should have 4 or 5 (5th one for ground) wires coming off of it. You connect the positive and negative to each rear speaker AFTER the amplifier in the trunk. Test polarity of the rear speakers with a volt meter to be sure it is correct.

There is plenty of good information on this site: Impala HQ - Your source for information on the 2000-2002 Chevrolet Impala

2004 should have a very similar setup

Plenty of people on here have installed aftermarket receiver and will help you with what harness's are required. But, using line converters is way cheaper and alot easier.
 

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Go Get It
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You connect the positive and negative to each rear speaker AFTER the amplifier in the trunk. Test polarity of the rear speakers with a volt meter to be sure it is correct.
Not trying to pick a beef, but you should wire the LOC BEFORE the factory amp to avoid bi-amping the signal (which will cause distortion). Since he is using a 4 channel amp for his speakers, bi-amping the signal will cause a significant amount of distortion in his high range. For subwoofers, it doesn't matter as much, but it's still good form to tap the signal before the amplifier.

This is why RCA outputs on the back of aftermarket head units are referred to as "pre-amp out." The head unit has a built in amplifier for basic setups without additional amplifiers. Using the RCAs from the back of the head unit will give you the signal before it has been amplified by the internal amplifier in the head unit, reducing distortion.

Other than that, g25 is spot on

Edit: I tried using the rubber grommet that g25 mentioned in his post. I found it difficult to get my 4awg wire through, so you may have trouble trying to fit your 0awg. I ended up running the power wire though the rocker panel, and then through the rear wheel well into the trunk. Not my preferred method of doing it, but I couldn't get the damn wire to go through the grommet. YMMV
 
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Mr. Handy
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^^ Gotcha ryd. Thank you for the correction :eek:k3:

I have not done much research on speaker/amp setups but, mostly sub/amp setup's. I am plenty happy with my stock deck and eventually will upgrade the speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you for the information.

I did connect the LOC to the wires that were running into the factory amp. Everything sounds great.

I found the rubber bulkhead in the passengetr side floor. That was very convenient, although a pain to get the zero gauge through. But worked out fine in the end.
 

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Go Get It
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Glad everything worked out for ya :eek:k3:
 

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Mr. Handy
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I found the rubber bulkhead in the passengetr side floor. That was very convenient, although a pain to get the zero gauge through. But worked out fine in the end.
Your not the only one that struggled with it :giggle:

I ended up just drilling a hole through it and then filling the void with silicone
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I ended up taking the passanger wheel off, pushing the cable as far as I could so I could see a buldge. Then, with some needle nose pliers, pulled at it until i could see the cable. Grabbed said cable with said pliers and pulled through....oh how fun it was haha
 

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Sounds real fun lol.
 

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hey guys, sorry for bringing back an old post but when wiring the power cable through the passenger side firewall, do you have to remove the black plastic over it or just push it right through? I couldn't seem to get the wire through the plastic.
 

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Mr. Handy
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Not sure what black plastic piece you are talking about. You mean the rubber grommet that wires go through?

No do not remove that. Just push the wire through or cut/drill a hole next to the existing wires going through it. Be sure to keep away from the wires to not damage or cut them.
 
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