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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've seen this posted before, but it has me baffled. I started this car about 10 days ago and it ran fine for a few minutes. Turned it off to clean up and get it off of jacks and it hasn't started since. Jump didn't work. I did notice the positive battery terminal bolt was stripped so I replaced it. Also noticed that I couldn't tighten that bolt all the way. Negative was fine, but positive was slipping. Replaced battery. Same issue. Removed red rubber sleeve and cleaned the contacts as much as I could, yet I still couldn't get the bolt to tighten completely, even without the rubber sleeve. It seemed to have good contact anyway so when I still couldn't start it, I replaced the starter. Same issue.

So, this cable MAY be the source of my problems and I've got to replace it, but I'm still confused why the bolt won't tighten completely. It will tighten without the cable, but not with it.

Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Update: I noticed with the key turned to on, there is an intermittent soft clicking coming from the engine block, near the solenoid. I found my Autel scanner and will post the screenshot tomorrow. Not sure the readings will mean much if I couldn't start it- I'm no expert on these scanners.
 

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Could be lots of different causes. I have found my Impala has lots of electrical issues caused by corrosion within the harness connectors. Usually the corrosion doesn't show itself, but it's there and causing increased resistance and mayhem for the electrical circuitry. I spray DeoxIT on the connector pins and sockets and allow to dry before reconnecting. For me that clears up a lot of electrical problems...especially the weird quirky ones that come and go and are hard to diagnose. Here's a link that might help:


It may not solve your problem, but it's worth a try. Let us know how you finally get it resolved.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Could be lots of different causes. I have found my Impala has lots of electrical issues caused by corrosion within the harness connectors. Usually the corrosion doesn't show itself, but it's there and causing increased resistance and mayhem for the electrical circuitry. I spray DeoxIT on the connector pins and sockets and allow to dry before reconnecting. For me that clears up a lot of electrical problems...especially the weird quirky ones that come and go and are hard to diagnose. Here's a link that might help:


It may not solve your problem, but it's worth a try. Let us know how you finally get it resolved.
Thanks for responding. I do indeed think this is an electrical issue, though I am dumbfounded that I can't fully screw in the positive terminal bolt. I think I'll be replacing the entire harness. I assume to goes from positive to starter and alternator, but it looks like it goes to negative, too. Weird.

Where exactly have you been spraying DeoxIT?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Update: I noticed with the key turned to on, there is an intermittent soft clicking coming from the engine block. I found my Autel scanner and here's a screenshot of what I saw. Not sure the readings will mean much if I couldn't start it- I'm no expert on these scanners.
164029
 

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During 2009-2011, we were having issues with the PASSLOCK security system....kept locking up and disallowing the vehicle to start. I tried multiple solutions that did NOT work. The one solution that did work was spraying DeoxIT on the pins and connectors of the BCM (Body Control Module). My BCM is located behind the dash on the driver side next to the steering column. Other Impala BCMs are located on the passenger side. Once a year I remove the BCM and spray the 3 harness connectors and associated pins. This has resolved the issue 100% for me. Your issue might be different though. I am including pictures that show location of the BCM, the BCM itself and the connectors. Hope it helps. IMG00306-20111022-1551.jpg IMG00307-20111022-1551.jpg IMG00308-20111022-1551.jpg IMG00519-20120728-1930.jpg IMG00310-20111022-1552.jpg IMG00311-20111022-1553.jpg IMG00312-20111022-1554.jpg IMG00516-20120728-1928.jpg IMG00517-20120728-1929.jpg IMG00518-20120728-1929.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #7
During 2009-2011, we were having issues with the PASSLOCK security system....kept locking up and disallowing the vehicle to start. I tried multiple solutions that did NOT work. The one solution that did work was spraying DeoxIT on the pins and connectors of the BCM (Body Control Module). My BCM is located behind the dash on the driver side next to the steering column. Other Impala BCMs are located on the passenger side. Once a year I remove the BCM and spray the 3 harness connectors and associated pins. This has resolved the issue 100% for me. Your issue might be different though. I am including pictures that show location of the BCM, the BCM itself and the connectors. Hope it helps. View attachment 164030 View attachment 164031 View attachment 164032 View attachment 164040 View attachment 164034 View attachment 164035 View attachment 164036 View attachment 164037 View attachment 164038 View attachment 164039
Oh, I will definitely give this a try. I just ordered the DeoxIT and I'm going to see how hard this is to get to. I assume simply disconnecting it (battery unplugged) won't cause it to need reprogramming. Thanks for the tip. I'll let you know how it works out.
 

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The first time I looked, I was not able to find my BCM...I was looking on the passenger side, which is correct for some Impalas. But my BCM is located on the driver side. Yeah, definitely disconnect the negative battery cable before you start. I have never needed to do anything to the BCM after reconnecting to the power. I don't know if some of the BCM memory is erased after the power is disconnected or not. If the BCM memory is erased, it simply re-learned whatever it needed to know as I began driving again. I also need to remove a kick panel to gain access, but that only takes about 30 seconds. Let us know how it goes....
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
The first time I looked, I was not able to find my BCM...I was looking on the passenger side, which is correct for some Impalas. But my BCM is located on the driver side. Yeah, definitely disconnect the negative battery cable before you start. I have never needed to do anything to the BCM after reconnecting to the power. I don't know if some of the BCM memory is erased after the power is disconnected or not. If the BCM memory is erased, it simply re-learned whatever it needed to know as I began driving again. I also need to remove a kick panel to gain access, but that only takes about 30 seconds. Let us know how it goes....
A can of DeoxIT should be arriving this afternoon. I haven't looked for the BCM yet, but I think it's on the left side for a 2002, way down low next to the steering column and left of the brake pedal. I'm really hoping this was the problem. So, you just spray the pins and connectors and let it dry/work for a bit? 2:44PM EST Ugh, I found it, but like everything else that seems to be clipped in and tucked away, it is very difficult to get out of there. Giant taped up bunch of wires and hood-release cable in the way and it doesn't seem to want to turn in any direction that means OUT. Might end up trying to get the clips off and just spraying it where it lives. Took off the front panel under the steering wheel and was met with a metal plate in my way. No problem, I see three screws. Off they go and... the plate isn't budging and probably isn't meant to. eye roll OK. One more class to teach and I can try again. You must have a better way of getting that out if you need to spray it once a year.
 

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Yeah, I put my head down where the driver's feet would normally be located to access the BCM....can't remember if I am on my back or chest. Disconnect the 3 harnesses and then you can remove it....there's one sort of plastic clip that holds the BCM loosely in place. You won't need any tools as I remember.

I spray the DeoxIT on both the harness connectors and the BCM pins....doesn't take much. Just 1-2 minutes to allow it to dry a bit and then it's ready to go back in. The first time I did this, I had some generic electric motor cleaner. That worked but only for about one month until the corrosion came back. The DeoxIT will keep the corrosion off long-term. I would caution against being too optimistic, as there are a variety of other problems that could be the cause. But I hope this resolves your issue.....
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah, I put my head down where the driver's feet would normally be located to access the BCM....can't remember if I am on my back or chest. Disconnect the 3 harnesses and then you can remove it....there's one sort of plastic clip that holds the BCM loosely in place. You won't need any tools as I remember.

I spray the DeoxIT on both the harness connectors and the BCM pins....doesn't take much. Just 1-2 minutes to allow it to dry a bit and then it's ready to go back in. The first time I did this, I had some generic electric motor cleaner. That worked but only for about one month until the corrosion came back. The DeoxIT will keep the corrosion off long-term. I would caution against being too optimistic, as there are a variety of other problems that could be the cause. But I hope this resolves your issue.....
Well, I found it, but like everything else that seems to be clipped in and tucked away, it is very difficult to get out of there. Giant taped up bunch of wires and hood-release cable in the way and it doesn't seem to want to turn in any direction that means OUT. Might end up trying to get the clips off and just spraying it where it lives. Took off the front panel under the steering wheel and was met with a metal plate in my way. No problem, I see three screws. Off they go and... the plate isn't budging and probably isn't meant to. eye roll OK.

You must have a better way of getting that out if you need to spray it once a year. Checking YouTube.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So, I got them disconnected and sprayed. Waited a few minutes and put them back together, though they still seemed wet to me. Nothing quick-dry about this. Is it OK to try to start it now or should they be COMPLETELY dry, first?
 

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So, I got them disconnected and sprayed. Waited a few minutes and put them back together, though they still seemed wet to me. Nothing quick-dry about this. Is it OK to try to start it now or should they be COMPLETELY dry, first?
Yeah, that failed. Back to the drawing board. Thanks, though.
 
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