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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've changed the switch and it did fix it. I checked the for voltage at the motor and it gets voltage going down but not up. Also the rear passenger window does work at all. I checked for voltage on the tan wire and it doesn't have any voltage but the light blue wire has 12v+
 

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for the front.. the cable probably snapped on the regulator track.. Happens more often then not.. That, or the plastic guides have broken.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
for the front.. the cable probably snapped on the regulator track.. Happens more often then not.. That, or the plastic guides have broken.
I should have been more clear. I have checked the everything it has to be an electrical issue. thank you for trying to help through, I appreciate it.
 

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It almost sounds like a short in either one of a couple of places. I am not sure the history of this car or when the problems started. With that said I only can give some General ideas of where to try and find the fault...

One I would start with the Drivers Kick panel and check for some wires that were leading from the drivers door to the other doors...

Tan Wire is for Down for Right Front,
Light Blue Right Font Up

Purple Right Rear Down
Light Green UP

These should be if I remember right Reverse Polarity. So when the Tan wire is showing 12V the light Blue should be 0V then when you go other direction Tan 0V and Light Blue 12V same with the Purple and Light Green

So if you want to test your motor you can take a 9V battery from your drill or 12v battery and Put the +12v to Liight Blue and - battery to tan and should go up.

If you don't have a Computer safe Test light or Volt Meter you can always use a Light bulb 12v add leads, put one end at a 12v and then while trying to go up with your right front test Tan wire should be ground and the bulb should light.

If you find there is a bad ground you will need to check the switching in the drivers door... If all test out at the Drivers kick, Then move over to the door and test the leads again at the motor, then track wires back to find a broken wire that could be in the doors. Remove rubber boot and check for broken wires.

James
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It almost sounds like a short in either one of a couple of places. I am not sure the history of this car or when the problems started. With that said I only can give some General ideas of where to try and find the fault...

One I would start with the Drivers Kick panel and check for some wires that were leading from the drivers door to the other doors...

Tan Wire is for Down for Right Front,
Light Blue Right Font Up

Purple Right Rear Down
Light Green UP

These should be if I remember right Reverse Polarity. So when the Tan wire is showing 12V the light Blue should be 0V then when you go other direction Tan 0V and Light Blue 12V same with the Purple and Light Green

So if you want to test your motor you can take a 9V battery from your drill or 12v battery and Put the +12v to Liight Blue and - battery to tan and should go up.

If you don't have a Computer safe Test light or Volt Meter you can always use a Light bulb 12v add leads, put one end at a 12v and then while trying to go up with your right front test Tan wire should be ground and the bulb should light.

If you find there is a bad ground you will need to check the switching in the drivers door... If all test out at the Drivers kick, Then move over to the door and test the leads again at the motor, then track wires back to find a broken wire that could be in the doors. Remove rubber boot and check for broken wires.

James
The thing is the light blue wire is always hot and the tan never gets a charge.
 

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Please forgive me as I am not 100% sure with Wiring colors...

I think and almost sure that your system should have 2 main wires going to the motor. I think and this could be for older newer impalas as I can't remember them all when not infront of me.. But in the Door to the motor I think there is at each door a Brown for down and Dark Blu for up.

So if you give them 2 wires power from a 12v source does the motors go up and down?

Next if I remember right, The Lock out Switch on the drivers door turns off the 12v to the other doors. When you Flip that switch to lock out the other doors from working is that 12v that you say is always at the door, Does it go away?

Forgive me as I didn't go out and take my door apart so I can't confirm how this is setup. So I am going to go with the idea it is resting ground when working right... Then there is a Power wire going to the doors that could be a Dark Blue. IF you turn off the other windows that wire should be 0V... With that on the other windows should work, That would show 12V when in ACC or running.

This could be confusing I am sorry for that.. Because on the motor side for up I think it is Dark Blue. Just think of that one a MDB or Motor Dark Blue so you know it isn't the Dark Blue from the Lock out switch on the drivers door.

So If you move the Switch down on the Passenger door, The Brown wire going to the MOTOR should get the 12V and the MDB should be ground. IF you move the switch to Up the MDB should be 12V and the Brown to the motor should be Ground.

If you take your Test light and unplug the motor, You should be able to not getting anything from the 2 wires until you move the switch. Then to test that the Switch is working in both Directions, Ground your test light, Down and test the brown wire it should make the light turn on. Then Up should make the MDB wire light up.

IF your test light has the ability to test both ground and 12v with the Switch resting both wires from the switch to the motor should rest ground.

If your test light don't test for ground you could connect it to one of the wires going to the window motor and then touch the test lead to a known good 12v+ and the light should come on with the switch at rest. Then check the other wire and it also at rest should turn the light on...

Maybe take a Picture of where you are testing your wires. could help with understanding what is going on..

James
 

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Have you verified the drivers door window switches? These things are wired like the light switches on a staircase but with extra wires and so require continuity in all positions of all switches.
 
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