Well, I had a really long post previously with no responses. Thought I would shorten it. Still getting a P0980: Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch "E" Circuit Low on my 2014 Impala Limited LTZ
Has anyone gotten into the transmission valve body and replaced any of those switches? Think I read it involves dropped that front cradle to get the transmission pan off and get to the valve body?
Just trying to decide, with 97,000 miles on the car if it is worth it to try and diagnose and fix that issue or looking at something bigger? Have already cleaned the throttle body and new MAP sensor (also listed as trouble shooting steps, but also had MAP sensor code previously, which has not been back).
Well, I had a really long post previously with no responses. Thought I would shorten it. Still getting a P0980: Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch "E" Circuit Low on my 2014 Impala Limited LTZ
Should be enough room to remove pan and tcm to replace pressure switches. Transgo and Sonnax makes a repair kit to replace the damaged films in the pressure switches.
Has anyone gotten into the transmission valve body and replaced any of those switches? Think I read it involves dropped that front cradle to get the transmission pan off and get to the valve body?
Just trying to decide, with 97,000 miles on the car if it is worth it to try and diagnose and fix that issue or looking at something bigger? Have already cleaned the throttle body and new MAP sensor (also listed as trouble shooting steps, but also had MAP sensor code previously, which has not been back).
I started having a delay when shifting into gear turned out to be the pressure switch laminate discs. Never got any trans codes though. Was able to remove two nuts off drivers trans mount and lift trans with floor jack to remove valve body plastic pan/cover and valve body. Got the parts from Amazon. Was a sonnax kit #124740-TL30 comes with tools to aide installation of laminate discs and seals. Fixed my problem! Most of my switch laminates where burst/broke not allowing the pressure to build and activate the switch.
I might need to do the same thing. I have developed a fairly long lag when changing from reverse to drive, as well as an occasional ugly shift from second to third (or maybe third to fourth...I'll pay closer attention today to find out). Although I had no check engine light, I did scan the car and recall there being a transmission code related to pressure. I'll scan it again and see what comes up. Anything else you had to take off to get that TCM out?
Mine was doing the same thing long lag from park and crappy shifts. I took off air intake and filter housing box just to have a little more room. But besides the drivers trans mount hardware that's it. Took maybe 1-2 hrs.
Mine was doing the same thing long lag from park and crappy shifts. I took off air intake and filter housing box just to have a little more room. But besides the drivers trans mount hardware that's it. Took maybe 1-2 hrs.
Well it has been a while, but I finally got around to doing the pressure switch disks. Overall not a bad job at all. Took me 2-3 hrs, just kind of taking my time making sure I did everything right and didn't miss anything. I would say this is a job you could fairly easily do in a driveway with no special tools required (except the ones provided in the kit).
I did not have to jack the transmission up or mess with an engine/transmission mount at all. First I drained the transmission fluid. Then I removed the airbox, as well as the wiring harness/connection box underneath it (didn't unplug anything, but just so I could shift it around). All the bolts on the cover are accessible from the of the car except 2. The two bottom ones I easily got from the bottom. Once you get the cover off, my advice would be to find a system to keep track of the bolts you take out of the TCM. There are about 10, and they vary in length and size. Take the bolts out, and the three electrical connections and wiggle the TCM out. As for changing the disks, there are plenty of youtube videos of people doing it online. Not hard with the install tools, just take your time and be careful. I ended up having 1 completely blown disk, two that were cracked, and one that was okay. Be careful when removing the TCM to look for any pieces that may fall out. Since mine had a completely blown disk, there was nothing holding the yellow plastic piece that sits under the disks in place. Mine fell out when removing the TCM and I had to look for it under the car. The kits don't come with new ones, so you wouldn't want to lose this. I had ordered new seals for the cover, as well as the electrical connector to the TCM, but I didn't use them as the ones in there looked good.
The car drives so much nicer now. All the little shifting quirks are gone, and it feels like a solid transmission again. I shouldn't have waited so long to do it. I also cleared the code and it has not returned.
Cant think of much else. When you remove your air box you will see it right there. Cover is facing the front of the car on the drivers side. Like I said above, there is a wiring harness/connection box under the air box that I removed the mounting screws for just so I could move it around. Didn't disconnect any wires going to it though. The plastic pieces can't really go anywhere while the TCM is in, so they will either be in the holes like they should be, or they fall out when you lift the TCM out. Just keep an eye out.
I know mine has never set the CEL. And I originally had 2 additional codes. Did new MAP and TB clean and took care off those. None of which have set a CEL.
Ok, those of you that have done this. I have got all the bolts out of the TCM outer cover. Looks like disconnecting this one wire harness all that’s left before wiggling the cover out.
How do I get that connector off? Guessing the gray bar should flip to the right, but I can’t get it to move. Even with the little red piece out.
You are correct. Remove the red tab and pull it right. Looks like you just got a bunch of dirt and grime stuck in it. I would recommend spraying it with brake cleaner in-between bouts of wiggling it back and forth. Such a pain in the ass when something that should be simple like this holds you up. Seems to be how it always goes for me too. Good luck!
I ended up getting it. Red tab out, actually has to use a screwdriver on the left side to help pop it over the two little tan things that were on the right side. Then it went fine and disconnected.
But of a pain, but got it done. The number off bolts for the cover and the TCM part is one of the most frustrating. And I was half way through getting cover of abs finally decided to disconnect the ECM, remove that, move those wire harnesses out of the way. And probably should have removed that black fender support.
I did use the Sonnex kit with the install tools. Definitely recommend those tools. So simple, but made that part easier. 3 of the 4 discs were damaged/blown out on mine. And the metal are under the yellow discs on two were kind of scored. Cleaned that up, put the yellow discs back in, put the new plastic and then rubber seals in and reinstalled. Was time consuming, but not overly hard. Just had to keep going down for sockets that I dropped trying to undo (and redo) all the bolts.
Only have maybe 100 miles on it so far, but night and day difference. Cleared TCM adaptives and made sure no codes before driving. Give it a week or so and check it again. Have the stock tune in it right now. Still deciding if I will put the Trifecta tube back in.
Glad you got it sorted out. I remembered this was the first job I did after getting my battery powered Milwaukee ratchet. Those things are amazing to have in tight spots where you cant get much throw of a normal ratchet.
3/8" I typically almost always go with Fuel stuff, but the head on the fuel was pretty massive. The non-Fuel is probably not as strong, and may not last as long, but it can get into tighter spots better, which is what it is mainly used for so, I went that route.
I had codes P0877 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor / Switch D Circuit Low & P0989 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor / Switch E Circuit Low on my "16 Limited LTZ w/ 127k miles. Did the job in my driveway one Saturday afternoon. I drove it up on some low profile ramps, which allowed for adequate clearance underneath and saving my lower back from strain while working up top. As seen from the attached photos, all of the laminate disks were blown out. The OEM disks are very brittle. The disks in the Sonnex kit seem to be twice as thick. I now have a transmission that shifts like it should.
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