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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I had a really long post previously with no responses. Thought I would shorten it. Still getting a P0980: Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch "E" Circuit Low on my 2014 Impala Limited LTZ

Has anyone gotten into the transmission valve body and replaced any of those switches? Think I read it involves dropped that front cradle to get the transmission pan off and get to the valve body?

Just trying to decide, with 97,000 miles on the car if it is worth it to try and diagnose and fix that issue or looking at something bigger? Have already cleaned the throttle body and new MAP sensor (also listed as trouble shooting steps, but also had MAP sensor code previously, which has not been back).

Thoughts?
 

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Eric, are getting a p0980 and a p0989? May pm member Bart77.
No. Originally I had the P0989, P0160, and P2227. The P0160 and P2227 have not been back since replacing the MAP and cleaning throttle body.

So now only have the P0989. And some weird transmission characteristics at times. Even after clearing the code and the transmission adaptives.




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Well, I had a really long post previously with no responses. Thought I would shorten it. Still getting a P0980: Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch "E" Circuit Low on my 2014 Impala Limited LTZ
Should be enough room to remove pan and tcm to replace pressure switches. Transgo and Sonnax makes a repair kit to replace the damaged films in the pressure switches.

Has anyone gotten into the transmission valve body and replaced any of those switches? Think I read it involves dropped that front cradle to get the transmission pan off and get to the valve body?

Just trying to decide, with 97,000 miles on the car if it is worth it to try and diagnose and fix that issue or looking at something bigger? Have already cleaned the throttle body and new MAP sensor (also listed as trouble shooting steps, but also had MAP sensor code previously, which has not been back).

Thoughts?
 

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I started having a delay when shifting into gear turned out to be the pressure switch laminate discs. Never got any trans codes though. Was able to remove two nuts off drivers trans mount and lift trans with floor jack to remove valve body plastic pan/cover and valve body. Got the parts from Amazon. Was a sonnax kit #124740-TL30 comes with tools to aide installation of laminate discs and seals. Fixed my problem! Most of my switch laminates where burst/broke not allowing the pressure to build and activate the switch.
 

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I started having a delay when shifting into gear turned out to be the pressure switch laminate discs. Never got any trans codes though. Was able to remove two nuts off drivers trans mount and lift trans with floor jack to remove valve body plastic pan/cover and valve body. Got the parts from Amazon. Was a sonnax kit #124740-TL30 comes with tools to aide installation of laminate discs and seals. Fixed my problem! Most of my switch laminates where burst/broke not allowing the pressure to build and activate the switch.
I might need to do the same thing. I have developed a fairly long lag when changing from reverse to drive, as well as an occasional ugly shift from second to third (or maybe third to fourth...I'll pay closer attention today to find out). Although I had no check engine light, I did scan the car and recall there being a transmission code related to pressure. I'll scan it again and see what comes up. Anything else you had to take off to get that TCM out?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I started having a delay when shifting into gear turned out to be the pressure switch laminate discs. Never got any trans codes though. Was able to remove two nuts off drivers trans mount and lift trans with floor jack to remove valve body plastic pan/cover and valve body. Got the parts from Amazon. Was a sonnax kit #124740-TL30 comes with tools to aide installation of laminate discs and seals. Fixed my problem! Most of my switch laminates where burst/broke not allowing the pressure to build and activate the switch.
Thanks for that information and tip. Yes, my research on that code did keep talking about the seals for those switches going bad. Good to hear not as horrible to get in there than I thought.


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I might need to do the same thing. I have developed a fairly long lag when changing from reverse to drive, as well as an occasional ugly shift from second to third (or maybe third to fourth...I'll pay closer attention today to find out). Although I had no check engine light, I did scan the car and recall there being a transmission code related to pressure. I'll scan it again and see what comes up. Anything else you had to take off to get that TCM out?
Mine was doing the same thing long lag from park and crappy shifts. I took off air intake and filter housing box just to have a little more room. But besides the drivers trans mount hardware that's it. Took maybe 1-2 hrs.
 

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Mine was doing the same thing long lag from park and crappy shifts. I took off air intake and filter housing box just to have a little more room. But besides the drivers trans mount hardware that's it. Took maybe 1-2 hrs.
Thanks. Guess I'll order that kit and get to work. Appreciate the info. The code I have stored is P0989 also.
 

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Thanks. Guess I'll order that kit and get to work. Appreciate the info. The code I have stored is P0989 also.
Keep us updated. I won’t be able to do ours any time too soon.


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Well it has been a while, but I finally got around to doing the pressure switch disks. Overall not a bad job at all. Took me 2-3 hrs, just kind of taking my time making sure I did everything right and didn't miss anything. I would say this is a job you could fairly easily do in a driveway with no special tools required (except the ones provided in the kit).

I did not have to jack the transmission up or mess with an engine/transmission mount at all. First I drained the transmission fluid. Then I removed the airbox, as well as the wiring harness/connection box underneath it (didn't unplug anything, but just so I could shift it around). All the bolts on the cover are accessible from the of the car except 2. The two bottom ones I easily got from the bottom. Once you get the cover off, my advice would be to find a system to keep track of the bolts you take out of the TCM. There are about 10, and they vary in length and size. Take the bolts out, and the three electrical connections and wiggle the TCM out. As for changing the disks, there are plenty of youtube videos of people doing it online. Not hard with the install tools, just take your time and be careful. I ended up having 1 completely blown disk, two that were cracked, and one that was okay. Be careful when removing the TCM to look for any pieces that may fall out. Since mine had a completely blown disk, there was nothing holding the yellow plastic piece that sits under the disks in place. Mine fell out when removing the TCM and I had to look for it under the car. The kits don't come with new ones, so you wouldn't want to lose this. I had ordered new seals for the cover, as well as the electrical connector to the TCM, but I didn't use them as the ones in there looked good.

The car drives so much nicer now. All the little shifting quirks are gone, and it feels like a solid transmission again. I shouldn't have waited so long to do it. I also cleared the code and it has not returned.
 

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Well it has been a while, but I finally got around to doing the pressure switch disks. Overall not a bad job at all. Took me 2-3 hrs, just kind of taking my time making sure I did everything right and didn't miss anything. I would say this is a job you could fairly easily do in a driveway with no special tools required (except the ones provided in the kit).

I did not have to jack the transmission up or mess with an engine/transmission mount at all. First I drained the transmission fluid. Then I removed the airbox, as well as the wiring harness/connection box underneath it (didn't unplug anything, but just so I could shift it around). All the bolts on the cover are accessible from the of the car except 2. The two bottom ones I easily got from the bottom. Once you get the cover off, my advice would be to find a system to keep track of the bolts you take out of the TCM. There are about 10, and they vary in length and size. Take the bolts out, and the three electrical connections and wiggle the TCM out. As for changing the disks, there are plenty of youtube videos of people doing it online. Not hard with the install tools, just take your time and be careful. I ended up having 1 completely blown disk, two that were cracked, and one that was okay. Be careful when removing the TCM to look for any pieces that may fall out. Since mine had a completely blown disk, there was nothing holding the yellow plastic piece that sits under the disks in place. Mine fell out when removing the TCM and I had to look for it under the car. The kits don't come with new ones, so you wouldn't want to lose this. I had ordered new seals for the cover, as well as the electrical connector to the TCM, but I didn't use them as the ones in there looked good.

The car drives so much nicer now. All the little shifting quirks are gone, and it feels like a solid transmission again. I shouldn't have waited so long to do it. I also cleared the code and it has not returned.
Thanks for that update and glad to hear it went well!


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Well it has been a while, but I finally got around to doing the pressure switch disks. Overall not a bad job at all. Took me 2-3 hrs, just kind of taking my time making sure I did everything right and didn't miss anything. I would say this is a job you could fairly easily do in a driveway with no special tools required (except the ones provided in the kit).

I did not have to jack the transmission up or mess with an engine/transmission mount at all. First I drained the transmission fluid. Then I removed the airbox, as well as the wiring harness/connection box underneath it (didn't unplug anything, but just so I could shift it around). All the bolts on the cover are accessible from the of the car except 2. The two bottom ones I easily got from the bottom. Once you get the cover off, my advice would be to find a system to keep track of the bolts you take out of the TCM. There are about 10, and they vary in length and size. Take the bolts out, and the three electrical connections and wiggle the TCM out. As for changing the disks, there are plenty of youtube videos of people doing it online. Not hard with the install tools, just take your time and be careful. I ended up having 1 completely blown disk, two that were cracked, and one that was okay. Be careful when removing the TCM to look for any pieces that may fall out. Since mine had a completely blown disk, there was nothing holding the yellow plastic piece that sits under the disks in place. Mine fell out when removing the TCM and I had to look for it under the car. The kits don't come with new ones, so you wouldn't want to lose this. I had ordered new seals for the cover, as well as the electrical connector to the TCM, but I didn't use them as the ones in there looked good.

The car drives so much nicer now. All the little shifting quirks are gone, and it feels like a solid transmission again. I shouldn't have waited so long to do it. I also cleared the code and it has not returned.
Well, it has been a few more months. Everything still running well. Thinking I might finally look at doing this myself. B


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Discussion Starter #15
I'd say go for it. Mine is still shifting well after the repair.
Good to hear. I ordered the Sonnax kit with install tools. Need to pick up some tranny fluid, doing some of the Amsoil Tranny Conditioner. I did go ahead and order the other two seals you got, just in case. Car is up to 102,000 miles now. Better safe than sorry. Hope all my yellow plastic pieces are in there.

Any other install tips? Planning on putting car (all 4 corners) on jacks. Pull airbox and intake tube. Have watched a couple videos on replacing the discs and seals. Anything more on accessing that area? It is on the driver's side of the transmission, facing towards the front of the car?
 
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Cant think of much else. When you remove your air box you will see it right there. Cover is facing the front of the car on the drivers side. Like I said above, there is a wiring harness/connection box under the air box that I removed the mounting screws for just so I could move it around. Didn't disconnect any wires going to it though. The plastic pieces can't really go anywhere while the TCM is in, so they will either be in the holes like they should be, or they fall out when you lift the TCM out. Just keep an eye out.
 

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^ reubenswinks, your stored p0989 had never tripped a cel?
I know mine has never set the CEL. And I originally had 2 additional codes. Did new MAP and TB clean and took care off those. None of which have set a CEL.


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^ reubenswinks, your stored p0989 had never tripped a cel?
Nope. I went a couple months from when I orginally checked and saw the code with a code reader that did TCM codes, to when I fixed it (the code was still present before I reset it) and it never showed a CEL. Probably 10k miles of driving. Not sure why some codes don't seem to trigger a CEL.
 
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