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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
4 qts of trans fluid out and 5 back in after warm up to get the level right, 1 1/4 gallon of coolant out/in, changed the oil and did the spark plugs and shot a short video showing the actual rear COP removal without removing the intake. overall, it was a breeze to do all of it and I had no hiccups. It's like the car was made to be serviced with everything accessible to even my meat clobbers!!

If someone could tell me how to get more of the old coolant out I will add that on my list of things to do on the next trans fluid change in 30k miles. it still looked okay but I don't trust dex cool so I like to replace it every 2/3 years. I've personally seen what it can do to a motor.


I forgot to get pictures of the used plugs but they still had a .40 gap with some ash deposit on the little finger that goes over the electrode, soot on the ring that the finger is on. original plugs though from what it looked like.

all that done at 93,255 miles
 

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I didn't notice when I was under my car doing the trans and oil change, but see if there is a plastic drain on the radiator. If so, then you can use that to drain and fill the coolant. Another option is to remove the heater hose from the core inlet on the firewall and use a Prestone flush tee and power flush it that way.

You only got 4 quarts of trans fluid out? I got just over 5 when I did mine and put back exactly just over 5 and have not had an issue. I did mine a couple of weeks ago and plan to do it again shortly to get the rest of the old fluid out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I didn't notice when I was under my car doing the trans and oil change, but see if there is a plastic drain on the radiator. If so, then you can use that to drain and fill the coolant. Another option is to remove the heater hose from the core inlet on the firewall and use a Prestone flush tee and power flush it that way.

You only got 4 quarts of trans fluid out? I got just over 5 when I did mine and put back exactly just over 5 and have not had an issue. I did mine a couple of weeks ago and plan to do it again shortly to get the rest of the old fluid out.

Searched for and quickly found the drain on the left side of the radiator. the trans fluid may have been do the car being on ramps but on otherwise level ground. when I added the fluid back in and drove for about 40 mins the trans temp was about 178 and I had no fluid on the stick, added 1/2 qt and got it to just touch. added another half and it came up to the hash mark.
 

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Searched for and quickly found the drain on the left side of the radiator. the trans fluid may have been do the car being on ramps but on otherwise level ground. when I added the fluid back in and drove for about 40 mins the trans temp was about 178 and I had no fluid on the stick, added 1/2 qt and got it to just touch. added another half and it came up to the hash mark.
Same thing I experienced... Had the car on ramps and only got 4 qts out... Dropped it down level and got the rest out...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think what I am going to do since my fluid was so dark but not burned or off in smell, is to change out the 4 qts I can get out of it on each oil change till it gets to a satisfactory color of pink. I got just over 5k on the last change when the OLM got to 35%. 5k was enough for me before I couldn't take putting more miles on the oil. then I'll just go to the 30k mile interval on that fluid. I do a lot of high driving each day to work. maybe 8 lights over 42 miles one way all in one spot on one end and the rest in another spot on the other end.
 

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That is kinda my plan with the transmission... I have a very bad taste in my mouth rebuilding the trans in my old GTP twice. It was twice too many times. It is too easy to change the trans fluid on these 6 speeds. I also run 450 miles a week 99% highway so I want the power train to last. I'll do the maintenance... I hope the components hold up.
 

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so out of curiosity is there a reason why the 6 speeds are so hard on trans fluid? is it due to the constant shifting as a result of the two more gears? my 4 speed 2010 ls seems to have a great color each of the 3 times i've done the 50k mile service on the fluid/filter. i know my wife's 2011 cruze with the 1.4 turbo/six speed had dark not burned fluid as well on her first service. just curious on why they're turning the fluid dark so much more than the old 4 speeds?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
so out of curiosity is there a reason why the 6 speeds are so hard on trans fluid? is it due to the constant shifting as a result of the two more gears? my 4 speed 2010 ls seems to have a great color each of the 3 times i've done the 50k mile service on the fluid/filter. i know my wife's 2011 cruze with the 1.4 turbo/six speed had dark not burned fluid as well on her first service. just curious on why they're turning the fluid dark so much more than the old 4 speeds?

yeah, I'd love to know this as well because I have seen cleaner fluid out of 150k mile units. hell, my '97 expedition that I KNOW wasn't serviced properly given it's 2 owner status and 300k miles and that I paid $400 for it had great looking fluid from the day I picked it up.
 

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Easy/cheap to do once a year or every other year. I don't even jack the car. Crawl under the drivers side with 1/4" dr. ratchet, 11mm deepwell and drain pan. Replace with 5qts. Supertech Dexron 6 atf from Wallyworld for ~$4.27/qt. Dexcool is easy to change too w/o gettin' under the car. Slide a drain pan under the passenger side petcock, loosen/remove the coolant cap, loosen/remove the petcock from above and let 'er drain. Hand tighten petcock only. I use a turkey baster to swap out my ps fluid and master cylinder brake fluid. Change oil/filter and rotate tires. Reset olm and tpms. Cabin/pollen filter and engine air filter if needed. I've found all filters are the cheapest from Rockauto online. Git 'er dun, lol!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I don't jack it up for the fluids either, the ramps I got are really easy to use and line up so I use them so that I am able to do a visual inspection while I'm in there
 

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A bit overdue on the trans service on our 12, did not think it had a drain plug until seeing some posts here. How easy is it to get to without having the car on ramps?

I quit rotating my own tires on the impala, walmart did not honor treadlife warranty on the last set of tires I had them put on due to rotation/balancing not done there.
 

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Never mind my previous post, easy enough to get to without raising the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
A bit overdue on the trans service on our 12, did not think it had a drain plug until seeing some posts here. How easy is it to get to without having the car on ramps?

I quit rotating my own tires on the impala, walmart did not honor treadlife warranty on the last set of tires I had them put on due to rotation/balancing not done there.

I have always compared the tread on the tires on how they wear and decide on if I need to rotate or not. the last new set of tires I put on a vehicle went 25k with no rotate and all had even wear. maybe just a slight bit more off the rears first but not enough to bother. I suspect that with the wheelspin I get with the impala I will need to rotate every 10k. It doesn't really matter to me right now since I am not happy with the cheap "milestar" tires that are on here now. depending on where the tire is parked at when stopped at night I will have a wobble at low speeds. wet grip is almost not there.
 

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Being retired, I change oil/filter spring/fall no matter what the mileage. I empty the catch cans at oil changes. I rotate tires once a year at 1 of the oil changes.
 

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I have always compared the tread on the tires on how they wear and decide on if I need to rotate or not. the last new set of tires I put on a vehicle went 25k with no rotate and all had even wear. maybe just a slight bit more off the rears first but not enough to bother. I suspect that with the wheelspin I get with the impala I will need to rotate every 10k. It doesn't really matter to me right now since I am not happy with the cheap "milestar" tires that are on here now. depending on where the tire is parked at when stopped at night I will have a wobble at low speeds. wet grip is almost not there.
Would agree, but if walmart is gonna balance and rotate for free every 5k or when we get them in and they have to have some record of rotating them for the treadlife guarantee of the manufacturer to stand, then I will let them. The uniroyals we put on are supposed to be good to 70k, much better than the factory goodyears. The goodyears these cars came to the dealerships with were garbage.
 
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