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Hello I'm new to the site and I have a 2007 Chevy Impala 3.5l with about 220,000 miles. About a month ago when you take off from a stop it would kind of jerk and I thought it was a CV joints going out and then the jerk turned more into a slip now transmission is slipping in drive. I have been able to drive it around if I manually shift it but it is it is still slipping. I've been trying to find the easiest way to remove and replace the transmission. I'll be doing this in the parking lot of an apartment complex so I need the simplest way to remove and replace by removing the bare minimum. if anybody has experience in this I sure could use your advice thank you in advance for your help. I've seen videos of a guy pulling the engine and motor together from the top or also removing the subframe and lowering from the bottom.
 

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Hello I'm new to the site and I have a 2007 Chevy Impala 3.5l with about 220,000 miles. About a month ago when you take off from a stop it would kind of jerk and I thought it was a CV joints going out and then the jerk turned more into a slip now transmission is slipping in drive. I have been able to drive it around if I manually shift it but it is it is still slipping. I've been trying to find the easiest way to remove and replace the transmission. I'll be doing this in the parking lot of an apartment complex so I need the simplest way to remove and replace by removing the bare minimum. if anybody has experience in this I sure could use your advice thank you in advance for your help. I've seen videos of a guy pulling the engine and motor together from the top or also removing the subframe and lowering from the bottom.
I've not done a 2007, but I've done a couple of 2002's. That's an earlier generation, but should be about the same.

You will need an "engine support fixture" to hold the engine and transmission up after dropping the sub-frame.

The manual calls for separating the control arms from the sub frame. Or, in my case, I took the sub-frame down with the control arms attached. For that, either separate the steering knuckles from the struts, or separate the ball joints from the knuckles, which requires a separator tool. It's probably easier to separate the strut from the knuckle - that makes it easier to remove the axles.

You will need at least 4 jack stands - 2 to hold the front of the car up, and 2 to assist dropping the sub-frame. BE SURE to CHOCK the rears.

You will need a transmission jack for removing the transmission. These can be rented.

You may need a slide hammer to get the axles out of the transmission. This will require an attachment for hooking the axle. Both can be borrowed at parts stores.

I wouldn't try this without a helper. Also, I highly recommend getting a manual, and reading and thoroughly understanding the procedure.

Where I got in trouble was with the one odd-duck bell-housing bolt that goes in from the passenger side, on the firewall side of the engine. A ~30" socket extension is handy for this. The other 5 bell-housing bolts go in from the driver's side. Be sure to note the positions of the bolts with wires attached.

HTH.
Doug

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Discussion Starter #3
I've not done a 2007, but I've done a couple of 2002's. That's an earlier generation, but should be about the same.

You will need an "engine support fixture" to hold the engine and transmission up after dropping the sub-frame.

The manual calls for separating the control arms from the sub frame. Or, in my case, I took the sub-frame down with the control arms attached. For that, either separate the steering knuckles from the struts, or separate the ball joints from the knuckles, which requires a separator tool. It's probably easier to separate the strut from the knuckle - that makes it easier to remove the axles.

You will need at least 4 jack stands - 2 to hold the front of the car up, and 2 to assist dropping the sub-frame. BE SURE to CHOCK the rears.

You will need a transmission jack for removing the transmission. These can be rented.

You may need a slide hammer to get the axles out of the transmission. This will require an attachment for hooking the axle. Both can be borrowed at parts stores.

I wouldn't try this without a helper. Also, I highly recommend getting a manual, and reading and thoroughly understanding the procedure.

Where I got in trouble was with the one odd-duck bell-housing bolt that goes in from the passenger side, on the firewall side of the engine. A ~30" socket extension is handy for this. The other 5 bell-housing bolts go in from the driver's side. Be sure to note the positions of the bolts with wires attached.

HTH.
Doug

.
Thank you very much for for your speedy reply. That is alot of help. I'm gathering the tools to do it. Sounds like it's goin to be a nightmare but I can't afford to have a shop do it. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
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