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Discussion Starter #121
i always enjoy reading up on your mods. and then feel completely lazy for not changing anything on mine after reading up on your mods :p keep up the good work!

the turbo would be a blast....and worth every penny lol


Appreciate you bro :)
 

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Good call on getting those coated they look great!
 

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Discussion Starter #123
I ran a mileage check and ends up I’m getting 26.5 overall. Mostly highway at 70-80 mph and a couple of WOT pulls.
Before I was getting around 24.5. The headers have bumped it by at least 1 mpg if not 2 :)
I will have to do subsequent tests to confirm the accuracy of this measurement but overall a definite mileage increase.
 

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Discussion Starter #124
After seeing some members on here try the Beamtech LED headlights and liking them, I decided to give them a shot. I got a set of 9006 lows off amazon for $37. Installed them Sunday night.
The driver side was perfect. Went right in and lined up great.
The passenger side took a little more work. I’ve posted a pic below to show how the chips should point for the best and most consistent light beam. Basically there are 2 openings in the low beam lens/reflector. The chips need to line up with those. See pic.
The passenger one did not align. So I took the screw out of the base so I could spin the bulb in the base and spun the bulb where I wanted it. Then I marked the base where the tapped screw hole was. Then drilled a new hole for the screw. Now it’s aligned right.
I had other LED headlights that were fan cooled and they did alright. Of course the fan made noise but whatever. These were the 4-sided type. They were bright but they flooded the road to close to me limiting my night vision.
These Beamtechs do much better throwing the light farther out. See before and after pics.
Plus I don’t have a fan noise for 30 seconds after turn off :)
They do get hot, so make sure nothing is touching the heat sinks. I had to cut away part of my headlight for the other fan LEDs to fit, so I can’t say anything dust cover related.

Old LEDs focused on the trees

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Old LEDs focused on the brightest spot

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New LEDs focused on the trees

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New LEDs focused on the bright spot

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How LEDs should line up

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Discussion Starter #125
Wednesday I took a road trip up to northern Michigan and crossed over into the UP for some pics. I believe it is the first time my car has been in the UP so another milestone achieved.
I left around 5 in the morning and took 75 up to 23 where it comes off to Standish. Then I took 23 the whole way up to Mac City. It was really pretty. I caught the sunrise by Oscoda and stopped at a few other places along the way.
After getting to Mac City I went across the bridge for half an hour. Then I came back and stopped at wilderness state park for a few hours spending some time on the beach.
I left there and headed back downstate taking 119/tunnel of trees. This is essentially a one lane road with a lot of twists and turns..again really pretty. Got on 75 at Indian River and got home.
I ended up putting 660 miles on. Car ran great. I’ve been wanting to take this route for a while and now I have. Time to add more routes to the list :)
Pics below

Sunrise in Oscoda

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Car at Bridge View Park in the UP







Going south across the bridge

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Wilderness state park



Tunnel of trees

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Looks like a nice drive!
 

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Discussion Starter #127
I put a new trunk LED in. The one I had was fine but not bright enough. I got the biggest one that would fit from SBL and it is much brighter.
One of my red license plate lights was out, so I ordered a couple of those to fix that.
Also one of the license plate light lenses had a broken screw in it so it was not straight. Got another one of those and installed it.

Trunk before

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Trunk after

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Pic of the LED I had in there

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Pic of new LED I’m using now

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Discussion Starter #128
Since I did my brake upgrade a couple months ago, I couldn’t get the thought of my rusty brake lines out of my head. They were original with 224,000 miles of Michigan roads and rust on them, and I drive pretty aggressively. So I decided I was going to replace them.
I found a company called Inline Tube in Shelby Township, MI, that had pre-bent stainless lines for my Impala. I ordered those, ended up being around $230 out the door.
I looked at the new lines and made sure they fit. All the 3/16 lines were fine but the 2 lines running from MC to ABS pump weren’t anywhere close. So I pulled those lines off a junkyard Impala and took them to Inline to match up. They ended up custom making me those lines for free and they even shipped them to me!! They definitely have a customer for life now :)
Friday the 4th I cut all the lines off and got most of them out. A tip for the knuckle busters here: snip the line at the fitting and then use a socket to get it out. Don’t even try to use a linewrench. It’s not worth it.
When I got the front to rear lines out, I bent them less than 30 degrees and they both snapped. Yeah I was glad I’m doing this :)
Saturday I finished getting all the old lines out and started running the new lines. The pre-bent is awesome, but getting them to go where they need to go requires some bending so they obviously don’t fit like 100% stock. Anyway I spent the better part of 6 hours getting all the lines run.
Also 2 fittings were wrong on the lines coming out of the ABS pump, so I had to cut and flare the right fittings on. Shout out to my bro who brought the hydraulic flare tool from his shop. There is absolutely no reason not to use a tool like that for flaring lines, especially stainless.
I also installed a set of line locks in both front to rear lines. I want to do burnouts easier without setting the parking brake because I have had trouble with that before. The line locks work great and hold the wheels up to 2000 rpm when they start dragging forward. I need to upgrade to GXP rears to take advantage of all my potential holding force.
I have tried a couple burnouts and it works fine but I need to work on my technique. The passenger wheel tends to spin the most, and I know that’s not good for my diff. Anyway that’s the fun stuff :)
Got everything connected except the lines at every wheel. Then I pushed the brake pedal until fluid came out the first line, which is driver front. I connected each line up as fluid came out. Then I bled the brakes.
The system I use for bleeding brakes is simple but requires 2 people. Person 1 sits in the car and pumps the pedal several times till it’s hard. Person 2 is at the farthest wheel and opens the bleeder and shuts it quick before Person 1’s foot goes to the floor. Don’t push the pedal to the floor. Do all 4 wheels like this, starting from farthest to close. You will know when there is air coming out because it will spurt with the fluid when it comes out.
Got them all bled and tested and its awesome! Stops on a dime and better yet, I don’t have brake lines that are about to explode from rust.
Sorry the pics aren’t awesome but that’s all I have at the moment. LMK if you want to see more.
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Discussion Starter #129
My air bag light has been on since I bought the car, which has been 84,000 miles. I took it to a shop a couple years ago and they said that there was no communication with the module.
I ordered a module off eBay and installed it today.
The passenger seat has to be unbolted and moved back to access the module. There are 2 bolts holding the back of the seat in. Take those out and lift the rear of the seat frame up and slide the front out.
When I got down to the module it was apparent that water was the culprit. I don’t have water in there now, but my car was in a flood before I owned it, which explains all the corrosion on the module.
Disconnected both battery leads, touched them together, and waited another 10 minutes before swapping modules. You don’t want the airbags going off unintentionally that’s for sure.
Swapped the modules, connected the battery, started the car and voila, no more air bag light! My seat belt warning light also came on which I had never seen so airbag and seatbelt are connected for sure, no surprise there tho.
Vacuumed everything and put it all back together. Problem solved :)
Pics below. The moisture problem is apparent.

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Discussion Starter #130
Well, the 04 is no more. The night of August 26 I installed an Addco rear sway bar that I waited for 4 months to get, and while testing it on wet roads, went around a corner too fast and rolled it :(
I’m fine, praise the Lord! The car is not. Broken glass, both front doors smashed, both fenders, both rear quarter panels, a-pillars, exhaust ripped off, 1 coilover ripped half off, she’s a goner.
Most of the parts I put on are salvageable, 2 of the coilovers aren’t.
Right now it’s sitting at the house waiting to be parted out while I fix up a Cruze to sell and drive the winter beater.
It had 244,000 miles, had a decent amount of rust, but still ran and drove well. I plan on stripping all the parts I can use, might keep the trans, keep the top end of the motor, all the audio equipment and such is fine.
I also plan on finding a clean Florida 04 same color, LS, etc., to use as my summer car. That will be a year or two down the road.
For now, repping the winter beater, 02 3.8 with 212,000, very rusty, snow tires and such.
Bought that Cruze for $700 the day after I wrecked the 04, needs a trans, pulling it now, and will fix up and sell to get a suburban or something for the sled trailer.
Anyway, I’m still here and still love Impalas, just a little sad, but there’s a reason :)
Stay safe!
Joe
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Well, the 04 is no more. The night of August 26 I installed an Addco rear sway bar that I waited for 4 months to get, and while testing it on wet roads, went around a corner too fast and rolled it /images/ImpalaForums_toucan/smilies/tango_face_sad.png
I’m fine, praise the Lord! The car is not. Broken glass, both front doors smashed, both fenders, both rear quarter panels, a-pillars, exhaust ripped off, 1 coilover ripped half off, she’s a goner.
Most of the parts I put on are salvageable, 2 of the coilovers aren’t.
Right now it’s sitting at the house waiting to be parted out while I fix up a Cruze to sell and drive the winter beater.
It had 244,000 miles, had a decent amount of rust, but still ran and drove well. I plan on stripping all the parts I can use, might keep the trans, keep the top end of the motor, all the audio equipment and such is fine.
I also plan on finding a clean Florida 04 same color, LS, etc., to use as my summer car. That will be a year or two down the road.
For now, repping the winter beater, 02 3.8 with 212,000, very rusty, snow tires and such.
Bought that Cruze for $700 the day after I wrecked the 04, needs a trans, pulling it now, and will fix up and sell to get a suburban or something for the sled trailer.
Anyway, I’m still here and still love Impalas, just a little sad, but there’s a reason /images/ImpalaForums_toucan/smilies/tango_face_smile.png
Stay safe!
Joe
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As much as it sucks to lose the car, we are extremely thankful that you were fine. Can't wait to see the new ride you end up with, and next time you test sway bars, a large empty lot is probably best. Glad you're alive to tell your tale man! Best of luck!
 

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Oh my gosh glad you're okay! Sorry to hear about the car :crying
 

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Nooooooo!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #135
Appreciate all the reply’s guys :)
Much love for all the people here!
 

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Much less excitement for me than 04Imp38 above. About seven years ago I totalled an 06 Taurus with my whole family on board and you do get a sense of how meaningless stuff is when everyone comes through merely shaken by not stirred (no injuries, even though the airbags failed to deploy).
Anyway, just changed the cabin filter for the first time since purchasing my used 2016 LT Limited back in May 2018. The old filter had about 17,000 miles on it and was just nasty. Much easier to do the work than I thought, even for a mechanical noob like myself. I am very frugal, so I always judge everything on whether I can do the work without doing more damage than the $ saved. ALternately, even if I can do the work, is the task such a colossal pain in the ass that even a cheapskate like myself is willing to just pay the $ to someone who knows what they are doing.
 
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