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post #16 of (permalink) Old 12-08-2018 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by plano-doug View Post
The head unit sits on some wood blocks which maintain its position. The fan at right draws air left-to-right to ensure the head unit stays cool. The air ducts are at the bottom and are fed by the half-round sections made from a split paper-roll core. A relay switches the AC power off and on, and is controlled by the switch next to the instrument cluster.

The 10-amp power supply has its own cooling fan. A wrap of gray foam (not shown) goes around the power supply. This forces the supply's fan to draw air in from the front. It is then exhausted out the bottom rear.

In the next pic are some fuzzy dice. You gotta have those on your rear view mirror in Texas

Below that is a shot of the instrument cluster with its dash lights on.

The head unit has four channels, so I built the green enclosures for some old Sanyo "bi-amp" speakers I had in my F-100 back in the 70's

It was a fun project. I hope I didn't spoil my daughter

Doug

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Doug - you did a REALLY nice job with that! Impressive. Love the rear-view mirror and fuzzy dice! :-) VERY original, one-of-a-kind creation! All you need now is a steering wheel (would be cool if it controlled the volume!). ;-)

I'm assuming that your daughter uses it frequently?

Let me know if you are ever interested in upgrading it to a double-din touchscreen device - I think I have an Advent OGM-1 somewhere that works fine all except for the navigation audio mixer (the navi voice doesn't play over music - but that wouldn't matter for something like this)... I have *lots* of "stuff" laying around from when I was selling the GM1010/GM1210's. :-)
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post #17 of (permalink) Old 12-08-2018
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Originally Posted by jtrosky View Post
I was actually surprised how many people have done this - with everything from a toolbox to a cooler!
My oldest daughter asked me to do a cooler. We saw them at many of the sporting events we went to when my kids were still playing ball. They seem to be very popular

Doug

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The whole reason that I was thinking of using some sort of insulation was that it's basically going to be a speaker cabinet. Don't most speaker cabinets have some sort of insulation in the them to help avoid certain types of "reverb" sounds? I just seem to remember seeing that in home speaker cabinets. Maybe it's not a good idea - was just thinking out loud.

Anyone else have any thoughts on that? Am I overthinking the insulation thing since this is not going to be an audiophile-quality speaker system? :-)
The insulation is indeed a standard feature in speaker cabinets. Besides foam rubber, fiberglass (ala home insulation) was often used. I always put some in when I make cabinets.

As I understand it, the insulation is to keep the cabinet from resonating - from rattling. Heavy woods such as MDF and particle board have very low resonant frequencies, hence their common use in speaker cabinets. But both are more prone to cracking and breaking than plywood, which is much more durable, but also more expensive, and not quite as dense.

Plus, you can put a natural finish on plywood, assuming it has a good veneer on it (ie, cabinet grade).

The last cabinets I made, I used egg crate foam. I think it absorbs the sound waves better. I think that's what is used in anechoic chambers.
...
BTW, I bought some large Fisher brand speakers back in the 70's - they had 12" or 15" woofers in them, and had a great price. Alas, they weren't very good - the renowned audio company Fisher was already in decline at the time. Anyway, when I pulled the driver out of one of them, I was amazed to see that, instead of lining the cabinet with the fiberglass insulation, that it had been cut into chunks (maybe 5x5x8 inches) and thrown into the cabinet where it all settled at the bottom. Pretty crappy craftsmanship


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Originally Posted by jtrosky View Post
EDIT: Would something as simple as this work for a power supply? Would be really nice since it's all external as well - very easy to replace if it goes bad. 12v, 10a!
12V, 10A Brick Power Supply
Jim, I'm skeptical. But you might give it a try. 10A is a lot current - I can't help wondering if it's very clean power. It may have lots of noise on it that would ordinarily be filtered out in the next stage (ie, in the PC, etc) but the head unit may not have the necessary filtering/conditioning circuitry, since the 12V in a car has different noise characteristics that the radio is designed for.

The 10A supply I used I got at an electronics shop here in the DFW area, called Tanner's Electronics, in Carrollton. I think I gave about 80 bucks for it.

HTH.

Doug

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post #20 of (permalink) Old 12-08-2018 Thread Starter
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Surprisingly, I've been playing the Eonon "on the bench" with a 12V, 6A power brick and it's been working perfectly. No noise-related issue and 6A even seems to handle the unit fine - but I would go with at least a 10A brick just for a little headroom. I just like the simplicity of the power brick - where I can keep the power supply 100% external of the box (makes it easy to replace too)...

I'll keep testing with it until I get my box made and see how it goes, but so far, I'm happy with it. Doesn't really even get warm, even after hours of continous use. This is like a $10 power brick...
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post #21 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2018 Thread Starter
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So I needed to come up with some actual measurements for this project - espeically since I decided that I'm defintiely going to have a professional create the box (and make the cutouts, etc).

This is what I came up with in MS-Paint. Obviously, not a professional "blueprint", but hopefully it will make things go smoother when I go to get the box made up. This is NOT to "scale" (when I say that, I think of Doc Brown in Back To The Future!). :-)

I kind of want to put *something* in that big blank area above the radio. Thoughts as to what I can put there? Maybe just some engraved design the woodworker comes up with to make it look nicer??

I also moved the tweeters to be centered above the woofers - just looks nicer and saves a little on the box size as well...

Any other thoughts about the overall design of this? Opinions on changes, etc?

Thank you!

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtrosky View Post
I kind of want to put *something* in that big blank area above the radio. Thoughts as to what I can put there? Maybe just some engraved design the woodworker comes up with to make it look nicer??
I'm thinking your smart phone goes there, for when you're playing audio from it. Maybe make a cubby hole for it, or put a little shelf there. Or affix some sort of phone mount in that position (ala the kind used in cars).

Maybe move the radio down a bit to make more room for it. Or move the radio up and put the smart phone space below it.

Or, go to the junk yard and get some A/C controls to mount there, just for looks You can wire up the lights in them to blink with the music

[Edit]BTW, do you already have the speakers? You could go with some 6" coaxes and forego the separate tweeters. That would simplify it and allow you to make it a bit lower in height.

[Edit2]Also, it complicates the cabinet ($$) but you might want to make the backside removable in case you need to get in it to service something.

Doug

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Last edited by plano-doug; 12-12-2018 at 08:24 AM.
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lol a nice 8 inch woofer would fit on the top panel maybe

i'd do a couple of nice heavy duty handles on the side. a cool metal plack with your name over the head unit maybe? or an equalizer/audio level gauge or something. just throwing out ideas.
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wireless phone charger/phone tray on the top panel.
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like doug said, a back panel on a hinge would make life grand when trying to troubleshoot or future upgrades.
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Thanks guys - some great ideas! While I wouldn't normally be using a phone to play back music (since it's already and Android-based unit with full wifi/SD/USB, etc), using a phone *would* come in handy if I ever took the radio somewhere where there is no wifi service - so that's a great idea. Need to figure out the best way to do that - I'm thinking just a very small shelf with an indentation in it to rest the phone in/on.

Doug - yes, I do already have the speakers. It's a set of component Pioneer TS-D1730C 6.75" speakers (a decent set of speakers), which is why I have the tweeters separately. Trying to use what I have here - otherwise, I defintiely would have went with a set of coaxial speakers.

I *definitely* need the back to open/come off to provide access to the insides. Originally, I was thinking of using some of that cardboard-type backing that you sometimes see on older stereos (usually has a bunch of holes in it to let heat out) - but at the same time, that may affect sound quality - so not sure that's the best option. Maybe I'll just have the use the same wood used for the rest of the box, but put the back piece on hinges with some sort of latch at the top.

I appreciate *all* ideas and opinions - so please - don't anyone be shy!! :-)

Need to figure out a good carrying handle solution as well. I don't want the handle to take away from the overall looks too much (I want this to look really nice), so not sure how to handle that yet (no pun intended). :-)

Really looking forward to getting this done... Will be sending my "blueprint" over to the woodworker people soon - have to come up with something for the phone shelf first....

Thanks again!
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handles that might be up your alley.

https://jbfnational.com/recessed-handles-latches
https://us.kompass.com/p/mpr-folding...-a00698f045e7/

i found a search of folding lift handles turned out decent results.
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post #28 of (permalink) Old 01-13-2019 Thread Starter
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Wanted to post an update on my progress...

Per your suggestions, I moved the radio up and added a small shelf that will hold a phone in landscape mode. I put the shelf below the radio because if you had the phone connected to the aux-in headphone jack on the radio I didnt' want the 1/8" aux-in wire hanging down in front of the radio screen. Here is the latest "mock up" of the radio with measurements:



Regarding the box itself, I never heard back from the cabinet maker that asked for more details when I sent him the picture before I added measurements. So I then thought of someone else to make the box. My wife buys these handmade wooden animal "sculptures" from a retired guy that has his own little woodshop behind his house. The wooden animal sculptures he makes have won awards and are simply *stunning*. They are all wood, but you'd swear that there were real feathers on these things - they look so real (she's bought an eagle, a couple of owls and a few blue-birds from him). They are VERY expensive (the amount of time spent making them is crazy), but they are simple awesome. He's also made full-size furniture for himself and other family members. Anyway (got off topic there!), I called him up and he was perfectly willing to make the box for me! So the box is being made now. :-)

About 3 days after I met with him to go over the details for him to start making the box, the cabinet maker finally responded (keep in mind this was like 3 weeks after I sent him the diagram):
Hi Jim,

Sorry I missed your email.* We would be able to take care of your radio box.* Unfortunately no matter how I try pricing this project it gets expensive, I would estimate this taking one of my guys around 5-7 hours at $75 per hour plus material.* So based on that information I would estimate this project to be between $395 - $557 plus tax.

Please let me know if this is something you would like to move forward with one way or the other.
Needless to say, I was NOT willing to spend that much on my wooden box anyway - and I believe his estimate was for an unfinsihed box. :-)

In comparison, the retired guy said it would be $75-$100 + the cost of the lumber - and he will finish the box as well. :-) I *think* he is going to use cherry wood.

Will post pics when I get the box! I told him that I was in absolutley NO hurry and to take his time, so I have no idea when it will be ready. I'd rather him take his time - I'm in no hurry here.
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post #29 of (permalink) Old 01-13-2019
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Console radio

One thought I wanted to share on this, and it may be going on a tangent, but an idea I have that keeps circulating in my head is to use a head unit in a 1930's style console radio cabinet, replacing the radio face in the pic. The mids and tweeters would go in the outboard front panels and the sub in the middle. The +12V power supply(s) would be hidden in the back.

While I like the looks of finished wood, with all the angled cuts and curved surfaces, I wouldn't even consider trying something like what's in the pic. But the idea of having a similarly sized cabinet with a few simple facets such that the front corners are beveled, and the upper front portion tilted up, seems within reach. Still, I'd want to paint it - with all those angles, trying to keep all those joints tight, for staining, would require me throwing away lots of lumber

Anyway, I thought this different approach was worth mentioning

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Hmm - I'm sure my local cabinet maker could make you that style of setup for about $684,129.19 (+ tax) - unfinished, of course...

Just an option. ;-)
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