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post #241 of (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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More on E-torx sockets

I replaced the timing belt on my 2013 Chevy Cruze yesterday, and found I could use some more E-torx sockets. The set I got a while back is not bad, but I wish there was some overlap between the various drive sizes.

There were some recessed E10 screws on the timing belt cover where the ⅜" drive E10 socket, with its wider base, was almost too big and cumbersome to fit. Having a " drive E10 would have been handy.

With standard socket sets, for example, you will usually get a " drive 10mm _and_ a ⅜" drive 10mm. But this E-torx set lacks that overlap. I can see having a couple more pieces in the set being very useful. A ⅜" drive E18 comes to mind.

I'll probably add a " drive E10 to the mix when I get a chance.

The other thing I anticipate is needing to get some impact e-torx sockets. I can see that on the horizon, too

Doug

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post #242 of (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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I picked up a Black 26x22 US General deep top chest and rolling cabinet on sale for around $500 at Harbor Freight just before Labor Day Weekend.
These are much heavier and deeper units than my older 1980's craftsman rollaway toolboxes and they have nicer slides. As heavy as the Snap On cabinets I've seen. It took two people to load and un-load em.

I'm getting a Grizzly G4003 lathe in the next month or so and I'm going to put it on one of the Husky 66" cabinets or a similar US General cabinet with lots of drawers rather than pay the same for a flimsy metal lathe cabinet from Grizzly with almost no tooling storage.

I've been looking at clapped out overpriced old Iron for the last 15 years that I'll be fighting with for years to make just OK. My Monarch Model A was cheap but it's over 110 years old and it's been well loved. I've spent a lot of time fixin the lathe rather than making parts. The drip lube sleeve bearing spindle speeds are more in line with cutting tooling from that time too. When I kick up the spindle speed the headstock bearings get hot.
It's time to have a decent lathe and I'm getting one that's not a project in and of itself. I want to make parts... not fix a "vintage antique lathe". Screw antique. I want to make round things without paying most of the new lathe price and still fighting with an old beat to death machine to do it.

The G4003 has a good old fashioned Norton Gearbox so I don't have to play with the change gears other than for Metric threads. It weighs in at well over 1,000 lbs so it has enough mass to make decent cuts. It has power crosslide, a 36mm spindle hole so it'll take a 5C collet drawtube, and it has a D1-4 camlock spindle rather than the threaded spindles you find on most old US lathes in this size and price range. It has the follow and steady rest that goes with the machine so I don't have to go on a scavenger hunt for overpriced clapped out parts. The three and four jaw chucks might not be the best but I have my Buck and Skinner chucks from my old beat up Monarch model A. I have a buyer for the Monarch that "loves the Antique machine"... The only tooling he's getting is the 12Jarno 5C adapter and dead centre, Armstrong toolpost, and a 10" dog drive faceplate. I'll give him the threaded chuck adapters as well but I'm keeping that 8" Buck 3 jaw and the 10" Skinner 4jaw I brought back from the dead. I hope he doesn't hate me in 6 months... I did point out all the parts that I know need attention and I said I'm not fixin them so I'm not "that guy".
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2009 Impala SS
"Speed never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary... that's what gets you." Jeremy Clarkson

Last edited by hatzie; 4 Weeks Ago at 10:30 PM.
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post #243 of (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Originally Posted by plano-doug View Post
Here's another pic I stole from Facebook that was poking a little fun at Snap-On

Doug

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But hey, the snap on man is sure to give you one of those nice calendars to go along with your purchase. lol Or do they still have those?
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My 6 year constantly asks why. What adults can learn from 5 and 6 year olds, to listen with your ears and mind open. Hard to learn when you don't listen ......
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post #244 of (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Not seeing anything past hatzie's post#240 2 weeks ago???
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post #245 of (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Not seeing anything past hatzie's post#240 2 weeks ago???
Your post comes up as #240 in my feed. Sounds like you got a corrupted page. Maybe re-loading it will help? Or re-starting your browser?

Doug

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post #246 of (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Back on board, lol!
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Not seeing anything past hatzie's post#240 2 weeks ago???
Had the same problem earlier, could not even see the reply I had just made. I was trying to view from the active topics tab, would not load page 17. Just tried from the off topic discussions room and what do you know page 17 and my earlier post showed up.

Forum gremlins strike again????
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My 6 year constantly asks why. What adults can learn from 5 and 6 year olds, to listen with your ears and mind open. Hard to learn when you don't listen ......
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post #248 of (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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^+1. Same with me. Stopped at hatzie's post at the bottom of pg.16. No pg.17 available.
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And Suddenly it's working again. Wonder what's going on...

2009 Impala SS
"Speed never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary... that's what gets you." Jeremy Clarkson
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post #250 of (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plano-doug View Post
I replaced the timing belt on my 2013 Chevy Cruze yesterday, and found I could use some more E-torx sockets. The set I got a while back is not bad, but I wish there was some overlap between the various drive sizes.

There were some recessed E10 screws on the timing belt cover where the ⅜" drive E10 socket, with its wider base, was almost too big and cumbersome to fit. Having a " drive E10 would have been handy.

With standard socket sets, for example, you will usually get a " drive 10mm _and_ a ⅜" drive 10mm. But this E-torx set lacks that overlap. I can see having a couple more pieces in the set being very useful. A ⅜" drive E18 comes to mind.

I'll probably add a " drive E10 to the mix when I get a chance.

The other thing I anticipate is needing to get some impact e-torx sockets. I can see that on the horizon, too

Doug

.
I was finally able to see your post.
I had to get a set for GM seat hold-down bolts and nuts in my 2005 Silverado 3/4 ton.

Are they using these abominations under the vehicles now?

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"Speed never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary... that's what gets you." Jeremy Clarkson
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post #251 of (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hatzie View Post
I was finally able to see your post.
I had to get a set for GM seat hold-down bolts and nuts in my 2005 Silverado 3/4 ton.

Are they using these abominations under the vehicles now?
Well, under the hood, for sure! The fasteners on the timing chain cover and crank pulley were reverse torx.

The mounting bolts for the timing belt tensioner and timing belt idler were regular torx.

The passenger end motor mount bolts were all traditional hex. And the negative battery terminal was still a 10mm hex

The only other socket I used was like a 17mm 12-pt that fit on this odd-duck looking bolt head for relieving the tension in the service belt.

Doug

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^ Doug, which eng. is in your '13 Cruze? Are they all timing belt vs chain?
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Originally Posted by sheila View Post
^ Doug, which eng. is in your '13 Cruze? Are they all timing belt vs chain?
Hi, Sheila,

On the gen1 North American Cruzes, 2011-2016, they had 3 basic engine options. The 1.8 normally aspirated DOHC motors all had timing belts. As I understand it, the 1.4 liter DOHC turbo motors all had chains. Not sure about the diesels. For the current generation, 2016-2019, I think the new 1.4's also have chains.
...
My 1.8 was pretty much the low-tech option on the Cruze, but I'm very pleased with them - we have two. They are still light years ahead of the crappy 4-bangers we had when I began driving back in the 70's. And even better, they seem to have substantially fewer problems than the turbo and diesel options

That said, the LFX-6T70 combo in the recent Impalas is appreciably more durable (IMO). I've dealt with multiple cooling system issues on the Cruzes. Fortunately, I've stayed ahead of all of them, but all it takes is one leak to pop up and ruin a motor with an unknowing kid driving.

Doug

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Last edited by plano-doug; 3 Weeks Ago at 06:43 AM.
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^+1. What is the recommended mileage for a timing belt change and is it a difficult task?
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^+1. What is the recommended mileage for a timing belt change and is it a difficult task?
97,500 miles. Joes74challenger and I were discussing that recently. It's kind of an odd number, but I suppose there's some statistical failure rate number associated with that. Otherwise, surely they would have rounded it to 100k miles. For sure, I did

It's not too bad a task, but it helps to be agile. There were several times I needed to get underneath, then get back topside, and I'm nursing a bad shoulder right now. You quickly realize the added challenge of standing up without being able to rely on your left arm

I now have much more respect for folks living with physical challenges !

I used a timing belt kit that comes with the required new tensioner, tensioner mounting bolt, and idler. But it lacks the required new idler bolt and new crank pulley bolt. Go figure. I picked those 2 up at the dealer.

The trick to getting it over the tensioner was realizing the tensioner had 2 springs in it. You can rotate it ~30 and it feels like you hit a stop. And the belt won't slip over. I tried several tricks to get it to slip over, and employed my wife and daughter to help, but nothing I tried provided enough slack in the belt to get it on the tensioner.

Finally, in frustration, I over-torqued the tensioner only to find another ~30 of rotation, which then allowed the belt to slide on easily. What I was hitting - what I thought was the stop - was actually the 2nd spring engaging inside the tensioner. I wish that had been noted, preferably in bold lettering, somewhere in the instructions!

The other tricky part was installing the cam locking tool. It is two pieces which must be slid in between the two can gears. Again, extra hands are needed. Someone has to be slightly rocking the crank while the other is up top holding the two pieces against the two gears while trying to line them up with each other. You gotta hold your tongue just right

Book time on this is about 2 hours. I probably have 6 times that I was taking my time, taking lots of pics, reading and re-reading the manuals, and making sure I was following the Mechanocratic oath: "First, don't break anything."

But with a couple more go-rounds, I could maybe get it down to 2 hours

Doug

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Last edited by plano-doug; 3 Weeks Ago at 02:06 PM.
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