|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-30-2018 09:20 AM|
|sheila||^ Does this engine have the plug well rubber o-ring seals in the cam cover? If so, may need replaced. With Fords, they come included with a cam cover gasket set.|
|05-29-2018 09:11 PM|
Tackled the plugs yesterday. Wish I would have taken pics of them to share! Not too rough of shape after 100k miles.
I was a little concerned with oil in one of the plug wells.. read a TSB about porous heads causing oil to leak in the spark plug well. Hoping this isn't the case here. It's not throwing any codes so I'll keep driving!
Also surprised that the factory plugs weren't gapped to spec. Measured them all at .038" where as the manual states .043". I cautiously gaped mine to .043".
I was able to sneak in a torque wrench on the rear plugs, using a 6" and a 3?" Extension. Got all 6 torqued without removing the intake manifold.
Running great after the change.
Thanks again crew!
|05-12-2018 03:07 PM|
Originally Posted by SAAN View Post
|05-12-2018 12:33 PM|
My Impala idles like crap evry since I changed the rear 3 plugs a few months ago. I didnt remove the manifold, so Im wondering if there is now a small hose in one of the rubber hoses back by the plugs, but everything looks and feels fine.
I Bought a new plug and put it in the outer cylinder closes to the brake booster and no change, moved that plug to the middle and no change and swapped the #1 plug with the middle plug and no change. Only thing I didnt do was use dielectric grease when changing, but I have reseated the coil packs back there too, so im at a loss now of whats causing this, as my scan tool is not sowing any misfires, so im guessing O2 or a PITA vacuum leak somewhere.
|05-12-2018 11:45 AM|
Originally Posted by sheila View Post
However, there's one thing about using anti-seize that everyone should be aware. Torque specs are almost invariably listed as "dry" numbers, and an adjustment is required for fasteners that are tightened "wet." I've seen 50% offered as the general rule of thumb for the torque reduction, but that seems excessive to me. I usually reduce the torque by 30%, and have never had an issue.
Originally Posted by Fred9505 View Post
Always let those aluminum heads cool down a little before pulling the old plugs. Aluminum has a higher coefficient of expansion than steel, so you risk buggering up the threads if you remove the plugs while the head is still really hot.
|05-12-2018 09:53 AM|
|sheila||^ That's what she said, lol!!!|
|05-11-2018 11:20 PM|
|Fred9505||a short piece of 3/8" hose and insert the plug cap into the hose and then hand thread those plugs into the aluminum heads. Engine must be cold.|
|05-11-2018 08:37 PM|
|sheila||^+1 on the great video! Only things I'd add: Dab of never-seize on the plug threads, dielectric grease applied inside the boots with a small screwdriver or cotton swab and instead of dropping the new gapped plugs down in the plug hole, I insert them into a scrap piece of 3/8" hose and gently position and start them by hand with the hose attached. When plug is started, hose will stop or slip. Pull hose off and tighten with ratchet, extension and plug socket.|
|05-11-2018 06:13 PM|
|mdubyk||@Tesla: Great video!|
|05-11-2018 02:50 PM|
For those, like myself, who like a little more detail, here's an 8-minute in-depth video ...
|05-11-2018 02:37 PM|
Originally Posted by WickedGoat View Post
|05-11-2018 09:50 AM|
Originally Posted by jtrosky View Post
I used autolite plugs for mine, gap was called for being .040 and went to tight to feel rather than attempting to use torque wrench. Dialectric for boot, but did not use any antiseize on the threads.
|05-11-2018 09:05 AM|
|sheila||^ Fwiw, I always dab the plug threads with a 'lil anti-seize and boots with dielectric grease.|
|05-11-2018 06:39 AM|
Originally Posted by mwilson62000 View Post
|05-11-2018 05:27 AM|
|1999 White C5 Coupe||
Originally Posted by MarkTN View Post
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