Chevy Impala Forums - Reply to Topic
Chevy Impala 8th Gen Discussion W-Body 2006-2013 (2014+ Limited). Discuss all Chevy Impala 8th Generation Performance and Technical Discussion here.

Thread: Front Defrost problems Reply to Thread
Title:
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:
 

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Chevy Impala Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










  Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

  Topic Review (Newest First)
10-30-2019 04:06 PM
brj319 I also have a 2013 LTZ, but I tried and it did not work. I had already replaced the pass side actuator, so I then tried with the car running. I then turned the vehicle off and restarted. VOILA!!! I have dashboard air blowing again! Thanks All!!!
03-28-2019 06:04 PM
kamikazeedriver I got it.
I pulled the display fuse, waited a min.
Started car, waited a min.
Turned off car, waited a min.
Put fuse back in, waited a min.
Started car up, actuators began calibration.
Tested for air from front defrost vent, like a desert wind!

Thanks for the info yall.
03-27-2019 08:11 PM
kamikazeedriver
Quote:
Originally Posted by JDKImpala13 View Post
I had the same thing happen on my 2013 Chevy Impala LT with a 3.6L, I did the same steps as above with the exception being the 2013 does not have the HVAC fuses. On a 2013 you need to pull the fuse for the "Display", you will see it marked on the fuse box cover under the hood of the car. I turned off the HVAC blower, pulled the fuse, waited 5-10 minutes, reinstalled the fuse and turned the ignition to ACC. At first it did not work, I did not hear the actuators resetting themselves, then once I actually started the car I could hear the actuators resetting and everything worked fine.

Thank you all for the help, glad I checked out this site.
Little confused. Are you pulling the fuse while the car is running. Normally, I would assume not, but you mention you turned off the HVAC blower, which would be off already if the car was not running.
03-27-2019 05:05 AM
kamikazeedriver My 2013 ltz just did this exact thing this morning.
This thread is full of good info. Will look into doing these this weekend. Will update my results.
Thanks everyone.
03-02-2019 05:41 AM
liamwatson Nice information. . .
02-14-2019 09:45 AM
HOTLAP Years ago I had a mechanic tell me never to change the outlets (defrost/dash vent/heat) with the blower motor on high, the fast moving air flow creates high loads on the actuators and can cause them to fail.
I always turn the fan down then change the air direction then turn the fan back up, don't know if it really helps but I've never had an actuator failure in this car or other previous cars some of which are known to have actuators commonly fail.
02-07-2019 07:14 PM
sheila Seems to only work for the mode (vent) actuator?
02-07-2019 06:48 PM
gkeeney1 Just had the same problem with my 2011 Impala and fixed the issue. Thanks you so much, saved a lot of money if I’d have had to bring it into the shop.
08-28-2018 09:13 PM
ckhuckabe Dude, you're a fricking genius! Had the same issue with my 2013 Impala, tried your fix, and it worked like a charm!
10-25-2017 03:21 PM
JDKImpala13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmac90 View Post
Hi guys. I have a 2008 chevy Impala LT with the 3.9L engine. This morning I woke up to a foggy morning. Used my remote to start the car early so the Windows would be clear when I got in it. As I was walking to the car I noticed the Windows were not clear. After investigating for a minute , playing with the selector switch , that the only thing not working was the front defroster? It blows out of the vents and at my feet. When the switch selector is in the defrost position it blows at my feet? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
I had the same thing happen on my 2013 Chevy Impala LT with a 3.6L, I did the same steps as above with the exception being the 2013 does not have the HVAC fuses. On a 2013 you need to pull the fuse for the "Display", you will see it marked on the fuse box cover under the hood of the car. I turned off the HVAC blower, pulled the fuse, waited 5-10 minutes, reinstalled the fuse and turned the ignition to ACC. At first it did not work, I did not hear the actuators resetting themselves, then once I actually started the car I could hear the actuators resetting and everything worked fine.

Thank you all for the help, glad I checked out this site.
09-16-2015 03:08 PM
plano-doug
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtrosky View Post
But why would the need to be relearned in the first place? I'm just wondering if doing this is really just a band-aid (and the problem will come back) or if there is a valid reason for someone to need to do this if the actuator is working properly.
If somehow some crud got into the ducts and made its way to the damper, then it could be causing it to stick. The controller circuit monitors the current flowing to the actuator motor. If it see the current jump, it assumes the motor has stalled because it has reached its designed limit travel, and stops driving it, thinking the damper is all the way open (or all the way closed).

A sticky damper will make the controller think it's at the limit when it's not. The stickiness can be a function of temperature. It might stick more on a cold day, for example. So relearning might be a temporary fix until the next cold day comes along.

That said, the actuator's probably bad. But there are indeed other possible causes besides that.

Doug

.
09-16-2015 11:28 AM
jtrosky
Quote:
Originally Posted by plano-doug View Post
The actuator isn't really getting reset. The software in the A/C controls is relearning the stop points (at each end of travel) for the actuator.

Doug

.
Thanks.

But why would the need to be relearned in the first place? I'm just wondering if doing this is really just a band-aid (and the problem will come back) or if there is a valid reason for someone to need to do this if the actuator is working properly.

Sent from my HP SlateBook 10 x2 PC using Tapatalk 2
09-16-2015 10:47 AM
RShea There are a few different threads on here about the actuator door motors. It is a common problem if you hear clicking sound in say heat mode only, or if one of the areas does not get any air blowing at all. I test drove a used 07 that had clicking sound and was considering purchasing it. But I did the actuator search on here and found the mentions of the part numbers and Youtube video links replacement on the access through the glove box to get to the motors. I'd do the reset steps first since there are no parts to purchase, if that did not help then I'd get the motor. If there is no clicking then, it still could be a motor problem but could be other issues too (less likely would be a blocked vent, etc.)
09-16-2015 10:33 AM
plano-doug
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtrosky View Post
Kinda curious - why would an actuator ever need to be "reset" to begin with? It it really just an early sign that the actuator is failing?
The actuator isn't really getting reset. The software in the A/C controls is relearning the stop points (at each end of travel) for the actuator.

Doug

.
09-16-2015 09:03 AM
jtrosky Kinda curious - why would an actuator ever need to be "reset" to begin with? It it really just an early sign that the actuator is failing?

Sent from my HP SlateBook 10 x2 PC using Tapatalk 2
This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome