Won't Start Gauges Move After Key Taken Out - Chevy Impala Forums
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Won't Start Gauges Move After Key Taken Out

The other day I took my 03 Impala for an oil change. Left and the car was fine. Tried to start it the next day and it would start. No clicking and all electrical (lights, dash etc) worked but would stop after turning the key to start.

Once I take the key out, the gauges, radio and all electronics stuff flicker. The only way I could make it stop was repeatedly pushing the brakes.

Any ideas on how to get it going to get it to the shop?

PS... The sound at the end of the video is after the key was taken out of the ignition. https://youtu.be/Sz8I6i4JhXk
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Originally Posted by Robertupland View Post
The other day I took my 03 Impala for an oil change. Left and the car was fine. Tried to start it the next day and it would start. No clicking and all electrical (lights, dash etc) worked but would stop after turning the key to start.

Once I take the key out, the gauges, radio and all electronics stuff flicker. The only way I could make it stop was repeatedly pushing the brakes.

Any ideas on how to get it going to get it to the shop?

PS... The sound at the end of the video is after the key was taken out of the ignition. https://youtu.be/Sz8I6i4JhXk
How old is the battery? I'm thinking yours may have failed. Can you jump start it? Or maybe put a charger on it for a while, then try starting it (with the charger DIS-connected)?

If you can get the car to Walmart or a parts store, they can test the battery and determine its status. Otherwise, you may need to remove the battery and have someone take you and the battery to the store.

Keep in mind, the typical battery test needs the battery to be charged, so, if you cannot charge it, you will have to leave it at the store while they charge it before they test it. Probably talking a few extra hours.

Doug

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You think a bad battery would cause it to make that noise after the car is shut off and the key is taken out?
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Originally Posted by Robertupland View Post
You think a bad battery would cause it to make that noise after the car is shut off and the key is taken out?
From the video, I can't really tell when the key is being turned or inserted/extracted. But I do hear a sound which I've heard before when I had a weak battery.

That said, the other thought that occurs, if you're still hearing electrical noises (ie, solenoids, actuators, etc) after key removal, is that perhaps your ignition switch is going bad.

Can you take another video with the ignition in the frame? Turn the camera 90 so you can get both the instrument cluster and ignition in the frame. Try to keep everything else very quiet so only the car noise is being picked up. Maybe take the key off the ring so no noise is coming off the key chain.

Doug

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Thanks for responding, Doug. This video shows a little more of what uts doing. https://youtu.be/HGA6jBUtu9c
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Originally Posted by Robertupland View Post
Thanks for responding, Doug. This video shows a little more of what uts doing. https://youtu.be/HGA6jBUtu9c
I think I've previously heard that "shhhhhh-shhhhh" sound after key-off, but I can't swear to that. But when I've heard it, I usually had a dead battery.

There's a circuit in these cars that keeps some stuff alive briefly after key-off, so there is an explanation besides bad ignition switch.

A weak or nearly dead battery can still power lots of dash lights and other small loads, but will then do nothing when the key is turned to crank.

I would focus on the battery until you can rule it out, since it's typically the cause of no-start conditions. If you can get it jumped or charged, that's where to start.

BTW, you can pry the covers off the battery and inspect inside to see if it still has liquid in all 6 sections. You're supposed to put de-ionized (distilled) water in them, but tap water will do in a pinch, if it's low. And, if that's the case, it's very likely time for a new battery anyway.

HTH.

Doug

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I tried to jump it but no luck. It did attempt to start though which it wasn't doing before.

Also when it was hooked to the other car, the gauge problem stopped. As soon as I unhooked the jumper cables, it started again.

I'll take the battery to get tested tomorrow.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robertupland View Post
I tried to jump it but no luck. It did attempt to start though which it wasn't doing before.

Also when it was hooked to the other car, the gauge problem stopped. As soon as I unhooked the jumper cables, it started again.

I'll take the battery to get tested tomorrow.
Agree with Doug on the battery. Sounds like a dead cell in the battery. Fwiw if you take it to walmart they are probably gonna tell you they need to charge the battery for 30 minutes before they can load test it. Not sure why they started this, but here the past few times I have taken batteries in they have told me that, battery voltage was too low at 12.58 volts on one I took in a couple weeks ago to load test.
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Originally Posted by 12 lt View Post
...they are probably gonna tell you they need to charge the battery for 30 minutes before they can load test it. Not sure why they started this...
They probably got push-back from their battery supplier. If they're doing a warranty return, they're probably dinging the manufacturer (eg, Exide) for at least part of the cost.

For sure, some of the batteries go back to the manufacturer for failure analysis. If the guys in the failure lab find them to be good after charging, then they're not gonna credit Walmart the cost.

I suspect the two companies had a little pow-wow and determined Walmart wasn't properly testing the failed batteries - ie, they weren't making sure they were adequately charged for the load test.

In my work, I've seen good chips come back for failure analysis - somebody wasn't using them correctly - so I'm sure it can happen with batteries, too.

FWIW, it seems like, on several occasions, when I took a battery in for testing, whether at Walmart or at Autozone, they would mention the need for it to be charged. So it seems to be well understood.

What probably happened is that the guys at the Walmart counter were getting lazy - or just trying to be nice - and swapping out good batteries under warranty, and the manufacturer finally put their foot down resulting in more stringent load testing procedures.

Doug

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Last edited by plano-doug; 4 Weeks Ago at 02:29 AM.
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...they are probably gonna tell you they need to charge the battery for 30 minutes before they can load test it. Not sure why they started this...
When doing a load test the battery must be fully charged (then remove the surface charge) prior to applying the load to determine if the CCA's are being maintained. Testing weak or overcharged batteries will give false test results.
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Don't recall walmart ever having to charge a battery before testing it prior to last year, but makes sense that the battery should be charged in order to properly test it. In most situations a battery coming out of a car, SHOULD be charged unless the charging circuit has issues or unless the owner ran it down trying to start their vehicle. In the case of the most recent I mentioned it was not a warranty issue, the battery was 9 years old and had been on a 47 hp farm tractor. In an effort to get the tractor started and moved from behind another vehicle I had actually had that battery on my 1000 amp starter and it would barely roll over my tractor, on my big ac charger with a 200 amp start it would barely even click. Went from starting fine the morning it died to 2 hours later nothing from the starting circuit, but would still light the aftermarket led lights.
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