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Good evening!
I'm from the Canton area probably about 30 minutes from Detroit.
Probably a good idea to just go ahead and replace 'em all. (the solenoids) Since it's a daily driver, I've been considering buying a rebuilt trans from like A1 Cardone, taking it to a shop, and renting a car to drive back an forth for a day or two. I would hate to have someone else work on it, but since I can't just occasionally work on it in my driveway, and work doesn't allow me to have enough time to do the project at home, it's probably my only choice if I wanna get it done fast.
Thanks for the recommendation!

Clunking up front could be the front swaybar. If it's cracked or broken replace it with the Dorman 927-100 and Moog Poly end links.
I seem to remember a TSB or PIC on gas tank mounting causing a rear end clunk. Could be the swaybar too... Moving up to the FE3 15mm swaybar or an Addco 639 18mm and Moog Endlinks will not make the ride any stiffer but it will flatten it out some on corners.
Transmission:
The slamming is still intermittent. Before you replace the transmission do the magnet replacement TSB and add a transmission cooler.
GM TSB 08-07-30-040C
You can also replace the solenoids but you have to drop the LH end of the engine cradle... The side cover gasket is a reusable part. If you're doing the steering shaft you're probably already in there.
You really want the trans temps down lower than the engine coolant temp. 210°F is too darn high. You want the temps in the 160°-180°F range. This requires that you install an aux transmission cooler.
There are a couple threads on using the 9C1 9C3 cop car transmission coolers and hoses. The Delco coolers use the GM Jiffy-Tite cooler fittings and the whole shebang bolts up. Really too bad this wasn't available as a dealer installed option.
New from AC Delco 9Cx coolers are usually between $100 & $200. I have seen them as cheap as $35 from Delco tho.
I used the 2012 rad to AUX Cooler line and the cooler output half of the 2012 AUX Cooler to trans line.
I used a Magnefine 3/8" transmission filter to splice the 2012 AUX return to the 2009 4T65E return line with SAE J1019 trans cooler hose and four spring band clamps.
This thread has some discussion with the various part numbers and the GM parts books exploded views of both the 06-11 4T65E & 12-16 6T75 systems.
https://www.impalaforums.com/8th-gen-...mpala-ltz.html
The Hayden LPD and other aftermarket coolers will need brackets fabbed and you'll need to run a section of SAE J1019 Trans cooler hose and spring band clamps to couple it to some kind of line that mates with the transmission and radiator.
You could form 3/8" steel line with a Mastercool Hydraulic Flare Tool and the 3/8" GM Jiffy-Tite trans line dies or chop up a set of GM aluminum lines. I'd roll a bead at the aftermarket cooler end of the lines to keep the hose in place.
Brakes:
There are two possible issues at work on your brakes. Either they really are developing hard spots from thermal damage or the hubs are not running perfectly perpendicular to the splined center hole... excessive hub runout... or both.
If it's heat you can replace the front brakes with the much larger 2012 cop brakes and install the cop dust shield in place of the civilian part.
This is the GM service bulletin on replacing the dust shields.
PIC5268C
This is one of the 12.7" 2012-2016 cop brakes thread.
https://www.impalaforums.com/8th-gen-...ers-parts.html
Here's the one with a bunch of discussion.
https://www.impalaforums.com/8th-gen-...rake-info.html
Here's a post on a Chevy forum about using Raybestos Brake-Align shim plates to correct hub runout.
The article he cites is spread across two GM Tech-Link magazines about two years apart. You can download the original magazines here if the GM Tech-Link site no longer has them in the archive.
http://www.mediafire.com/folder/206j.../Impala_Brakes