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post #16 of (permalink) Old 12-16-2014
LA1
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This thread is using my name blasphemously... :-)

..the court case of the century... was the thread created before you joined or did you join before the thread was created = ]
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post #17 of (permalink) Old 12-17-2014
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Thread began in July 2014, Toolbox joined November 2014. Case closed, court adjourned.

~Jeff
*2001 Impala Ls - 141k
Precision 6262 Turbo, ZZP Z3, Tial wastegate and BOV, CXRacing intercooler, ZZP 3" turbo-back w/ muffler delete, Bosch 42.5# Injectors, Bosch fuel pump, CTS-V Brembos, Stainless lines, BC Racing coilovers, Dorman solid sway bar, BMR trailing arms, SPEC-D LED headlights, LED heads and fogs, Quad tails, C5 reverse lights, All LED interior, LED 6 gauge cluster retrofit, LED puddle lights, LED underglow, Debadged, Painted emblems, Color-matched trim, Wrapped dash & door trim, Kenwood DDX271, Polk Audio dxi6500 components, Polk Audio db690, Hifonics GLX100.4, 2x Polk Audio db1240 in custom box, Hifonics ZRX1800.1D, KMC District, Nitto NT555G2, SS tail covers, SS spoiler, SS Lip, 20% tint, Black mesh grille

*1999 Escalade - 150k
Winter daily on 22s

*2001 Dakota - 99k
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*2014 Impala LT Limited - 65k
"Dad's ride"

*1992 Caprice Wagon - Sold @ 195k
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post #18 of (permalink) Old 12-17-2014 Thread Starter
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Have to make sure Todd does not file an appeal on his behalf. (I hear he does pro bono work)
30 days is ticking.

Some things are better left unsaid, which I generally realize right after I have said them.
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post #19 of (permalink) Old 04-01-2015
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Powerprobe 3 master combo kit. One of those very expensive tools that you stare at every time you open your toolbox and ask what you were thinking when you bought it. That is until you use it then you wonder how you ever managed without it.

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post #20 of (permalink) Old 10-24-2015
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I know the picture shows a 5/8" one but the 5/16" one is a MUST for those ASS-NINE side post GM batteries.....on mine the PD Maintenance people adapted the battery cables to the traditional top post battery thank you very much!

2006 Impala 9C1
Lund in channel vent visors
Interior LED kit
Trunk LED strip
Comming soon a Pioneer Nav Sound System w/ back up camera
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post #21 of (permalink) Old 10-25-2015 Thread Starter
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The Gear Wrenches are a great addition to your tool box. I bought a set of SAE and Metric ones a number of years ago. I use them often. Down side is the boxed ends are a bit bulky to get into some tighter spots. I do not use them on really tight nuts/bolts. The micro ratchets in the boxed end are not all that robust. I use a conventional combo wrench (with cheater is necesary) to brake it loose and then switch over.
Definite handy assets to have.
They make a stubby set as well.

Some things are better left unsaid, which I generally realize right after I have said them.
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post #22 of (permalink) Old 04-03-2016 Thread Starter
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Here are some of my newest acquisitions. ( in last 6 months )

Y'all have to realize the prices shown are through amazon.ca and reflect the Canadian peso and the fact that we get ripped on a lot of automotive parts and accessories as well as tools.

The battery tester works awesome. Much better than a load tester and simple volt meter. It will tell you what the CCA's are left in your battery and if it should be replaced. I have a load tester and the battery in the T&C van passed the load test. It showed the proper voltage, however was only holding a "surface charge" and 15 minutes with the door open and the interior lights on and it was a no start. Tested it with this thing once it arrived and found out it only had 350 CCA's left and it was supposed to have 750.
I have since used it on the Impala and my Nissan Diesel truck. I thought the impala sounded a bit "labored" when cranking one cold morning in the garage and tested it. Gave a yellow light to recharge and test again. I did and again yellow light and 550CCA's. I bought a new battery for it as well.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I got the radiator pressure testing thing and it works as advertised. Very handy for finding those pesky water pump mechanical seal leaks that don't readily show themselves. ( again I wish I could buy at US prices )
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These pliers are friggen awesome. I actually got them from Princess Auto
(much like harbor freight) for less than they are shown on the amazon ad.

I just did a job on the T&C van heating system where I had a gazillion of those damned clamps to take off in tight spaces. I had them all off in 10 minutes. Great idea and work awesome
https://www.amazon.ca/SUPERCRAZY-Fle...e+clamp+pliers

Used this in conjunction with my AirLift (as mentioned on page 1 of this topic ). Again I purchased this from Princess Auto for 22.00 I think. Worked really well for me to monitor when the thermostat was opening and letting the smaller bubbles out etc.
https://www.amazon.ca/Lisle-24680-Sp...eywords=Funnel

If you search them on Amazon.com or in harbor freight or wherever Y'all get your tools etc you will see the price difference. I can certainly order from some of these places but have to add near 30% on the $$ and pay for shipping where you do not have to and even if they will ship for "Free" to Canada those rotten bastards at UPS will charge you brokerage and customs fees before they take it off the truck. Usually these fees exceed the price of what it is you bought.
blah blah blah.

Anyway
New tools that all work great.

Some things are better left unsaid, which I generally realize right after I have said them.

Last edited by retiredpauly; 04-03-2016 at 07:12 AM. Reason: Spelling
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post #23 of (permalink) Old 04-07-2016
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I got my cable hose clamp tool off the Matco truck. Those things are a life saver some times.

I wouldnt be without my spill free funnel as well. I think I got mine from Carquest for about $20
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post #24 of (permalink) Old 04-08-2016
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Figured I'd add this over here... DIY Spark Tester

There is an easier and safer way to testing for spark than using a screw driver or pulling a plug and holding it near a ground. If you have an extra plug wire and a small section of clear tubing (about 1/4" ID or so and 1" in length) that the plug wire will slide into, you can make one in just a few minutes and you won't need a helper to turn the key while you're messing with a plug wire. I recommend using the longest plug wire you have for the best chance of seeing the window regardless of which cylinder you're testing. Basically, cut the boot back on the end that goes to the distributor cap so that the metal piece and insulator that slides into the cap is exposed. This end will snap firmly into a plug wire you have installed on the engine after you pull it from a spark plug. Cut the wire in half and insert both ends into the clear tubing, leaving a 1/4" gap between the two cut ends. This creates an insulated window to view "spark". Snap the unmolested wire end onto the spark plug that is installed in the engine. Position the "window" so you can see it under your opened hood while sitting in the car. Crank the ignition and if the car has spark, you will see it in the window you made and will be able to tell if it's strong or weak.


96 Impala SS - Powerdyne supercharger, Comp Cams 1.6 Ultra-Golds & top-end kit, Clear Image TRI-Y ceramic coated headers, Accel ignition, BBK 58mm TB, SVO injectors, March Serpentine, PCM4Less (dyno tuned), Hurst Roll Control, Borla SS full exhaust, Stage II trans TCI Streetfighter, Inland Empire aluminum driveshaft, Eaton 3:42 Posi, Hotchkis suspension and sway bars, Bilstien shocks - Faster than a Honda with a fart can

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post #26 of (permalink) Old 03-23-2017 Thread Starter
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Bought some of this stuff yesterday to fix something I buggered up.

Q-Bond ? Quick Bonding Ultra Strong Adhesive and Filling Powders

Works awesome !

I finally got around to replacing those damned roof mouldings on my Impala. I harvested a pair of them from a wreck at Pick and Pull a month ago. ( $11.00 ea. ) The "applique" that I applied to the OE ones just looked cheesy to me and it's bugged me for years.
Long story even more boring I was removing the OE ones and ended up pulling one of the retaining finger clip thingies that is glued to the roof off. It holds the end of that moulding in place. "F" bomb used.
Bought this Q bond stuff. Cleaned out the spot where I pulled the clip from. Placed it back in its spot, sprinkled a tiny bit of the "Black" powder on both of it's little feet and applied the liquid. It was set in 10 seconds and will not budge. In fact, it's more secure there than the one at the other end that is just held in place under the adhesive.

YAY !

Some things are better left unsaid, which I generally realize right after I have said them.
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post #27 of (permalink) Old 03-31-2017 Thread Starter
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New tool

This is awesome
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Some things are better left unsaid, which I generally realize right after I have said them.
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