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Ultimate Speaker Replacement Guide for 8th Gen Impala (2006-2013)

This guide will give you all of the details needed in order to replace the stock speakers (front door speakers and rear deck speakers) in the 8th generation Chevrolet Impala. I put this guide together to help save other people some of the frustration that I experienced when replacing the speakers in my 2012 Impala LT. I refer to the “Crutchfield MasterSheet” for the bulk of the process below (why re-invent the wheel!?) – it can be downloaded from here (as of 2/5/2014):
http://www.mediafire.com/view/cwnapz...eplacement.pdf
]


I. General Speaker Information

[*]Front door speakers (6.5” / 6.75")
The front door speakers in the Impala are secured to the door frame with a speaker bracket that is molded directly “around” the stock speakers. The speaker and speaker bracket are one single piece and cannot be separated. Because of this, you need to purchase a set of speaker brackets in order to replace the stock speakers. Scosche makes and sells a bracket specifically for this purpose (Scosche SAGMHR-634 Speaker Mounting Brackets), but I found the quality of these brackets to be less than optimal. After some research, I ended up finding that you can purchase an inexpensive set of 2006-2009 Hummer H3 stock speakers (Part #: 22696040) and use the brackets that come with them for your aftermarket speakers for the Impala front doors. The Hummer speakers are the exact same thing as the stock Impala speakers except that you can actually separate the speaker and the speaker brackets and then re-use the speaker brackets to install aftermarket speakers in the front door of your Impala. The brackets from these Hummer H3 speakers are of *much* higher quality than the Scosche speaker brackets. I found a pair of brand new stock Hummer H3 speakers for $30 shipped (in comparison, the Scosche speaker brackets cost $10-$12 for the set). I bought the speakers from this Ebay auction (still available as of 2/5/2014):
GM Rear Speaker Chevrolet Hummer H3 2006 2009 | eBay
Crutchfield gives you the Scosche brackets for “free” if you order your speakers from them – although, Crutchfield usually overcharges for the speakers to begin with, so in the end, they really aren’t “free” in my opinion! Also, the door panels *must* be removed in order to remove and re-install the door speakers – the speaker grill is *not* removable.

[*]Rear deck speakers (6”x9”)
The rear deck speakers in the Impala are also secured to the rear deck with a speaker bracket – however, unlike the front door speakers, the rear deck speaker brackets are separate from the speaker themselves and can be re-used for aftermarket speakers without modification. However, the rear deck speakers *cannot* be removed without removing the entire back seat (seat bottoms *and* seat backs), the “sail panels” on each side of the car, as well as the entire rear deck itself. The speakers *cannot* be replaced from the trunk like most vehicles and the stock speaker grills *cannot* be removed (they are riveted in place)! Needless to say, replacing the rear-deck speakers is very time consuming and will take an entire afternoon to complete the job.

II. Front door speaker installation procedure
Note: I’d recommend that you have some replacement door-panel retaining clips on-hand before starting this process as there is a good chance that one of them will break during the removal procedure. You can get (15) of these retainers on-line for about $15 shipped. You can also get them from a GM dealer for a low, low price of $5.50 *each* (ask me how I know!). Part # for the retaining clips is: 11519031. Here is a link to a website that sells the retainer clips:
GM Door Panel Retainer W/ Sealer White Nylon
1. Refer to the Crutchfield MasterSheet for detailed instructions on removing the front door speakers. For Step 5 in the MasterSheet, I found that the following YouTube video shows the easiest way to actually remove the door panel without the need of a special door-panel removal tool. I actually have this tool, but found that the method shown in the video was a lot easier. Here is a link to a YouTube video that shows the entire process:
2. Once the door panel is completely removed from the car, there is a single screw holding the speaker bracket in place. Remove that screw and then the speaker will pull right out (pull the top out and then pull the whole speaker “up” and it will come right out). You then need to disconnect the speaker wire and a little “retainer” that holds the wire to the speaker bracket.

3. Once the speaker is removed, you’ll need to cut the factory speaker wire connector off and connect the new speaker wires to the stock wires coming from the door. Be very careful to match the positive and negative wires coming from door with the positive and negative wires coming from the new speaker. Here are the positive/negative colors for the stock speaker wires:
- Drivers side:
•Positive: Tan
•Negative: Grey
- Passenger side:
•Positive: Lt. Green
•Negative: Dk. Green
On the speaker itself, the positive and negative connections should be marked, but typically the larger connection is positive and the smaller connection is negative. Personally, I just strip the ends of the wires, twist them together real good, apply some liquid electrical tape, let dry and then put some regular electrical tape over the liquid electrical tape. You need to be very careful to make sure that the speaker wire “slack” doesn’t interfere with the door window operation (ask me how I know!). If the excess speaker wire isn’t secured well, when you put the window all of the way down, it can hit the excess speaker wire and either break the wires or cause them to become disconnected. I also put some felt tape on the back of the speaker magnet to make sure the window didn’t rattle against the speaker magnet when the window is down all of the way.

4.Test the speaker and then re-install the speaker into the door and put everything back together.

5.Repeat process for the other front door speaker.

III. Rear-deck speaker installation procedure
1. Refer to the Crutchfield MasterSheet for a detailed set of instructions. I will, however, provide this tip when remove the rear seat bottoms (the first step in the Crutchfield MasterSheet)… While pulling the little “T” handles underneath the front of the seat bottom, pull the seat bottom straight up very hard (while pulling the T handles) in order to get the seat bottom to release from the cars floor.

2. Once you have access to the speakers, remove the (4) Torx screws that are holding the speaker onto the speaker bracket. At this point, you’ll need to pry the speaker away from the speaker bracket as GM uses some sort of adhesive in addition to the (4) Torx screws. I just used a flat-blade screwdriver and inserted it between the metal speaker cage and the plastic speaker bracket and then just “turned” the screwdriver, which causes the speaker to separate from the bracket.

3. Once the speaker is removed, you’ll need to cut the factory speaker wire connector off and connect the new speaker wires to the stock wires coming from the hole in the rear-deck. Be very careful to match the positive and negative wires coming from the rear-deck with the positive and negative wires coming from the new speaker. Here are the positive/negative colors for the stock speaker wires:
- Drivers side:
• Positive: Brown
• Negative: Yellow
- Passenger side:
• Positive: Dk. Blue
• Negative: Lt. Blue
On the speaker itself, the positive and negative connections should be marked, but typically the larger connection is positive and the smaller connection is negative. Personally, I just strip the ends of the wires, twist them together real good, apply some liquid electrical tape, let dry and then put some regular electrical tape over the liquid electrical tape.

4. Test the speakers and then re-install the speaker into the rear-deck speaker bracket.

5. Repeat process for the other rear-deck speaker.

6. Put everything back together and enjoy
And finally, some pictures...

Pictures of the stock front door speaker compared to the aftermarket speakers using the brackets from the Hummer H3 speakers:



Picture of an aftermarket 6.5" speaker installed into the front door using the Hummer H3 speaker bracket:


Pictures of the stock 6x9 speakers compared to the aftermarket 6x9 speakers:



Picture of the flip-and-fold seat bottom "T handle" mechanism:
This is what the floor looks beneath the seat bottom - the bottom of the seat contains a black "connector" that goes into these holes. When you pull the "T handle", the black "connector" contracts and allows the seat bottom to be pulled up:
This is what the black "connector" looks like on the underside of the seat bottom (T handle is pictured as well) - there are two of these - one on each side of the seat bottom:
Here are the exact speakers that I used (inexpensive, but MUCH better than the stock speakers!):
Front: Pioneer TS-A1675R
Rear: Pioneer TS-A6965R

Last edited by jtrosky; 05-24-2017 at 02:46 AM.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 02-05-2014
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Great write-up!

One thing I'd like to add, they make harnesses to connect aftermarket speakers directly to the factory harness with no wire splicing needed. One end has the "female" end of the harness while the other end has the "female" slot-style connections that slip directly onto the speaker terminals. This allows you to easily revert back to stock if you ever decide to sell the vehicle.

Again, great info and a great write-up

~Jeff
*2001 Impala Ls - 141k
Precision 6262 Turbo, ZZP Z3, CXRacing intercooler, ZZP 3" Cat-back, Muffler delete, Bosch 42.5# Injectors, Bosch fuel pump, CTS-V Brembos, Stainless lines, BC Racing coilovers, Dorman solid sway bar, SPEC-D LED headlights, LED heads and fogs, Quad tails, C5 reverse lights, All LED interior, LED 6 gauge cluster retrofit, LED puddle lights, LED underglow, Debadged, Dipped emblems, Color-matched trim, Kenwood DDX271, Polk Audio dxi6500 components, Polk Audio db690, Hifonics GLX100.4, 2x Polk Audio db1240 in custom box, Hifonics ZRX1800.1D, KMC District, Nitto NT555G2, SS tail covers, SS spoiler, SS Lip, 20% tint, Black mesh grille

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Thanks for the info - i didn't realize that speaker wire adapters were available (according to Crutchfield, anyway) - maybe Crutchfield just doesn't sell them. Do you happen to have a link to where someone can buy these adapters so that other folks can do it the right way?

In my case, I cut the factory connectors off, leaving enough wire attached to them, so that I could re-attach them if needed (although, for the price of the speakers that I used, I would *not* remove them if I sold the car - not worth the time and effort for speakers that cost under $50!). But still, adapters would be the right way to do the job though! :-)

While I didn't provide any "new" information here, I just wanted to put it all in one place so that people didn't have to search the internet to figure out things like the stock speaker wire color codes, etc... Also, hopefully this will save someone the pain that I'm *still* feeling in my hands from pulling on them damn "T handles" so hard!! :-) You can tell I don't do real work for a living!! :-) It's also the *least* that I could do to contribute to the forum - I've learned so much here!

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I will be using this soon! Thank you for this great write up!
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This says 2006-2008 not sure if they changed the speaker harness design in 08 or not...

Chevrolet Impala 2006 2007 2008 Speaker Adapter Harness | eBay

Edit: these from CarID say 2000-2012

METRA® 72-4568 - Chevy Impala 2000-2012 Speaker Harness

~Jeff
*2001 Impala Ls - 141k
Precision 6262 Turbo, ZZP Z3, CXRacing intercooler, ZZP 3" Cat-back, Muffler delete, Bosch 42.5# Injectors, Bosch fuel pump, CTS-V Brembos, Stainless lines, BC Racing coilovers, Dorman solid sway bar, SPEC-D LED headlights, LED heads and fogs, Quad tails, C5 reverse lights, All LED interior, LED 6 gauge cluster retrofit, LED puddle lights, LED underglow, Debadged, Dipped emblems, Color-matched trim, Kenwood DDX271, Polk Audio dxi6500 components, Polk Audio db690, Hifonics GLX100.4, 2x Polk Audio db1240 in custom box, Hifonics ZRX1800.1D, KMC District, Nitto NT555G2, SS tail covers, SS spoiler, SS Lip, 20% tint, Black mesh grille

*1999 Escalade - 150k
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*2001 Dakota - 99k
Custom painted runaround

*2014 Impala LT Limited - 65k
"Dad's ride"

*1992 Caprice Wagon - Sold @ 195k
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They both look like they would work to me! Nice - wish I had known that before I did mine! :-) I'd go with the CarID ones since they appear to be a little cheaper.

Thank you very much, sir! I'd highly recommend these to anyone looking to replace their speakers - would make the job that much easier and cleaner, for sure.

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If they are the same from 2000-2012 then you can find them even cheaper ($6 on amazon prime). For some reason the listings dont all include the 8th gen years. IF they are the same, sketch for adapter harnesses for 2000 impalas

~Jeff
*2001 Impala Ls - 141k
Precision 6262 Turbo, ZZP Z3, CXRacing intercooler, ZZP 3" Cat-back, Muffler delete, Bosch 42.5# Injectors, Bosch fuel pump, CTS-V Brembos, Stainless lines, BC Racing coilovers, Dorman solid sway bar, SPEC-D LED headlights, LED heads and fogs, Quad tails, C5 reverse lights, All LED interior, LED 6 gauge cluster retrofit, LED puddle lights, LED underglow, Debadged, Dipped emblems, Color-matched trim, Kenwood DDX271, Polk Audio dxi6500 components, Polk Audio db690, Hifonics GLX100.4, 2x Polk Audio db1240 in custom box, Hifonics ZRX1800.1D, KMC District, Nitto NT555G2, SS tail covers, SS spoiler, SS Lip, 20% tint, Black mesh grille

*1999 Escalade - 150k
Winter daily on 22s

*2001 Dakota - 99k
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*2014 Impala LT Limited - 65k
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If you don't want to cut your factory speaker plug off the harness go here: METRA® 72-4568 - Chevy Impala 2000-2012 Speaker Harness

Wayne
2008 Impala LT
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Ha you beat me to it Jeff.

Wayne
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Awesome write-up! Moved to DIY section.

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Thank you for posting this! Really not looking forward to doing the rear speakers on my 08 impala but this guide will sure help.
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post #12 of (permalink) Old 02-24-2014
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Thanks for the post!

I've already completed my install, but this will definitely come in handy when I sound dampen once spring hits.

I've found the car pretty easy to work with overall.

Do you have a working link to the Mastersheet?
Tried the one in the original post and it just directs to the filedropper main page.
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Damn! Not sure why the filedropper site quit working...

Does anyone have a better site that I can use to host this file? Or is there a way that I can "attach" the file to a post here?

If you want to PM me a personal email address, I'd be glad to email it in the meantime (it really is a useful document).
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You can upload certain formats to the forum, yes.

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Well, the .pdf is too big to uplaod to the site (doesn't compress at all either), so let's try MediaFire...

http://www.mediafire.com/view/cwnapz...eplacement.pdf

If a moderator could please replace the link in the OP, that would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks.

Last edited by jtrosky; 02-24-2014 at 03:57 PM.
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