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post #31 of (permalink) Old 03-23-2015
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Can I use this tutorial if my thermostat has been removed from the car?
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post #32 of (permalink) Old 03-23-2015
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First off why has the tstat been removed?




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post #33 of (permalink) Old 03-27-2015
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Hey....new to the forum....was reading with interest this thread concerning bleeding of the water system.


I have a '05 Impala with the 3.8 liter engine. A couple of weeks ago my wife phoned me and said the water temp was maxed, and there was an alarm sounding in the car. Then, she said temp returned to normal. I flushed the system that weekend, and noticed that the color of the Dex was dirty brown, kind of like muddy water.


That was a couple of weeks ago. My wife uses the car pretty much daily....and had not noted anything abnormal since. Today the same problem returned....this time she also noticed that the heater was also blowing cool air.


I have always performed an air purge by running the engine and heater, keeping the radiator cap off, and adding fluid there. I tried the purge at the purge valve, but kept getting periods where no water at all would come out of the purge. I would squeeze both top and bottom radiator hoses....and ultimately the purge valve would start to bleed dex again. Also....the color of the Dex was once again like muddy water. Also the heater air was warm, but not hot as it should have been.


I had replaced the water pump last year....as well as those 2 plastic water tubes that go into/out of the idler.


So....tomorrow my plan is to perform another flush. Then try and make sure all the air is bled out of the system. Might even swap out the Thermostat.


I am just wondering why this dex is looking like muddy water. Also...as I have never used that purge valve on top of the T-STAT before....wanted to make sure that it should have DEX coming out of it all of the time when open? Another question I have is the location of the drain valve on the radiator....I have been pulling off a hose to drain the fluid previously.....


Thanks....appreciate input....
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post #34 of (permalink) Old 03-27-2015
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I'm thinking maybe oil contamination
Maybe

Some things are better left unsaid, which I generally realize right after I have said them.
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post #35 of (permalink) Old 03-27-2015
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I haven't read the entire post. But in regards to the 3.4 coolant bleeding I do one additional step. After doing the bleeding at the bleeders I have an assistant rev the engine a bit and hold it there. That will cause the coolant level to drop in the radiator. While the level is low I will add coolant until it is topped off and replace the radiator cap. Then I will tell the assistant to let off the accelerator. This way I know I am 100% air free. If this adds too much coolant it will purge out on its own.

Don

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post #36 of (permalink) Old 03-27-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tron god View Post
Hey....new to the forum....was reading with interest this thread concerning bleeding of the water system.


I have a '05 Impala with the 3.8 liter engine. A couple of weeks ago my wife phoned me and said the water temp was maxed, and there was an alarm sounding in the car. Then, she said temp returned to normal. I flushed the system that weekend, and noticed that the color of the Dex was dirty brown, kind of like muddy water.


That was a couple of weeks ago. My wife uses the car pretty much daily....and had not noted anything abnormal since. Today the same problem returned....this time she also noticed that the heater was also blowing cool air.


I have always performed an air purge by running the engine and heater, keeping the radiator cap off, and adding fluid there. I tried the purge at the purge valve, but kept getting periods where no water at all would come out of the purge. I would squeeze both top and bottom radiator hoses....and ultimately the purge valve would start to bleed dex again. Also....the color of the Dex was once again like muddy water. Also the heater air was warm, but not hot as it should have been.


I had replaced the water pump last year....as well as those 2 plastic water tubes that go into/out of the idler.


So....tomorrow my plan is to perform another flush. Then try and make sure all the air is bled out of the system. Might even swap out the Thermostat.


I am just wondering why this dex is looking like muddy water. Also...as I have never used that purge valve on top of the T-STAT before....wanted to make sure that it should have DEX coming out of it all of the time when open? Another question I have is the location of the drain valve on the radiator....I have been pulling off a hose to drain the fluid previously.....


Thanks....appreciate input....
Once u get the coolant looking clean I would def replace the coolant temp sensor. They tend to get dirty and fail if u have muddy dexcool.

Drain valve is on passenger side bottom of radiator. Kind of a pita to get at without pulling shields off.


Next time you have the idler assembly off replace those coolant elbows with the aluminum variant. Costs a few $$ more but well worth it.

If your coolant keeps getting muddy I would have to think its being contaminated by either oil (lower intake leaking) or the internal trans cooler is leaking into the radiator/coolant.




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post #37 of (permalink) Old 03-28-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g25racer View Post
Once u get the coolant looking clean I would def replace the coolant temp sensor. They tend to get dirty and fail if u have muddy dexcool.

Drain valve is on passenger side bottom of radiator. Kind of a pita to get at without pulling shields off.


Next time you have the idler assembly off replace those coolant elbows with the aluminum variant. Costs a few $$ more but well worth it.

If your coolant keeps getting muddy I would have to think its being contaminated by either oil (lower intake leaking) or the internal trans cooler is leaking into the radiator/coolant.
g25....thanks for the thoughts. I will look for the valve again today....and of course it is a balmy 43 degrees today so that adds to the "fun".

Will check the price and location of the coolant temp sensor and will replace today (after getting rid of the muddy water....looks like clay....is brownish orange in color). My oil has never shown signs of water intrusion....and I just changed the oil and filter when I was working on the car a couple of weeks ago.

I DID replace those elbows with aluminum ones. Those plastic ones just crumbled when I was taking it apart. Just cheap that Chevy did not use those originally. I thought the pump was leaking as there was anti-freeze all over the passenger side of the engine compartment, but turned out that those tubes were the root cause of that problem.

I am not a mechanic by trade....but have acquired a lot of tools over the years, and outside of a major engine overhaul, am normally willing to at least give most repairs a shot. Certainly have learned a lot on this forum (already) and on other forums for Camaro's, Neon's, Avalanche's...etc....

Between the forums and youtube, have managed to save a lot of $$$ over the years in repairs....

So again, appreciate all the thoughts.
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post #38 of (permalink) Old 03-28-2015
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Ok. I replaced the thermostat and the coolant temp sensor after I had flushed the system with water. I did not see anymore brown water.

One bad sign (I believe) was that I located the drain plug on the drivers side of the radiator. I unscrewed it with a 18 or 19 mm socket (what a pain) but nothing came out. I unscrewed the drain plug all the way....could not actually take it out, maybe it is a captive drain plug....but I never saw any liquid come from there. I am guessing this means the radiator is clogged.

I bled the system as described in the procedures above. Seemed like things were working decent.....but then the warm air that was blowing out of the heater turned cooler....and the water temp indicator on the control panel started to fluctuate again from about 10:00 to around 12:00 on the temp dial

I continued bleeding the system using the Tstat bleed valve. While I have not noticed the car overheating.....the heater blows cool air sometimes, and warm air other times. The temp indicator varies as noted above.

I was not losing water before....so not sure if there is a leak or not.
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post #39 of (permalink) Old 03-28-2015
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Now it sounds to me like you have a plugged up heater core. As for no coolant coming out of the drain I have no idea. Could be chunks of crap (the stop leak tablets) stuck right by the plug.

What process did you use to flush the system? Have you flushed just the radiator by itself? If not, I would def recommend it.

If your problem still persists I would recommend a heater core flush. And then a pressure check of the coolant system. There could be a small leak and air is being introduced to the system causing air bubbles and the fluctuating temp.

NOTE: After replacing the coolant temp sensor you MUST reset the computer (unhook both battery cables, turn key on, and leave it for a couple minutes). This is an absolute must!!!

I replaced my coolant temp sensor years ago due to sludgy dexcool (my temp gauge wouldn't move at all) and after replacing it the problem persisted. I reset the computer and presto




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post #40 of (permalink) Old 04-02-2015
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Retiredpauly mentioned the airlift. I use one at work and I am always confident that there are no air pockets whenever I install a new radiator.
One thing I could never understand is why there isn't a cooling system bleeder on every engine.
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post #41 of (permalink) Old 04-04-2015
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G25......thanks for the additional suggestions. I was away on work last week. During that time....the wife used the car. She had to add water to the fluid container twice. I bled the system quite a bit prior to my departure....but as I left the next morning I really did not have a chance to drive and observe the car. I am back home now. The heater is working (per my wife....who would have complained had it not). She says the temp has been good as well.....but she claims to get a whiff of anti-freeze when she exits the car.


I just got back home and have the car on now.....checking for leaks. My wife did not notice any puddles....and I am not seeing anything. I do see a couple of areas where there is still anti-freeze/water from last week, just small pockets away from any tubing that has to do with the cooling system on the car. I really dumped a lot of coolant last week, so my guess is this is leftover smell.


This is what I recall doing. I have never put any tabs or anything into the coolant system, but have used the radiator flush the week prior. This time I used only water. I tried to flush only the radiator, but as the bottom drain was not working, I ended up spraying water into where the radiator cap is, then watching it run out the top hose (disconnected) and let it run until brown stopped and just water came out. Then I took off the thermostat, and started the car and again put water into the radiator....this time the brown crap came out the thermostat hole. Again let that run until I saw water (not that long). I then drained what I could of the water in the radiator by disconnecting the 2 hoses....and after reconnecting the hoses I added Dex. I initially performed the bleed by squeezing the hoses, with the radiator cap off...and kept adding fluid. Then I started to use the drain on the thermostat. At the end, the hoses were no longer collapsing as they had before. But it still did not seem like it was acting normal. But apparently during the week the car ran normally.

I did not know about resetting the coolant temp sensor by unhooking battery, will do today. Also, I think you are correct about the radiator being clogged, and think I will end up replacing that as well.


Thanks again for the suggestions....
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post #42 of (permalink) Old 04-04-2015
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Note: Do NOT mix dex with anything else besides water!! This will cause sludging

Also note that these cars come stock with Stop leak tabs. Which overtime without regular flushing and maint can cause the brown sludgy gunk. This is what happened with my impala.

I did not have my radiator replaced as I should have after my nasty coolant issue. But, I had it professionally flushed (with a machine) and then flushed it again at home with thermostat removed and car running, and replaced with prestone. I also put in a 180deg T-stat and have never seen above 200deg since. My heat is lacking a little bit and probably needs a heater core flush though.

After my dexcool experience I am personally staying away from it.




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post #43 of (permalink) Old 04-05-2015
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Ah, did not know that tabs were stock. That may explain some things. A year ago, when I replaced those plastic tubes with the aluminum ones....around the radiator cap looked like clay had formed. And the brown sludgy gunk sounds like what I was seeing. And I never flushed the system before last year.....I am the second owner of the car, and has around 90k miles on it.....33k when I bought it.

Yea, I thought this car's temp would be under middle mark on temp dial....but I really do not recall as I do not drive it. Engine is a 3.8l, it is LS model. Temp right now is around mid scale deflection.

Yea, maybe it will be cheaper to get the radiator cleansed....but not sure. Replacement radiator is almost $200 at Advance.....and looks like a little bit of a hassle to replace.


Oh...and I did not mix dex with anything else but water....even the flush was for dex cool systems....this was before I read that it is probably better just to use water to flush.....so that is what I did this last time.
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post #44 of (permalink) Old 04-07-2015
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Yes the stop leak tabs did indeed come stock from the factory. Problem is no one ever flushed the system in the proper amount of time and mixed with dex they do some nasty things inside the coolant system.

These cars do run a bit hot even when operating fine. Before I installed the 180deg t-stat I would get up to 220deg max. But usually around 200deg.

Have you reset the computer yet? And do u have heat back now?

And yes I wouldn't doubt that the coolant smell is just leftover leakage burning off.

I would just recommend keeping an eye on that coolant level and color. If the color starts to get muddy brown again then, I would start suspecting a lower intake leak.




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post #45 of (permalink) Old 05-04-2015
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does this work for the 08 impala ls as well?
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