3400 V6 cooling system bleed - Page 2 - Chevy Impala Forums
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post #16 of (permalink) Old 07-07-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LA1 View Post
something I would like to add that is in the same general venue. When you change your coolant. Instead of using tap water, use distilled water. Get 3 x 1 gallon jugs, what you have left over use for your battery ( if fillable).
Should always use distilled water. Yet, most people just use tap water whether it be from a well or city water.




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post #17 of (permalink) Old 07-08-2013 Thread Starter
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Distilled is ideal, but honestly I have always used tap water, never been an issue for me. Batteries are another story.

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post #18 of (permalink) Old 12-14-2013
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNkc_JsLl9I

^Video i put together on how to flush an impala cooling system..and change the thermostat..subscribe to my channel for free!!thanks!!
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post #19 of (permalink) Old 10-14-2014
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What about needing to get the bleeders higher? I've seen many a folk talk about using a no spill funnel at the rad cap, or parking with the front of the car inclined, etc? I have an Alero with the same engine and am needing to bleed it. (I also have an 02 Impala which is why I'm joining this group.)

Last edited by jsalter00; 10-14-2014 at 08:26 AM. Reason: Add content
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post #20 of (permalink) Old 10-17-2014
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Might see if your local parts store ( auto zone, O'Reillys etc.) has a rental program for tools and see if they have one of these

Uview Airlift 550000 Demonstration, Pressure Test, Coolant Fill - YouTube

I bought one recently and although I have not had the opportunity to use it myself yet, there are a number of videos of people that have used them and swear by them.

Makes sense that if the entire system is under vacuum ( 25+ inches) then no reason to have to bleed it. Coolant should be the only thing in there.

I have an antifreeze change to perform on my Nissan diesel truck sometime before winter. I will give it a try at that time and post my thoughts on it.

Some things are better left unsaid, which I generally realize right after I have said them.

Last edited by retiredpauly; 10-17-2014 at 05:18 AM.
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post #21 of (permalink) Old 01-15-2015
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I just want to take the time to say thank you for posting this. I have been trying to fix this issue since the beginning of June, 2014. Needless to say, I am not a certified mechanic nor do I have as much knowledge as you do sir. I followed your instructions word for word and in less than 10 minutes I was done. My 2003 3.4 is running like a champ, blowing hot air, and maintaining proper operating temperature. Again, thank you for posting this as you have relieved over 7 months of stress and headaches. I will always be looking for your advice on here when I need help working on my car.

Sincerely,
Ian Allyn
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post #22 of (permalink) Old 01-15-2015
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If you have a cooling system pressure tester you don't even have to turn the car on and be done.
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post #23 of (permalink) Old 02-03-2015
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OK all this information is terrific but I have one more question. I have replaced the head gaskets, intake gaskets thermostat radiator and cap. The car is continuing to run on the high side of the normal range. Though it does not overheat the gauge is showing higher value than I feel comfortable with. We put a laser thermometer on the inlet and outlet sides of the engine and both were under 190. Should I be concerned with this? It actually runs slightly cooler at an idle then under load. I also have great heat at all times.?

Last edited by magnolia; 02-03-2015 at 08:41 PM. Reason: more information
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post #24 of (permalink) Old 02-03-2015
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What temps are you seeing on the gauge at max?

If you get the car up to temp (at least 180) and then let it sit idling what does it get up to?

And what does it raise to once driving and under load? And what kind of load are we talking about? I mean obv full throttle or close to it constantly is going to raise the temp. But cruising at a stable speed should lower the temps and not raise them.

Also how did the coolant and old thermostat look as well as the lower intake (coolant passages)? Was there any sort of film/gunk build up?

Fyi: these engines do run a bit hot! As long as you are under 210f I wouldn't worry too much.

I run a Lower temp Tstat but only cause I don't live in a weird climate. I run a 180f stat and have yet to see 200f. But I am likely suffering on mpg because of it.




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Wagner Thermoquiet Pads
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JBL GTO 6.5" and 6x9"
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Hifonics Hifi 1500 (KnuKoncepts 4ga)
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post #25 of (permalink) Old 02-04-2015
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No gunk or film on lower or upper intake. The temp is slightly higher at cruising speed then at an idle. It does stay below the 3/4 mark on the gauge, but to me that is too high compared to what I have seen in my experience. When I speak of load, I am speaking of 60 to 65 mph.drove for 40miles and it never overheated and sitting at an idle for over 20 minutes the fans never came on. If this is common then I will just put a good set of gauges in rather then depend on the factory ones.
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post #26 of (permalink) Old 02-04-2015
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Perhaps for the price of a new OE temp sender change it out and see if that may be the issue.

Some things are better left unsaid, which I generally realize right after I have said them.
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post #27 of (permalink) Old 02-04-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by retiredpauly View Post
Perhaps for the price of a new OE temp sender change it out and see if that may be the issue.


Exactly what I was trying to get at.

However he is saying his fans never come on. And they should be coming on at around 210f. Something isnt right




2001 Impala LS
TransGO Shift kit
Spectre Cone Filter
Thunderbolt Spun Cat
ZZP Alternator Power Cable
Wagner Thermoquiet Pads
KYB Strut Plus (Rr)
L67 Pass Eng Mount
Tinted tail lights
Painted Trim
Dipped Rims and emblems
Led plate, full interior, trunk, and console
Black interior accents (handles and switch panels)
JBL GTO 6.5" and 6x9"
Sony MEX-GS600BT
Hifonics Hifi 1500 (KnuKoncepts 4ga)
Rockford P3 @ 500rms
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post #28 of (permalink) Old 02-04-2015
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I agree gents! I would think if the engine was hot, the fans would come on. I will change the sending unit today. If ANYONE has anything that pops into their head I would appreciate any and all ideas! I have been working on engines for way too long and have never seen an engine run cooler at an idle then it does with air rushing through the radiator.
Nothing on this thing is easy to work on either! I guess being an old V8 guy I am very spoiled!

Last edited by magnolia; 02-04-2015 at 01:13 PM. Reason: added info
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post #29 of (permalink) Old 02-04-2015
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Well Gentlemen, Problem solved, the coolant temp sensor was bad. Though it was changed with the thermostat just before the head gaskets were changed it was failing. I thank you all for the quick and worthwhile info. I was beginning to doubt my own abilities and feared that I did something wrong with the head gasket job. Glad that wasn't it I couldn't even think about tearing that apart again! Again thanks to you all!
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post #30 of (permalink) Old 02-04-2015
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Great news!

So are the fans turning on now? And are you seeing lower/more accurate temps?




2001 Impala LS
TransGO Shift kit
Spectre Cone Filter
Thunderbolt Spun Cat
ZZP Alternator Power Cable
Wagner Thermoquiet Pads
KYB Strut Plus (Rr)
L67 Pass Eng Mount
Tinted tail lights
Painted Trim
Dipped Rims and emblems
Led plate, full interior, trunk, and console
Black interior accents (handles and switch panels)
JBL GTO 6.5" and 6x9"
Sony MEX-GS600BT
Hifonics Hifi 1500 (KnuKoncepts 4ga)
Rockford P3 @ 500rms
"Apply Dielectric Grease or I kick some arse"
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