cailper bolt wont come off and one shoe totally worn out - Chevy Impala Forums
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 07-18-2019 Thread Starter
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cailper bolt wont come off and one shoe totally worn out

rockauto just delivered my parts yesterday but i really didnt wana work in 100 degree heat saturday but now i must


after a hard brake on the way home i heard a horrible grinding in front left. i let it cool down 1 hour. the top caliper bolt came off but bottom didnt. and hot as heck out there. i was able to swing it open and saw the inner pad was down bad and the other one was relatively ok. i took out the metal wear piece and put it back together. at least now while driving its not really bad but when i press the brakes its horrible. ill obviously drive carefully on my 140 mile drive to work tomorrow


but do you think the bolt will come off once cold overnight


also why would the inner pad wear so much worse and will that happen to my new brakes

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 07-19-2019
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I have had this issue before, and it is something you will for sure what to address. The bolt/guide pin that is first to the rotation of the brakes (in this case, the bottom bolt) typically have a rubber bushing on the guide pin. Those bushings can swell for whatever reason and lock in place in the caliper. I have actually broken off a guide pin trying to guide them out on a different vehicle. I would do your best to spray a lubricant where the pin enters the caliper, and try turning the bolt/pin back and forth a bunch of times with an impact.

If you don't free this up, your pads will wear unevenly because the caliper can't float like it is supposed to. That is why your inner pad is wearing the way it is. Once assembled, the caliper needs to be able to move freely on both of those pins.

I have honestly just installed my new ones without the rubber bushings. I think it is supposed to help with noise of vibration, but in 30k miles I haven't seen or heard any change. I am in no way saying you should do that, but just mentioning that is what I did with seemingly no issues. I tried to look up what the real use is for it, but didn't come up with much. Also weird that only one pin has it.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 07-19-2019
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The lubrication (if applied when the brake pads were changed) has probably worn off, causing a pad to stick and wear prematurely (as stated above by

I have seen people sand / file / scrape corrosion off of the caliper slide bolts, and reuse them - which causes the bolts to corrode more. If there are any imperfections on the slide bolt, you should replace them with OEM bolts. Ensure that you use a high quality, synthetic brake lubricant to lubricate the slide pins, caliper slides, etc.

I donít have a suggestion on how to remove the stuck bolt, other than to take your time and donít force it out of frustration.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 07-19-2019 Thread Starter
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i buy a new kit every time i do the brakes. for a few bucks is foolish not to. i guess since the brakes last so long the grease needs to be done more often. if it makes the brakes last longer i can set a reminder for after 40K to do this. i have 80K on this set. 1st set lasted 100K and i was hoping for the same now but around 165K i starting hearing noises i just thought were warped rotors. word to the wise. dont avoid noises.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/ac...uide+pin,10281

the bolt was spinning along with the slider and i did put vice grips on it but it was too darn hot to worry about it last night. i just took off the metal to drive to work without much noise today. setting alarm for early tomorrow when only will be 82 out i think that design where you gotta use grips to hold that pin is nuts. my open ended wrench is too thick to fit in there and hold it though.

my breaker bar is normally good enough to break these free. im not sure my gun would fit in there. but will be last effort if so.

i thought the rubber bushings were needed to keep dirt out? i also read online you can heat up the bracket and it should expand and allow the bolt to come out but i wouldnt wanna mess up the bushing or something else of course. anyone ever use the heat method?

2 RSA for sale. 7/32 good tread. berks county PA

166K on 2014 Blue Ray Metallic 2LTZ with 19s and nav. sadly new trans at 140K. Used to own 1995 DCM SS with only 260K!
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 07-19-2019
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Originally Posted by luckydriver View Post
i thought the rubber bushings were needed to keep dirt out? i also read online you can heat up the bracket and it should expand and allow the bolt to come out but i wouldnt wanna mess up the bushing or something else of course. anyone ever use the heat method?
The rubber bushing I am referring to is on the very tip of the one slide pin. It isn't on both. Not the rubber boots that prevent dirt from getting. I would count on replacing the rubber pieces anyways, so I wouldn't worry about using heat. You can always take the mounting bracket off to make it easier to work with. Just do what you got to. Good luck.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 07-19-2019
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Shoot a little penetrating oil on both sides of the threads and let sit overnight. If you have not replaced the bolts before, would not get too crazy with a pipe on a breaker bar, but would use a pipe over a breaker bar easily to break the bolt loose.

Have used heat before to break a bolt loose, and yes on old stubborn stuff it can definitely help.

Would plan on getting new caliper bolts and using a quality brake lube/grease. Pretty sure those bolts are supposed to be a tty bolt.

My 6 year constantly asks why. What adults can learn from 5 and 6 year olds, to listen with your ears and mind open. Hard to learn when you don't listen ......
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 07-19-2019 Thread Starter
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so question of the day. maybe i put the wrong pin in the wrong place and thats my issue

so using the link above to rockauto. which pin goes in which hole on my front left ? i dont want to assume i put them in correctly before.

2 RSA for sale. 7/32 good tread. berks county PA

166K on 2014 Blue Ray Metallic 2LTZ with 19s and nav. sadly new trans at 140K. Used to own 1995 DCM SS with only 260K!
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 07-19-2019
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I'm pretty sure that the pin with the rubber piece is supposed to be on the leading edge of the caliper for the rotor rotation. So this would be the top pin on the front left caliper I suppose if they are mounted towards the front (which I think they are). I pictured them towards the back in my first post. You might be better off watching a youtube video to verify.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 07-19-2019
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Clean/lube guide/slide pins is a normal/automatic step of my pad/rotor replacement. Had trouble on my 'ol Fords with the pins binding/seizing, esp. the rears, using brake grease. Switched over to anti-seize compound and problem solved.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 07-19-2019 Thread Starter
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yes one pin is about at 9 o clock and one around 12 or 1 position. ill have to dig up video. there are so many that really arent 2014 impala and lumped in with 2012 etc

2 RSA for sale. 7/32 good tread. berks county PA

166K on 2014 Blue Ray Metallic 2LTZ with 19s and nav. sadly new trans at 140K. Used to own 1995 DCM SS with only 260K!
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post #11 of (permalink) Old 07-19-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheila View Post
Clean/lube guide/slide pins is a normal/automatic step of my pad/rotor replacement. Had trouble on my 'ol Fords with the pins binding/seizing, esp. the rears, using brake grease. Switched over to anti-seize compound and problem solved.
Anti-Seize is not a good lubricant for moving parts. It is meant for stationary parts like lug nuts and the threads on the brake pins. Over time the anti-seize will dry out and leave just the aluminum material in it behind.

It is good to use Anti-Seize on threaded components, but the brake pins should be coated with a good Silicone based lubricant such as Sil-Glyde (available at NAPA), ACDelco 10-4019 Silicone Brake Lubricant, or Permatex 80653 Silicone Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant (Red). Do Not Use The Permatex Green or Purple Lube as it is not compatible with rubber components.

Silicone Based Grease is able to withstand the large amounts of heat generated by the brake system.

Last edited by Bowtie396; 07-19-2019 at 02:11 PM.
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post #12 of (permalink) Old 07-19-2019
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I've used the above. Normally it works great unless washed out or baked away. My main problem were the rears. They get serviced about 1/3 as often as the fronts. Pins were almost always dry or seized. Switched to never-seize years ago and not 1 hint of a problem since. I use it on rears and fronts. Let's just agree to disagree, lol.
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post #13 of (permalink) Old 07-20-2019 Thread Starter
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well no one told me it's easier to work on the bolts if you turn the wheel it came right off.



God was definitely on my side as everything went even more smoothly than normal. even getting the wheels back on after rotating was ez. did brakes oil change and rotating in less than 2 hours in this killer heat.



i did the other side first to see how the pins went. then did he side i had issues with the other day and turning the wheel solved my issue with the stuck bolt. ez.



however. that side had 2 pins and they were the same . one had the washer on . one did not .i'm guessing this could be the reason why the pad was down to zero and unbelieveable amount of rust. shocked didnt disintegrate. put the new correct pins in and drove around an pure bliss. i think its stupid the new kits dont have washers. would it cost maybe 25 cents?



any idea what could be wrong if i think the brake pedal still goes down a bit more than i think it should. i forgot to check fluid while i was out there but beside that, what could be wrong. or maybe just my imagination. just put new rears on last year so cannot be them.



next time 1st sign of trouble/warped rotors etc ill just suck it up and change them out

2 RSA for sale. 7/32 good tread. berks county PA

166K on 2014 Blue Ray Metallic 2LTZ with 19s and nav. sadly new trans at 140K. Used to own 1995 DCM SS with only 260K!
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post #14 of (permalink) Old 07-20-2019
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^+1 on checking fluid level. I'd recommend a 4-wheel bleed for low pedal.
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post #15 of (permalink) Old 07-20-2019 Thread Starter
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^+1 on checking fluid level. I'd recommend a 4-wheel bleed for low pedal.



i'm sure theres a write up somewhere about that but i'm assuming thats easier with wheels off ? or not?



i really hate jacking up the car lol


oh wait. isnt that a 2 man job? i remember doing that for the guys when i worked at the station as a kid. should the fluid be changed. i only have 180K on the car and ive actually never changed the fluid even on my impala that had over 300K and the SS with over 200K

2 RSA for sale. 7/32 good tread. berks county PA

166K on 2014 Blue Ray Metallic 2LTZ with 19s and nav. sadly new trans at 140K. Used to own 1995 DCM SS with only 260K!
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