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post #16 of (permalink) Old 11-11-2018
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My problem was the Passenger heat actuator.
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Nothing custom about this.....LOL
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post #17 of (permalink) Old 03-23-2019
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Replaced all three actuators on my 2012 LTZ

It was a horrible noise, drove me up the wall. I replaced the one above the glove box on the passenger side (not terrible but had to pretty much do it blind because I could not see it after I had my hand in there. Took about a 1/2 hour. I paid a friend who does car work $40 to replace the two above and inboard of the gas pedal.

Really hoping the 9th gen Impala's do not have this same problem. Been in the back of my mind ever since I bought my 2014.
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Anything worth doing is worth doing right!

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post #18 of (permalink) Old 03-23-2019
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Ed, iirc, with dual climate control, there are 3 hvac actuators in the pass. glovebox area: rh temp, mode (vent) and recirc. Only actuator between the steering wheel and radio is the lh temp. All are the same part# except the mode (vent) actuator. Looking into the glovebox opening, rh temp is on the left, mode (vent) is atop the rh temp and the recirc is top right behind a large wiring harness. Lh temp is up under the dash between the steering wheel and radio accessed by removing black plastic kick shield. I've had to replace both temp actuators. 5.5mm (7/32"). $15/ea. on Amazon. Dorman part# 604-108.
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Last edited by sheila; 03-23-2019 at 12:10 PM.
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post #19 of (permalink) Old 03-23-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheila View Post
Ed, iirc, with dual climate control, there are 3 hvac actuators in the pass. glovebox area: rh temp, mode (vent) and recirc. Only actuator between the steering wheel and radio is the lh temp. All are the same part# except the mode (vent) actuator. Looking into the glovebox opening, rh temp is on the left, mode (vent) is atop the rh temp and the recirc is top right behind a large wiring harness. Lh temp is up under the dash between the steering wheel and radio accessed by removing black plastic kick shield. I've had to replace both temp actuators. 5.5mm (7/32").

Sheila, you had to replace yours on a 9th gen? (2014-present body style)



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post #20 of (permalink) Old 03-23-2019
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Sorry Ed, 8th gen., '12 LT. Also had to replace the rh (pass.) temp actuator on son's '16 LT Limited (old body style). All 3 temp actuators were $15/ea. on Amazon.
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post #21 of (permalink) Old 03-24-2019
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Well don't feel too bad about $340.00 to replace all 3 actuators. Some knucklehead here wanted $450.00. Needless he's still waiting.
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post #22 of (permalink) Old 03-25-2019
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i paid in the 300 dollar range i think for the two blend door actuators on the temp control. i bought the parts but didn't feel like standing on my head to change them...i felt the annoying clicking going away was worth that price lol.
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post #23 of (permalink) Old 08-02-2019
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You can check out blenddoor.com to purchase an alternate gear ($19) that the vendor claims is superior to the original gear that fails.

For my recent drivers side actuator failure, I purchased a new Dorman 604-108 actuator, opened it up, removed that gear that eventually fails and installed the blenddoor.com gear instead. Also lubricated it with the synthetic grease that comes with the gear. Although I could have just put the new gear in the old actuator, the whole actuator is cheap enough to replace.

Note that several models are sold on blenddoor.com so select the correct part. For my 2007 LT only the rebuilt kit that has a "larger gear on top of a smaller gear" will work. The aluminum gear, the white Delrin gear, and the black single gear (not "stacked") won't fit for my 2007. I don't know what year GM made the change where the gear (that fails) is pressed onto the shaft rather than manufactured as one piece.

Last edited by Lettermark; 08-02-2019 at 08:23 PM.
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post #24 of (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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While performing the 50K-mile service on my '16 Limited this past weekend, I had to disconnect a multi-pin harness plug from the inlet air tube so I could pull the tube to get the air filter box open. Apparently disconnecting that harness plug causes the HVAC controls to forget their positions, and I was treated to some horrific actuator racket as soon as I keyed the ignition after buttoning everything back up.

TIP: Forget about the possibility of just needing to pull the "Display" fuse in the engine bay fuse box once you hear that infernal clacking sound. All pulling the fuse will do is reset all of your DIC data, such as your trip odometers, average fuel economy, etc. (Pissed me off to discover that these aren't backed up in static RAM!) The clacking sound you hear means one of the gears in an HVAC actuator has broken off a tooth. And I'll bet you even money that it's the intermediate gear that has the broken tooth. It's the weakest link in the gear train inside one of these things.

But I digress. In my case, it was the recirc actuator that failed - the one near the right A-pillar, behind and to the right of the glove box. Amazon sells a number of different replacement actuators, and the AC Delco # 15-74122 is only a few bucks more than the no-name Chinese junk, so I bought a few of those, knowing that I'll eventually need them all. The Delco actuators are also cheap Chinese junk, but hopefully not quite as junky as their no-name counterparts. (Rubbing that rabbit's foot for all it's worth. )

My order was delivered Monday, and I decided to replace the failed actuator yesterday after work. Holy crap! It's damned near impossible to replace that thing without pulling the whole dash apart! Specifically, it's an incredible PITA to remove and replace those 5.5mm hex head screws because they face out toward the fender! Going in, I pessimistically estimated 30 minutes to complete the replacement. It took me two hours, but, in all honesty, half of that was spent trying to locate and retrieve first one of the screws, and then the socket when they dropped down inside there.

But all's well that ends well. The new actuator found home right away as soon as I turned the key, and there's no more clacking. For now. Still, I can't help wondering when the next one will go or why Generous Motors couldn't have spent a few more pennies to make those gears out of pot metal, UHMW, or nylon instead of what looks like 3D-printed plastic.

I split the case of the old actuator open to see where the tooth was missing, and am thinking of buying a rebuild kit from blenddoor.com to replace that gear, but it's difficult to justify $17 for one gear (THIS ONE) when an entire Delco actuator is only $26 from Amazon. Sure, the gear is described as being made from "tough engineering grade plastic," whatever that is. But it's still plastic. I'd feel a lot better about a nylon or metal gear - even pot metal - for my seventeen bucks.

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post #25 of (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tesla View Post
Holy crap! It's damned near impossible to replace that thing without pulling the whole dash apart! Specifically, it's an incredible PITA to remove and replace those 5.5mm hex head screws because they face out toward the fender! Going in, I pessimistically estimated 30 minutes to complete the replacement. It took me two hours, but, in all honesty, half of that was spent trying to locate and retrieve first one of the screws, and then the socket when they dropped down inside there.
No doubt, it's a pain getting under the dash, looking up into dark, cramped space, then trying to reach into the tight places.

I have found some trick socket tools that help. Seems like, I used the flex screwdriver on the last actuator I replaced. It's super handy for stuff like this.

As for 2 hours, you must admit, working on your own car makes you realize that maybe some of those outrageous garage prices aren't really so outrageous

As for repairing the actuator, it's not that far fetched. Years ago, I opened one up (off my 07 SS) and saw the damage on slow moving gear(s). I was able to re-position the damaged teeth such that they were never engaged by the mating gear. It's been working fine in the car ever since

BTW, a 7/32" socket is pretty danged close to 5.5mm, altho I have both

Doug

[Edit]That pic makes me look ape-hairy

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Last edited by plano-doug; 3 Weeks Ago at 10:20 AM.
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post #26 of (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plano-doug View Post
No doubt, it's a pain getting under the dash, looking up into dark, cramped space, then trying to reach into the tight places.

I have found some trick socket tools that help. Seems like, I used the flex screwdriver on the last actuator I replaced. It's super handy for stuff like this.

As for 2 hours, you must admit, working on your own car makes you realize that maybe some of those outrageous garage prices aren't really so outrageous

As for repairing the actuator, it's not that far fetched. Years ago, I opened one up (off my 07 SS) and saw the damage on slow moving gear(s). I was able to re-position the damaged teeth such that they were never engaged by the mating gear. It's been working fine in the car ever since

BTW, a 7/32" socket is pretty danged close to 5.5mm, altho I have both

Doug

I don't think a Flex screwdriver or universal would work for that recirc actuator due to location and clearance issues. But I think a thumbwheel ratchet would have been just the ticket.

Unfortunately, despite the massive amount I've spent accumulating tools over the decades, I've never owned a thumbwheel ratchet. But after yesterday's "adventure", that is about to be rectified. Just ordered these little beauties ...

S-K 1/4-inch thumbwheel ratchet

S-K 3/8-inch thumbwheel ratchet





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post #27 of (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tesla View Post
I don't think a Flex screwdriver or universal would work for that recirc actuator due to location and clearance issues. But I think a thumbwheel ratchet would have been just the ticket.
FWIW, that one is thumbwheel only, no ratchet. Altho I do have a larger, similar widget that does ratchet. Even without ratchet, it's still handy, especially when your hands are greasy.

Quote:
But after yesterday's "adventure", that is about to be rectified. Just ordered these little beauties ...
<snip>

LOL!

Those S-K's look nice. A little expensive, but still affordable.

Doug

.
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post #28 of (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Fwiw, for those on a budget, Harbor Freight Tools offers a 3-pack (1/4", 3/8" and 1/2") for cheap.
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