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post #1 of (permalink) Old 07-12-2018 Thread Starter
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coolant change time

i admit with as much as i've been under the car, i never looked at the radiator. i'm assuming the same kind of petcock as yesteryear and you just do the same drain/ fill as older cars?

oh wait you cant. i remember in old days you'd fill the radiator and keep the cap off to get rid of air then fill as needed.

so whats the right way to do this now. do you also take the plastic tank off to dump those contents or not bother?

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166K on 2014 Blue Ray Metallic 2LTZ with 19s and nav. sadly new trans at 140K. Used to own 1995 DCM SS with only 260K!
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 07-12-2018
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what year and motor. some don't have rad caps anymore just an overflow bottle. there should be bleeders to open up to let air out past the closed thermostat so you don't get a bubble, bubbles are bad in any cooling system.
actually plural, bubble. a big bubble.The bubble that ate my Impala. I do just like bleeding the brakes. stick a tube on the end, punch or drill a hole in a lid of a jar, fill the jar partially with water open the bleeder, pour in coolant watch the air come out. the jar has to be lower than the bleeder. Also there should be a drain on the bottom of the rad. I made a special tool to open and close for my 2003. search it should still be here on the site. there also should be on the front a d back of the block drain plugs that a 3/8 socket fits in if I remember correct.

Last edited by LA1; 07-12-2018 at 11:01 AM.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 07-13-2018
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I am undergoing the change of coolant as well. Please don't forget to check and maybe change the radiator hoses. The bypass hose and the upper hose are a snap to change. However, that bottom hose is a bear! I wouldn't want to change that one on a winters day under any circumstance. The local Auto Zone wanted nearly $30.00 for the lower hose (and boy is it a snake). I did find the same hose on Amazon for around $22.00. Just sayin'

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 07-30-2018 Thread Starter
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i still havent looked at the bottom. what makes it so hard. id like to do this at next oil change since car will be up anyway. so probably in about a month. ill check pricing and probably get all on rock auto since i need rear brakes/rotors and they are cheapest usually.

so just upper/lower and bypass for the coolant hoses?

upper/lower look about 25 each from rock.

i havent looked at this setup but since no one said change the thermostat i'm assuming not needed to change? on the rock auto site they have pics and its a really weird one

2 RSA for sale. 7/32 good tread. berks county PA

166K on 2014 Blue Ray Metallic 2LTZ with 19s and nav. sadly new trans at 140K. Used to own 1995 DCM SS with only 260K!
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 07-30-2018
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Actually Lucky, the lower hose isn't a problem. It's that plastic bracket located in the center of that long hose for support. Trying not to break it is the problem and getting the snap-in to the metal lower brace to turn loose .......well you'll see. I'm also a fan of thermostat replacement at times like these too (my thermostat was nearly new so didn't replace it this time). I did put a new pressure cap on too, but that's up to you. Have fun.

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 07-30-2018
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I have a 2014 Impala 2LTZ.

The radiator drain petcock is on the right (passsenger) side of the vehicle, at the bottom of the radiator. There is a fabric close out panel that has to be removed (1-2 bolts) or loosened and lowered to access the drain.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 08-04-2018 Thread Starter
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ok i just looked under the hood


1. upper hose on the pass side looks cake. is the thermostat under the housing at the end of the hose, that appears to just snap off with being pried by a screwdriver. with about 3 plastic clips dang thats not a good system.



2. lower hose: i have no clue what the above comment means regarding a plastic bracket and long hose. the lower hose on the drivers side is pretty short and direct with nothing whatsoever supporting it. the clamps look horrible to get at though. ive never bought a spring clamp tool before but if it woudl actually work to help with that lower hose, id buy it for sure. maybe harborfreight sells an assorted kit?


3 the bypass hose to the tank looks pretty ez


4 i didnt look for the drain but assume thats cake since it has to be

2 RSA for sale. 7/32 good tread. berks county PA

166K on 2014 Blue Ray Metallic 2LTZ with 19s and nav. sadly new trans at 140K. Used to own 1995 DCM SS with only 260K!
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 08-04-2018
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The passenger side of the lower hose is where the thermostat is located. Look under the housing that the hose connects to after removing the two bolts (1 stud and one bolt)(also a press-on bracket for a nearby electrical line). The only driver side hose connection is the lower radiator hose. The bypass hose is located to the left of the upper radiator hose. Don't mistake the surge tank hose as the bypass hose.

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post #9 of (permalink) Old 08-04-2018 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred9505 View Post
The passenger side of the lower hose is where the thermostat is located. Look under the housing that the hose connects to after removing the two bolts (1 stud and one bolt)(also a press-on bracket for a nearby electrical line). The only driver side hose connection is the lower radiator hose. The bypass hose is located to the left of the upper radiator hose. Don't mistake the surge tank hose as the bypass hose.

there's a lower hose on the pass side? wow unsure how i missed that. never had a radiator that had 2 hoses on one side before. i found the one hose that goes from top passenger side to upper part of pass. raditor



regarding the drivers side there is a smaller hose right above where the raditor hose connects to the engine, that goes to the overflow tank. then theres a tiny hose going from the tank to the top of the engine.



i guess i gotta go out and try to find the hose im missing



has anyone changed these. i cannot see how you get a spring clamp tool in some of those tiny places.


edit: i just went out. we must be looking at 2 different engines . my driver side hose is lower than my pass side. and i cannot find the 2nd lower pass side you spoke of. just the upper one that presumably goes to the thermostat on the top pass. side of the engine

2 RSA for sale. 7/32 good tread. berks county PA

166K on 2014 Blue Ray Metallic 2LTZ with 19s and nav. sadly new trans at 140K. Used to own 1995 DCM SS with only 260K!
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 08-04-2018
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I think a picture or two would be *really* helpful here. :-)
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post #11 of (permalink) Old 08-04-2018
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Could this be the usual confusion of people talking about two different generations of the Impala ?, or two different Engines ?
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post #12 of (permalink) Old 08-04-2018 Thread Starter
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my 2ltz is in my sig and i assumed they all have the 3.6. perhaps i'm wrong? its been a while since i looked at specs . i thought the 1ltz was a 4 banger and 2 was a 6

2 RSA for sale. 7/32 good tread. berks county PA

166K on 2014 Blue Ray Metallic 2LTZ with 19s and nav. sadly new trans at 140K. Used to own 1995 DCM SS with only 260K!
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Yup I think it might be?
Quote:
Originally Posted by luckydriver View Post
my 2ltz is in my sig and i assumed they all have the 3.6. perhaps i'm wrong? its been a while since i looked at specs . i thought the 1ltz was a 4 banger and 2 was a 6
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post #14 of (permalink) Old 08-04-2018
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I hereby withdraw from this post. I don't want to give wrong information again. Embarrassing.

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post #15 of (permalink) Old 08-05-2018 Thread Starter
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here are pics of the drivers side where it goes to engine then to radiator. it seems tight and miserable to get in there. anyone done it? even the hose to the tank looks not fun. i'm assuming where the drivers side goes to engine that its the water pump. how the heck do you get to that? dang looks expensive.


ugh pics too big

2 RSA for sale. 7/32 good tread. berks county PA

166K on 2014 Blue Ray Metallic 2LTZ with 19s and nav. sadly new trans at 140K. Used to own 1995 DCM SS with only 260K!
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