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post #16 of (permalink) Old 08-05-2018 Thread Starter
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here are pics of the drivers side where it goes to engine then to radiator. it seems tight and miserable to get in there. anyone done it? even the hose to the tank looks not fun. i'm assuming where the drivers side goes to engine that its the water pump. how the heck do you get to that? dang looks expensive.
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2 RSA for sale. 7/32 good tread. berks county PA

188K on 2014 Blue Ray Metallic 2LTZ with 19s and nav. sadly new trans at 140K. Used to own 1995 DCM SS with only 260K!
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post #17 of (permalink) Old 08-05-2018 Thread Starter
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i assume thermostat under here? i dont like that that just snaps on..seems not so great of a way to make a connection
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2 RSA for sale. 7/32 good tread. berks county PA

188K on 2014 Blue Ray Metallic 2LTZ with 19s and nav. sadly new trans at 140K. Used to own 1995 DCM SS with only 260K!
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id appreciate if someone could look at lowes/home depot and show me exactly what pliers id use to get at all those clamps. thanks

2 RSA for sale. 7/32 good tread. berks county PA

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post #19 of (permalink) Old 08-07-2018 Thread Starter
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these look good but unsure that mechanism on the end would fit in tight places.




also would appreciate confirmation that in post 17 that the thermostat is in there . i still cannot believe i'm relying on plastic tension to keep my car cool.

2 RSA for sale. 7/32 good tread. berks county PA

188K on 2014 Blue Ray Metallic 2LTZ with 19s and nav. sadly new trans at 140K. Used to own 1995 DCM SS with only 260K!
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so any idea what this is? how do you check the operation of radiator. wouldnt that be if the car stayed below 180 and no leaks lol. no way they get 40 bucks for just looking at your hoses and saying, yea, they are good. what a steal!

and what parts and materials are used to visually inspect hoses and clamps. to me refresh is new hoses and new fluid!

Cooling System Refresh
$39.95
Check for proper operation of radiator and pump. Inspect hoses, clamps and belts. Plus tax, if applicable. Not valid with other offers. Present offer at time of service. Includes parts and materials. Pricing could vary for some makes and models. Diesel and trucks extra. Expires: 09/20/2018

2 RSA for sale. 7/32 good tread. berks county PA

188K on 2014 Blue Ray Metallic 2LTZ with 19s and nav. sadly new trans at 140K. Used to own 1995 DCM SS with only 260K!
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post #21 of (permalink) Old 08-13-2018 Thread Starter
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so um..wow..my guy wants 350 for coolant change and hoses. i think thats a tad too much. i woulda done 200 to save my labor but dang. how hard really is this? even asssuming 100 for 2 hoses( i forgot to ask for breakdown) thats a hell of a lot. i guess ill be knuckling it if i decide to do the hoses.



almost tempted not to but you know what happens when you tempt fate.

2 RSA for sale. 7/32 good tread. berks county PA

188K on 2014 Blue Ray Metallic 2LTZ with 19s and nav. sadly new trans at 140K. Used to own 1995 DCM SS with only 260K!
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post #22 of (permalink) Old 09-02-2018
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I changed the engine coolant in my 2014 Impala 2LTZ (3.6L V-6) today. Very easy.

Raise the vehicle, and remove five, 7mm nuts that hold a fabric close-out panel on the RF underside. This will give you easy access to the radiator drain petcock and drain nipple. If you look closely, the five nuts allow the panel to hang down, but not be removed. There are other nuts that hold adjacent panels and the fabric panel. Remove the coolant reservoir cap.

Attach a 1/4 inch ID vinyl or rubber hose to the drain nipple and place it in an empty container. Turn the drain petcock counterclockwise several turns and the coolant will begin to drain. I did not use any tools, just my hand. The drain opened very easily. Close the drain when the fluid is finished draining.

I used a Lisle model 24680 spill-proof funnel with attachments to fill the coolant via the reservoir. The product is available on Amazon for $20.10 (PRIME only).

I filled the system with distilled water, then ran it to operating temperature, then drained it again. The spill-proof funnel prevents the reservoir from overflowing when you are filling it. It is a very clever design and has numerous attachments and sizes for many different vehicle.

The engine coolant capacity is 9.9 quarts (so about 5 quarts of Dexcool coolant). I added the coolant and a little distilled water. Iíll keep an eye on the reservoir jug in case a few air bubbles are purged and more fluid needs to be added after several drive cycles.

The build date on my vehicle is 8/2013 - so I changed the coolant based upon the five year coolant change interval. The vehicle only has 35,xxx miles.

When I drained the coolant for the first time, one gallon and one pint came out. The fluid looked new. I did not change any hoses or clamps, but I did inspect everything. I have a radiator hose clamp pliers - which are specially made to open (and hold open) the constant-tension spring clamps. They are available at most auto parts stores.

I have my dealer change the oil + filter + rotate the tires ($49.95 + tax, includes six quarts of Dexos Full Syntetic oil). I asked about a coolant change. The dealer wanted $159.00 (for up to one gallon of antifreeze) + an additional charge for an additional quart of coolant + a shop supplies charge (donít you just love that rip-off?) + tax. About $210.

I bought one gallon of Prestone DexCool coolant for $16.95 and the Lisle funnel for $20.10, + tax. I had about one-half gallon of DexCool leftover from a another vehicle coolant change. Big savings and I know it was done right.
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post #23 of (permalink) Old 09-02-2018 Thread Starter
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thanks for the write up. is it part of the normal process to fill with water then drain again? is the reservoir tank open when you do this?



seems like other than the petcock no other place to drain which is good. i have to wait for cooler weather to do mine as i'm gonna change all hoses as well and bought the 50 dollar pliers set to help me out. looks tight in spaces.



what is the reason for the 20 dollar funnel vs a 99 cent one? is there kickback on the fluid trying to get out?

2 RSA for sale. 7/32 good tread. berks county PA

188K on 2014 Blue Ray Metallic 2LTZ with 19s and nav. sadly new trans at 140K. Used to own 1995 DCM SS with only 260K!
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Originally Posted by luckydriver View Post
thanks for the write up. is it part of the normal process to fill with water then drain again? is the reservoir tank open when you do this?



seems like other than the petcock no other place to drain which is good. i have to wait for cooler weather to do mine as i'm gonna change all hoses as well and bought the 50 dollar pliers set to help me out. looks tight in spaces.



what is the reason for the 20 dollar funnel vs a 99 cent one? is there kickback on the fluid trying to get out?


If you drain the radiator once, original some of the original coolant mixture remains in the engine block. I fill with distilled water, run, and drain to get more of the original stuff out. Iíve done this for years with a variety of cars in the family.

The funnel has numerous fittings and several caps, which enable you to install them in the reservoir jug (many vehicle no longer have a radiator cap - including the 2014 Impala). After you install the fitting and cap, the funnel installs in the fitting. You can fill the reservoir, then start the engine and continue filling the reservoir.

Do not fill the large, see-through funnel more than one-third full. As the engine heats up, the thermostat opens and air is expelled - it ďburpsĒ into the drip less funnel and does not overflow the reservoir or funnel. If the coolant continues to flow into the reservoir, you can add more coolant to the funnel (not more than one-third full to prevent an overflow).

Once filled and the air is expelled, if there is any coolant remaining in the funnel - you can squeeze the upper radiator hose to force some coolant back into the funnel - and then insert a long plug (included in kit) into the funnel. Release the squeezed upper hose and the coolant level will drop slightly in the reservoir. Then simply lift the funnel (with the plug) and return it to your original coolant container (or if filling through the radiator cap opening), add the coolant to the overflow jug.

The funnel system can also be installed in a radiator cap opening, including one that is mounted at an angle.

I have changed coolant on many vehicles for more than 40+ years. This funnel tool and fittings was one of the easiest to use, prevented any overflow or spillage of coolant, and was worth every penny - especially if you work on multiple vehicles.
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post #25 of (permalink) Old 09-03-2018
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Garage
Bleed Tube

Thanks for the information. My question is, Is there a bleed tube in case you get an air lock? I had this on my 2006 Malibu when changed antifreeze.

Bill
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Thanks for the information. My question is, Is there a bleed tube in case you get an air lock? I had this on my 2006 Malibu when changed antifreeze.
Do you mean a bleed tube on the engine or coolant pipes?

When using this Lisle spill-proof funnel, the coolant level (in the funnel) is higher than the radiator or engine. As such, as the coolant heats at idle, the air bubbles purge and travel up into the funnel - and then additional coolant flows into the reservoir or radiator opening.

You can run the engine at about 2 or 3 thousand RPMís to move the coolant and push any air bubbles or locks through the system - and into the funnel opening.

It is a very useful, clever and inexpensive tool system. There are YouTube videos by Lisle on how to use the tool if my explanations are confusing.
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post #27 of (permalink) Old 09-04-2018 Thread Starter
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i watched 3 vids online and im a much more visual person so they helped

2 RSA for sale. 7/32 good tread. berks county PA

188K on 2014 Blue Ray Metallic 2LTZ with 19s and nav. sadly new trans at 140K. Used to own 1995 DCM SS with only 260K!
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post #28 of (permalink) Old 09-07-2018 Thread Starter
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funnel delivered today from cheap ebay guy

60 degree day sunday for working on car.

i sense success. i hope since i got the spring clamp pliers kit

2 RSA for sale. 7/32 good tread. berks county PA

188K on 2014 Blue Ray Metallic 2LTZ with 19s and nav. sadly new trans at 140K. Used to own 1995 DCM SS with only 260K!
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post #29 of (permalink) Old 09-23-2018 Thread Starter
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im doing this right now. i drained it and then filled up the tank and it took about 1.5 gallons of water . i ran it to 187degrees. the upper hose got hot which means the stat opened i presume. but the level in the tank never moved. never burped but did change from clear to not clear so some AF did get up there. but now i fear i'm juts going to get 1.5 gallons in when i know we need 9.9 qt in. is this normal


i also decided only to do the uppper hose. even with the right tools it looked really not fun to do the lower and the tank. i couldnt even see the nubs on the spring clip to put my tool on


one other thing. i guess i'm using the wrong fitting as water runs out the top bleed opening of the tank which i didnt even know existed.


edit: changed to the correct adapter. i believe i bled it well but even though i drained it 3 times, no more than 5 or so qt came out.

2 RSA for sale. 7/32 good tread. berks county PA

188K on 2014 Blue Ray Metallic 2LTZ with 19s and nav. sadly new trans at 140K. Used to own 1995 DCM SS with only 260K!

Last edited by luckydriver; 09-23-2018 at 01:30 PM.
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