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post #1 of (permalink) Old 09-22-2017 Thread Starter
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AC dying..sigh..time for trade?

new issue. AC seems to be slowly dying. over the weekend came out of the store and i thought it wasnt working right on the way home but yesterday on my 70 mile drive i normally would get so cold on LO that i have to turn it up but i never did. the air didnt feel all that cool either but my thermometer is in the trunk and i didnt test it. i did turn off the AC and it did then get really hot so it IS working ' a bit' but no way as constantly cold as it should be

i know its a closed system and if it needs freon it means theres a leak but dang, i cannot catch a break here, this along with my clunking noise really makes me wonder what is next. only 120K on the car and i need it to last at least 300K. there should be a law that as long as you have car payments you have zero repair costs

so as a mere mortal is there anything i can test/check myself

i have a can of freon i bought earlier this year for my gfs car so there is a gauge on there.

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 09-22-2017
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Originally Posted by luckydriver View Post
so as a mere mortal is there anything i can test/check myself

i have a can of freon i bought earlier this year for my gfs car so there is a gauge on there.
Don't think those gauges are particularly reliable. Many reviews say theirs didnt work properly. Might be worth a try though just to see.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 09-22-2017
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Originally Posted by luckydriver View Post
new issue. AC seems to be slowly dying. over the weekend came out of the store and i thought it wasnt working right on the way home but yesterday on my 70 mile drive i normally would get so cold on LO that i have to turn it up but i never did. the air didnt feel all that cool either but my thermometer is in the trunk and i didnt test it. i did turn off the AC and it did then get really hot so it IS working ' a bit' but no way as constantly cold as it should be
One thought I had is that maybe the hot/cold blend door actuator has stopped in a position where air from the heater core is getting mixed in.

You mention clunking - is that drive train clunking? Or might it be an out-of-whack actuator clunking?

Fixing an actuator would be much easier than charging the freon.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 09-22-2017 Thread Starter
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funny you mention door. sometimes it seems like the air 'changes' in the car. i dont know how to describe it but you saying actuator makes me think maybe that is it.

but thing is. if i start off with remote link and my car is on LO AC shoudlnt it be ice cold from the start. even when i thought it was working right, it would take almost half hour on highway until i got to 'its freezing, let me increase the temp'

but i never got to that point yesterday

i do have a general history of things not being right. i know the temp is not a true temp. howevery somedays i am hot when AC is on 70 and other day freeze when its on 75. and this is after giving it time to settle in and adjust.

how do i check this actuator?

as an aside, since new every once in a while i hear something under the dash the sounds like a tink noise. if you took a screwdriver and put it on a window airconditioner fin and dragged it down the fins. it would be one of those clicks. i could go weeks or months without hearing it

------------------------------
clunking is 100% drive train. ive heard it when coasting then i accelerate...even when it downshifts coming to a red light and in stop and go traffic i can literally make it clunk when feathering the gas to go a few feet then let up then go again. its' 100% related to 'shifting' if you will.

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 09-22-2017
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might give you an idea of what they're speaking of with the blend doors. on my wifes cruze we found out (the hard way) that loose items in the glove box can block the fresh air blend door from pulling air as well....for hers it was remove glove box and you could see the blend doors for the fresh air and re-circulate (youtube was helpful on finding how to do this). once the bag was removed full ac flow and coldness returned.

just a thought.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 09-25-2017
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The A/C should last ten years at least
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 09-25-2017 Thread Starter
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ive tried keeping AC on low and just kicking down the fan when i get too cold. this is not a good solution but mostly seems to work.

i guess if the temp stays cold it has to be 'good' AC but when i mess with the dial thats when i have issues

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 09-25-2017
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Originally Posted by luckydriver View Post
ive tried keeping AC on low and just kicking down the fan when i get too cold. this is not a good solution but mostly seems to work.

i guess if the temp stays cold it has to be 'good' AC but when i mess with the dial thats when i have issues
Which dials? Can you be more specific?

If you turn the vent selector (aka mode selector) knob, watch for the AC compressor light going out which would surely cause it to get warmer. I seem to recall there being a position for that knob at which the compressor remains off. (Or I'm munging it with another of my vehicles )

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post #9 of (permalink) Old 09-26-2017 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by plano-doug View Post
Which dials? Can you be more specific?

If you turn the vent selector (aka mode selector) knob, watch for the AC compressor light going out which would surely cause it to get warmer. I seem to recall there being a position for that knob at which the compressor remains off. (Or I'm munging it with another of my vehicles )

Doug

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i have no vent selector knob in my car. only dials are temp and radio.

sometimes when its 70, i'm hot, other times at 78 i'm cold. thats the best way i can put it. last few days ive been keeping it pretty much at LO because its over 90 out . however since it is cold if i keep it on LO then i guess that leans heavily toward actuator.

'fiddling' with the dial seems to be when i have issues. ill just turn the fan down on LO to make it warmer. but then of course with no air flow in the car i fall asleep

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166K on 2014 Blue Ray Metallic 2LTZ with 19s and nav. sadly new trans at 140K. Used to own 1995 DCM SS with only 260K!
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 09-26-2017
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Another thing to check is with the AC on, feel the big refrigerant line going through the firewall, it should be cold or ice cold. If it is, you're AC system is working fine.
What you are describing does sound like an actuator that's jenked up.
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post #11 of (permalink) Old 10-23-2017
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Hey luckydriver,
theres about 5 computers involved in the decisions in the car when you turn the temp knob and request a temperature change. there are myriad modules, switches, sensors, connectors, wiring and refrigerant involved in this cars, and all of the actuators involved are a HUGE pita to replace compared to the 8th gen cars. Theres no real homebrew diagnostics that are easy and accurate enough to justify a repair unless you can find a leak....there a dye in the AC system that fluoresces under UV light, breakout a black light and check under the hood and see if you can find any yellowy green oily trails....thatll be a refrigerant leak

Beyond that you need a diagnostic pressure check and vehicle wide DTC check to start proper diag.

What couldnt hurt though is what people call a "global reset" This merely involves turning the car off, and disconnecting the negative battery cable for 5 minutes, and then hooking it back up. this little gem of a trick solves all kinds of software and sensor related anomalies. Akin to unplugging your PC or pulling battery from a smart phone.

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post #12 of (permalink) Old 10-27-2017 Thread Starter
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i put in a new battery last month so does that count as a reset?

now that we are out of AC season i will see how i do with the heat. i find myself constantly changing temps. i can never find one that stays long at happiness

2 RSA for sale. 7/32 good tread. berks county PA

166K on 2014 Blue Ray Metallic 2LTZ with 19s and nav. sadly new trans at 140K. Used to own 1995 DCM SS with only 260K!
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post #13 of (permalink) Old 10-27-2017
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Originally Posted by luckydriver View Post
i put in a new battery last month so does that count as a reset?

now that we are out of AC season i will see how i do with the heat. i find myself constantly changing temps. i can never find one that stays long at happiness
Yes changing battery counts

Are you using automatic mode?

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post #14 of (permalink) Old 10-27-2017 Thread Starter
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Yes changing battery counts

Are you using automatic mode?
i never use auto because i dont like the fan on high.

i guess it could be me getting old and i never put the thermometer in the vent but i just want the same consistent temp (whatever it is) being sent out the vents. if i dont mess with the dial, the temp should never change.

or so i thought.

2 RSA for sale. 7/32 good tread. berks county PA

166K on 2014 Blue Ray Metallic 2LTZ with 19s and nav. sadly new trans at 140K. Used to own 1995 DCM SS with only 260K!
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post #15 of (permalink) Old 10-27-2017
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You can go into the settings and tell it what fan speed to use when in auto mode. We leave ours on the medium, or whatever it is, setting.


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