2008 SS Impala w/intermittent no crank - Page 2 - Chevy Impala Forums
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post #16 of (permalink) Old 04-11-2017
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Are you sure there are relays and PCB inside?

The only pictures I've seen of disassembled recent GM fuse block look similar to Telcom punchdown block terminals made of copper with roughly 14ga solid copper wires snaking around to connect the punchdown terminals.

The problem with these is the fuse panel is in the engine compartment so you get vibration and moisture. Those cause the punchdowns loosen up over time allowing moisture and road salt/dirt that causes corrosion at the connection points. The solid copper wires can break off too.

If you can track down which connections are intermittent you can solder them with real 60:40 Pb:Sn electronics grade solder.

This is a Trailblazer fuse panel. I believe the Impala is similar.
2008 SS Impala w/intermittent no crank-gm-fuse-panel.jpg
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Last edited by hatzie; 04-11-2017 at 08:44 AM.
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post #17 of (permalink) Old 04-11-2017
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I'm not sure how to post a picture.
10 PCB relays for sure, 9ea P3CNO12W1 and 1ea 742-355-22. Next to each relay is a surface mount resistor marked "122"
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post #18 of (permalink) Old 04-11-2017
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Can you see cold solder joints or lifted traces?

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post #19 of (permalink) Old 04-11-2017
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The board looks fine, no corrosion, cold solder joints or bad tracks. It doesnít pop or creak if the board is flexed.
My wipers were also parking to high and the new fuse box also fixed that. One of the PCB relays is for the wipers.
Thanks again tjr1973
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post #20 of (permalink) Old 04-12-2017
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As stated the relays are PCB Relay logic and non service. If something goes wrong past a inner box trace it can be replaced. At wrecking yard at times you can buy the part of the box that's bad. One on here said the part in their area was only 6 bucks.

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post #21 of (permalink) Old 04-15-2017
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Depends on your tooling...

A couple $0.35 relays, maybe a 122 resistor (1.2KΩ .25W SMD resistor), and some 60:40 Pb:Sn solder.

When your toy bench looks like this it's plenty serviceable. I usually just fix things as long as it doesn't have burnt ASICs, smoked programmable chips, or a burnt board.
I'm in the field right now but my bench at home is just as messy as this guys.

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post #22 of (permalink) Old 10-04-2018
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I *wish* my workbench was that "messy". That looks super organized compared to my bench right now!! :-)
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post #23 of (permalink) Old 10-04-2018
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He definitely has better toys than me. I don't have even an ancient inspection microscope and my Analog Oscilloscopes and function generator are from the 60's to the 80's.
Some fairly wide but shallow drawers under the benchtop limits the clutter without allowing the hand tools to get buried.
A couple deeper drawers allow things like soldering stations and bags of probes to get stashed when not in use... If I bother to use said drawers LOL...

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post #24 of (permalink) Old 12-11-2018
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Did you replace the fuse box harnesses too?
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post #25 of (permalink) Old 12-11-2018
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Originally Posted by Bruce R Cameron View Post
Did you replace the fuse box harnesses too?
No, just the fuse box. It comes with all new fuses and relays. A 100% fix for my car.
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post #26 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill58 View Post
I'm not sure how to post a picture.
10 PCB relays for sure, 9ea P3CNO12W1 and 1ea 742-355-22. Next to each relay is a surface mount resistor marked "122"
I'm wondering if those might be diodes for clamping the flyback off the relay coils.

Doug

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post #27 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2018
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If they're marked 122 they're likely 220Ω 5% resistors.
Resistors will dissipate some of the inductive spikes from the field collapse in the relay coil but they're not as effective as a flyback diode.
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post #28 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hatzie View Post
If they're marked 122 they're likely 220Ω 5% resistors.
Resistors will dissipate some of the inductive spikes from the field collapse in the relay coil but they're not as effective as a flyback diode.
I'll buy that - I'm woefully behind on markings for SMD discretes and passives. But I do know BBROYGBVGW

Besides having a resistor or diode near the relay, I seem to recall seeing some relay drivers which have a diode built-in. So maybe there's some additional protection at the other end of the cable(s).

Doug

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If your socket set is all the same brand, you might be a city slicker.

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post #29 of (permalink) Old 12-13-2018
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I'm having a similar issue, and I will try to replace the under-hood fuse box if its only around $125.00. Any insight on where you guys bought it from? I'm having trouble finding a new one.
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post #30 of (permalink) Old 12-13-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plano-doug View Post
I'll buy that - I'm woefully behind on markings for SMD discretes and passives. But I do know BBROYGBVGW

Besides having a resistor or diode near the relay, I seem to recall seeing some relay drivers which have a diode built-in. So maybe there's some additional protection at the other end of the cable(s).

Doug

.
You can get ISO relays with built-in Flyback/Snubber Diodes across the coils. That's why I generally wire ISO relay sockets with + on 86 and - on 85...
It wouldn't be shocking to find PC board mount relays that have snubbers as well.

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