Started the 100,000 mile maintenance (3.6 engine) - Chevy Impala Forums
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 09-15-2019 Thread Starter
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Started the 100,000 mile maintenance (3.6 engine)

Sitting at 104,000 miles so I started the recommended maintenance last week with a normal oil change. I also ran some GM intake cleaner through the intake and dumped a can of Seafoam into the gas tank and filled it up. The intake cleaning was simple. I disconnected the hose at the back middle of the intake and used an IV style bottle and hose to slowly let it suck into the engine
I idled the engine at 2000 rpms while I did this. I used a pool stick wedged between the seat and gas pedal. I got a can of CRC intake cleaner designed for direct injection engines and I will do this one day this week or next weekend. I am going to order AC Delco stock replacement plugs since the local parts stores want a fortune for them.

Today I drained and filled the coolant. On the radiator on he lower passenger side, there is a white plug that you loosen and the coolant will drain from the bottom of the radiator into your drain pan. So what I did was drain and fill with water until the water was running clear. I also removed the overflow container and cleaned it out. There are 3 nuts securing it to the inner fender, 2 up top and 1 on the bottom sorta hidden. I removed the front half of the air intake to give my large hands enough room to get a wrench on the nut. All you do is loose it enough the pull the bottle up and out. I refilled the coolant with Peak long life coolant since I had a gallon left over from the water pump job on my Yukon. So I went and bought a gallon of concentrated coolant and a gallon of distilled water to give me 3 gallons of new coolant. At one point, I was idling the car while pushing the old coolant out and new coolant in... don't do this if you get easily distracted... I put almost 2 gallons of new coolant in so I may drain and fill again just to make sure all of the old Dexcool is out. I have 8 gallons of old coolant to take to the recycling center at some point this week.

So long story short, oil change, coolant drain and fill, intake cleaning and then new spark plugs to follow and that is it. Belt still looks good and the trans fluid looks good and it better, since it has been drained and filled 3 times so far during my ownership. I will probably do the power steering fluid and the brake fluid will get flushed when it is brake job time.

If anyone plans on doing any of this stuff and you have questions, just ask. I chose to use Peak extended life coolant because I have used it in other Dexcool vehicles I have owned and have not had one problem with it. It is also cheaper, especially at Harbor Freight or Dollar General. I wouldn't go with anything but AC Delco on the spark plugs.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 09-16-2019
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If you have not already done it, would add a trans fluid drain and change to your list there.

Used autolite iridiums on the first plug change on our 2012, at around 100,000 miles. The factory plugs were not bad at all. Changed plugs again not too long back, had about 60,000 on the autolites, went with bosch iridiums. Depending on how the bosch plugs last may go back with the factory plugs next time around, should have our car around 250,000 miles by that time.

My 6 year constantly asks why. What adults can learn from 5 and 6 year olds, to listen with your ears and mind open. Hard to learn when you don't listen ......
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 09-16-2019
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Be sure to run the ABS bleed from your scan tool when you do the brake fluid flush. It's just a procedure that exercises the ABS motors in a specific sequence to flush out the cruddy stagnant fluid. I believe it's in the Tech 2 ABS Special-Functions menu under Automated Bleed.

I do it when I swap brake pads as well.

Whomever owned my trucks didn't do it when they worked on the brakes. When I got em they had mushy feeling brake pedals.
I used it as a bargaining chip even tho I was pretty sure it was a quick fixit job with the Tech 2. I fixed the last one before I left the car lot and I flushed the pitch black fluid as soon as I got home. I ran it again twice mid-flush to get that nasty rusty fluid out.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 09-17-2019 Thread Starter
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If you have not already done it, would add a trans fluid drain and change to your list there.

Used autolite iridiums on the first plug change on our 2012, at around 100,000 miles. The factory plugs were not bad at all. Changed plugs again not too long back, had about 60,000 on the autolites, went with bosch iridiums. Depending on how the bosch plugs last may go back with the factory plugs next time around, should have our car around 250,000 miles by that time.
I have done 3 trans fluid drain and fills... roughly 30,000 miles apart... probably due in another 10k or so. When Autozone puts the Castrol Dex 6 on sale I will buy it.

I'm just gonna use the AC plugs when I replace them.

2014 Chevy Impala LTZ Limited
- My daily driver... 5% Window Tint, Rosen GM1210 Stereo, Polk Audio Components and 6x9s, Pioneer, Kenwood amps and sub, Addco Rear Sway Bar, ZZP Strut Tower Braces, LED fogs and low beams, back up and interior lighting, SS dash, stereo and shifter trim.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 09-17-2019 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by hatzie View Post
Be sure to run the ABS bleed from your scan tool when you do the brake fluid flush. It's just a procedure that exercises the ABS motors in a specific sequence to flush out the cruddy stagnant fluid. I believe it's in the Tech 2 ABS Special-Functions menu under Automated Bleed.

I do it when I swap brake pads as well.

Whomever owned my trucks didn't do it when they worked on the brakes. When I got em they had mushy feeling brake pedals.
I used it as a bargaining chip even tho I was pretty sure it was a quick fixit job with the Tech 2. I fixed the last one before I left the car lot and I flushed the pitch black fluid as soon as I got home. I ran it again twice mid-flush to get that nasty rusty fluid out.
My scan tool doesn't scan ABS codes let alone bump the ABS module to flush the fluid. But let me ask you this... I have been told that leaving the ignition key in the ON position keeps the ABS pump valves open and when you flush the brake fluid, it will flush the ABS system as well. I know that when I have had a stubborn car that wouldn't bleed well, I have turned the key to the on position and gotten it to finally get a stiff pedal.

This also worked when I replaced the brake lines from the ABS module to the rear diff in my Yukon. I couldn't get the system bled well enough until I turned the key on and finally got it going... it has been at least a year and the brake pedal is still rock solid in it. Thoughts?
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2014 Chevy Impala LTZ Limited
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2004 GMC Yukon SLT
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 09-17-2019
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The right Bi-Directional scan tools can tell the ABS computer to activate the impluse motors in a specific sequence. They're well worth having for other reasons but this is one.

I've tried that key on and bleed method on several second revision 95 and later GMT400 trucks before I bought AutoEnginuity GM extensions, back when they didn't cost a mint. Shortly after that I bought my Tech 2 Clone direct from China. AE has come a long way... but it's not inexpensive anymore and the coverage can be spotty on stuff you suddenly need.

If you can make the key-on and bleed method work well enough for you that's great. I figure there's probably air trapped in that rats nest that'll bite me someday if I don't exercise it properly. Your rig so do what gives you warm fuzzies.

Supposedly some of the mid and low end Launch and Autel products will do this on Domestic vehicles.

The WiFi MDI full clones are pretty cheap now. Hacked copies of Tech2Win work on the earlier rigs and GDS on the later ones for personal vehicles. You can flash modules with the latest GM calibrations without a trip to the dealer... You need a Delco TDS subscription but it's not terribly high priced for an individual.

If I were doing this professionally I'd look into the higher end Autel or Launch or even Snap On or OTC products. I could write the cost off my taxes somewhat in that case.

One size doesn't fit all even with the mandated conformity of OBD II and CAN. Guys that do this every day have several tools in their arsenal because one will do some things better on some rigs than the others and some will not do certain operations at all even tho they are supposed to.

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Last edited by hatzie; 09-17-2019 at 01:28 PM.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 09-17-2019 Thread Starter
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I have been eyeballing the Autel at Harbor Freight but sneaking that $800 past my wife for something I won't use every day is going to be a bitch... one day hopefully.

It isn't so much the warm fuzzies as is the solid brake pedal after bleeding. One of the older techs in the shop I worked at taught me that and to this day, I have not had an issue with it. It may not work for the latest newer cars out there, but it has worked when one person gravity bleeding, one person pressure bleeding, and the 2 person pump the pedal and hold methods have not worked. When I get to the point of flushing it I will post my results. As of now I am still on the factory rotors and pads but I would guess it will be time for replacements before too long.
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2014 Chevy Impala LTZ Limited
- My daily driver... 5% Window Tint, Rosen GM1210 Stereo, Polk Audio Components and 6x9s, Pioneer, Kenwood amps and sub, Addco Rear Sway Bar, ZZP Strut Tower Braces, LED fogs and low beams, back up and interior lighting, SS dash, stereo and shifter trim.
2004 Pontiac GTO
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I'm just gonna use the AC plugs when I replace them.

Did you replace your spark plugs and did you have to remove the intake manifold to get to the rear plugs?
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Did you replace your spark plugs and did you have to remove the intake manifold to get to the rear plugs?

https://www.impalaforums.com/9th-gen...ark-plugs.html
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