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post #16 of (permalink) Old 07-27-2019
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Originally Posted by Sebastian2010impala View Post
So my 2010 3.5L has been starting to act weird. When driving at highway speeds around 65-70 mph my rpm gauge starts bouncing up and down and if I keep giving it gas it eventually drops the gauge to 0 yet the engine is still running. This randomly started happening one day and never knew what it could have been. When this happens the engine seems to be running off balance almost like a misfire but I donít know what it could be. It has clean oil and oil filter. Also sometimes the car stalls on me when hitting a bump or when steering a tight corner but starts back up no problem, sometimes it might struggle a bit but it always starts back up. It gives me codes p0011 and p0336. The car still drives when the gauge drops to 0 but it really lacks power and shifts rough. But all I have to do is shut it off and turn it back on and rpm gauge starts working perfectly fine. HELP!
I agree with Doug!
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post #17 of (permalink) Old 07-28-2019
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When I remove the engine mounts, do I need to unplug/disconnect any wires/hoses that might get tugged on when I lean the engine forward ??
There should be enough slack in all that stuff to tolerate the short distance moved. Unless someone has re-routed some wire harness, for example, you shouldn't need to loosen or disconnect anything.

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post #18 of (permalink) Old 07-29-2019 Thread Starter
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Alright thanks everyone I’ll let y’all know if I’m successful with this
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post #19 of (permalink) Old 07-29-2019 Thread Starter
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Forgot to ask... do I have to jack up the vehicle at all or can it be done without jacking the car. Because I see you mention that it can only be seen from underneath the car
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post #20 of (permalink) Old 07-29-2019
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Originally Posted by Sebastian2010impala View Post
Forgot to ask... do I have to jack up the vehicle at all or can it be done without jacking the car. Because I see you mention that it can only be seen from underneath the car
If you want to look at it, you need to raise it enough to get under the car. If you know where it is and what you are trying to grab, the car doesn't need to be raised to access it from the top.If you have a helper around, it may be easier to have them guide you from underneath the car as you are reaching in from the side.

Also that was the correct sensor by the looks of it. As well, you should have no issues moving the engine forward. It doesn't move far, just an inch or two to give you some extra clearance. If its due...this is a great time to do the spark plugs as well.
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post #21 of (permalink) Old 07-29-2019
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Forgot to ask... do I have to jack up the vehicle at all or can it be done without jacking the car. Because I see you mention that it can only be seen from underneath the car
I'm pretty sure you'll need to jack it up. If you have a pair of ramps, that will work well.

As I recall, I had a good workout crawling under the car, then getting back up to look from the topside while standing on a concrete block looking into the dark behind the motor, then getting back underneath, and so on...

In fact, at one point, I think I enlisted my wife to watch from the top while I was wrenching from underneath. Seems like I was on my back reaching around the transaxle to get my wrench on the sensor as my wife assisted from the top. She might have even been holding a mirror for me, but there's a lot of cobwebs in that corner of my brain

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post #22 of (permalink) Old 07-30-2019 Thread Starter
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Do I have to remove the belts or can it be done without removing them ???
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post #23 of (permalink) Old 07-30-2019
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Originally Posted by Sebastian2010impala View Post
Do I have to remove the belts or can it be done without removing them ???
I don't think so. Not that I recall.

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post #24 of (permalink) Old 08-03-2019
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Originally Posted by reubenswinks View Post
If you got some basic tools and don't mind getting a little dirty, I would try it yourself. It is not complicated, the sensor is just in a difficult spot to reach so it isn't much fun. Mine didn't need the relearn procedure. If yours does, I believe you would need to bring it somewhere that has a tech2 programmer or something similar. It is not something you can do yourself unless you have the right programmer (which is 700-2000$ depending which one you get).
An Asian Tech 2 costs around $250 now. Mine was just slightly more several years ago. Once you have one it doesn't cost any more the second, third, fourth, ... time you need to use it. Taking it to a shop for electronic diagnosis costs over and over and will quickly exceed the cost of the tool.
You should be able to sell it for around $150-$200 if you keep it nicely once you sell the car and go with a newer GM or some other nameplate.
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2009 Impala SS
"Speed never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary... that's what gets you." Jeremy Clarkson
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