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post #1 of (permalink) Old 07-20-2019 Thread Starter
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2012 Impala LTZ door locks not locking

I have seen a few threads about this. Here is how mine is doing.

The key fob will unlock the doors but wont lock them. The door button will unlock them but wont lock them.

It no longer locks when you put the car in gear or go above a certain mph (cant remember which way it was).

Trunk pop still works by the key fob and button in the car. The fuse for the door locks is not blown. When I put my hand on each relay in there I can feel and hear them clicking when I try to lock or unlock. I can even hear the door locks trying to unlock but they don't move. Any other ideas?

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 07-20-2019
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Originally Posted by Nimrod_R View Post
I have seen a few threads about this. Here is how mine is doing.

The key fob will unlock the doors but wont lock them. The door button will unlock them but wont lock them.

It no longer locks when you put the car in gear or go above a certain mph (cant remember which way it was).

Trunk pop still works by the key fob and button in the car. The fuse for the door locks is not blown. When I put my hand on each relay in there I can feel and hear them clicking when I try to lock or unlock. I can even hear the door locks trying to unlock but they don't move. Any other ideas?
I printed the schematic for the door locks and have been studying it. There are three relays: one unlocks the driver's door, one unlocks the other three doors, and the third relay locks all four doors.

The three relays share a common ground, G302, so, if UNLOCK works, the ground is good and can be ruled out.

You say you can feel the LOCK relay clicking, and can hear the door lock solenoids trying to move. That makes me think there's high resistance in the path and only a little current is getting thru, enough to tickle the solenoids but not fully throw them.

We know the wires are good because those same wires are used to unlock the doors. So that leaves me focused on the door lock relay in the fuse box. I'm thinking one of the contacts in it is shot which results in the aforementioned high resistance.

I think the relay is soldered in place. Not sure the level of effort required to swap it, but if I was shotgunning a quick fix, I'd replace that relay.

To verify the proposed fix, with the relay removed, jumper between the COM (30) and NO pins (87). That should lock the doors.

HTH.

Doug

.

Last edited by plano-doug; 07-20-2019 at 08:34 PM.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 07-21-2019 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plano-doug View Post
I printed the schematic for the door locks and have been studying it. There are three relays: one unlocks the driver's door, one unlocks the other three doors, and the third relay locks all four doors.

The three relays share a common ground, G302, so, if UNLOCK works, the ground is good and can be ruled out.

You say you can feel the LOCK relay clicking, and can hear the door lock solenoids trying to move. That makes me think there's high resistance in the path and only a little current is getting thru, enough to tickle the solenoids but not fully throw them.

We know the wires are good because those same wires are used to unlock the doors. So that leaves me focused on the door lock relay in the fuse box. I'm thinking one of the contacts in it is shot which results in the aforementioned high resistance.

I think the relay is soldered in place. Not sure the level of effort required to swap it, but if I was shotgunning a quick fix, I'd replace that relay.

To verify the proposed fix, with the relay removed, jumper between the COM (30) and NO pins (87). That should lock the doors.

HTH.

Doug

.
Thanks for your thoughts on the matter.

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