How are your 2012-2016 Impala's holding up? - Chevy Impala Forums
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 03-30-2019 Thread Starter
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How are your 2012-2016 Impala's holding up?

I bought mine with 30K in 2013, as it was a former Enterprise rental for about $14K. I had a Stabilty-trac harness replaced right after I bought it, the Fuel pump failed a year ago @ 114K, and the Vapor Canister failed after a tune up, but other wise no other issues.

Currently @ 133K, there is a motor that doesnt work to lift the seat up and down on both the driver and passenger side seats, power driver mirror gets jammed, the annoying rattling exhaust GM refused to fix as it is "normal" to them, is still there can can be heard at just the right RPM on the expressway, random interior plastics rattles, the car has never been as smooth at idle after a tuneup @107K, and the transmission is starting to shift rougher when its cold.

I have kept up with the maintenance on this car and wont hesitate to put it on a 10hr drive, but also dont feel like this car is going to last until 200K+ miles.

How has your Impala been holding up?
Any major problems?
Are you satisfied with the build quality?
Do you feel it will last 10yrs/200K+ miles?
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 03-31-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAAN View Post
How has your Impala been holding up?
Any major problems?
Are you satisfied with the build quality?
Do you feel it will last 10yrs/200K+ miles?
Ours is a 2012 with a little over 160,000 miles. Bought brand new at a chevy gm dealer. No tunes, all factory. Mostly driven by my wife.

Have had to replace 3 wheel bearing hub assemblies. Replaced one blend door actuator.
Nothing major.
Not dissatisfied. It is what it is, a 4 door sedan with a 300 hp engine in a price range we(working class) could afford. Car still gets very good mpg on the highway and averages somewhere around 26.5 with mixed driving where average speed last I checked was around 45 mph.
I think our car will easily go over 200,000, is 8 years old now. Car drives pretty well like it did the day we drove it home from dealer.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 03-31-2019
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I bought my 13 LT with 170K on it. I have no clue about the maintenance of it before beside the salesman, who knows my parents, told me the guy who owned it kept up on it. No records that I could find, car fax.

The only issue I've had so far is I had to replace one of the evap sensors. I'm hoping it last somewhat beyond 200K. I didn't pay a whole lot for it because of the miles on it.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 03-31-2019
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I have no doubt the car will go to 200k miles, as long as you maintain it. Here is what I have done so far... I bought it almost 3 years ago at 34,000 miles, dealer tech wife owned prior to me....

- synthetic oil changes approximately 5000 mile intervals, sometimes shorter, sometimes longer
- drained and filled trans fluid 3 times with Castrol DeX VI
- replaced front hub bearings
- had front brake rotors turned because of pulsation, cleaned and greased everything while in there, stock factory pads still have a lot of life in them
- new tires and an alignment over a year ago
- installed the Addco rear sway bar and Moog rear end links on it when I bought it because I took them off the Grand Prix I traded in for the Impala
- upgraded the stereo to all aftermarket stuff, Rosen head unit, 10x better than stock

You saw my catch can thread I started... the next big maintenance day will be pulling the intake and cleaning it and the valves, installing a catch can, replacing the spark plugs, and flushing and replacing the coolant. I got a good look at the belt when I replaced the battery this week and it looked good, so I will look again when I do the intake job. I will probably flush the brake fluid and power steering fluid at that time as well. So, my 100K maintenance will turn into a project... What else is new?

I do think the Impala will go the distance. In the next 2 years and couple months of payments I have left, there will be another 50-60,000 miles on the car, easily. I know the suspension will eventually need some attention and I know the rear hub bearings will eventually fail. The factory brakes will eventually wear out and need replacement, so no surprises with any of this. If I can survive a major powertrain item failure, I will be happy.

2014 Chevy Impala LTZ Limited
- My daily driver... 5% Window Tint, Rosen GM1210 Stereo, Polk Audio Components and 6x9s, Pioneer, Kenwood amps and sub, Addco Rear Sway Bar, ZZP Strut Tower Braces, LED fogs and low beams, back up and interior lighting, SS dash, stereo and shifter trim.
2004 Pontiac GTO
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 03-31-2019
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2013 Impala

I have a 2013 Impala LT. Bought in early 14 with 8000 miles. It was a ex rental unit out of Detroit. Sunroof, cloth guts, alloys. Now has 85k miles. Aside from new tires, new brakes all a round, new battery, Reg. oil changes at around 3k. Only 2 dealer visits for the key insert and exaust cam position act. solenoid valve. (One each side done one at a time! PIA) HVAC system still working correctly, A/C ice cold. Inside of car still quiet and solid. No shakes or rattles. Black Paint still shiny and clean! Still gotta take it to the painless dent guy to fix a crease in the drivers door! Runs well, starts right up in the frigid NY winters, tranny shifts well. Car itself sucks in the snow with these fat all season tires! My old Buick or Cadillac plow thru the snow just fine. Overall a good choice for a 4 door car as they can be bought cheap used.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 03-31-2019
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2013 bought in november 2016 brakes and stereo upgraded as soon as I got the car. I warped the oe breaks avoiding a deer then as soon as I got back up to 65 it happened again.
I changed the trans fluid 3 times with the engine oil to get it back to color. Air filter as well, did not notice any unusual oil pooling in the intake.

Right blend door actuator failed
power steering leak noted at the rack, no action taken I just avoid getting to full lock and have advised the lady to do the same, seems to have slowed/stopped
Tune up, plugs looked suspiciously new OEM. finished the job so I have a mileage on the plugs to go by.

last week the driver blend door started popping and was replaced.

since 98k I have only needed basic maintenance and another set of tires due to my own neglect and running the psi too high.

I have noted the engine knocks/pings some if I do the throttle just right when under a load. feeels like it's pulling timing when it does. I need to get the valves cleaned I am sure.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 03-31-2019
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Our 2014 has been exceptionally reliable. The only issue we had was the fuel evaporator canister. Many less problems than I had in my 2009 Super Sport.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 03-31-2019
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^ sonjaab, are the exhaust cam position act. solenoid valves common failure parts on the LFX engine?

Last edited by sheila; 04-01-2019 at 11:41 AM.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 04-01-2019 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12 lt View Post
Ours is a 2012 with a little over 160,000 miles. Bought brand new at a chevy gm dealer. No tunes, all factory. Mostly driven by my wife.

Have had to replace 3 wheel bearing hub assemblies. Replaced one blend door actuator.
Nothing major.
Not dissatisfied. It is what it is, a 4 door sedan with a 300 hp engine in a price range we(working class) could afford. Car still gets very good mpg on the highway and averages somewhere around 26.5 with mixed driving where average speed last I checked was around 45 mph.
I think our car will easily go over 200,000, is 8 years old now. Car drives pretty well like it did the day we drove it home from dealer.
Ive been through 2 Blend Doors so far. Not fun when the drivers side was Hot and Passenger side was ice cold when it failed in the middle of winter.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 04-01-2019 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WickedGoat View Post
I have no doubt the car will go to 200k miles, as long as you maintain it. Here is what I have done so far... I bought it almost 3 years ago at 34,000 miles, dealer tech wife owned prior to me....

- synthetic oil changes approximately 5000 mile intervals, sometimes shorter, sometimes longer
- drained and filled trans fluid 3 times with Castrol DeX VI
- replaced front hub bearings
- had front brake rotors turned because of pulsation, cleaned and greased everything while in there, stock factory pads still have a lot of life in them
- new tires and an alignment over a year ago
- installed the Addco rear sway bar and Moog rear end links on it when I bought it because I took them off the Grand Prix I traded in for the Impala
- upgraded the stereo to all aftermarket stuff, Rosen head unit, 10x better than stock

You saw my catch can thread I started... the next big maintenance day will be pulling the intake and cleaning it and the valves, installing a catch can, replacing the spark plugs, and flushing and replacing the coolant. I got a good look at the belt when I replaced the battery this week and it looked good, so I will look again when I do the intake job. I will probably flush the brake fluid and power steering fluid at that time as well. So, my 100K maintenance will turn into a project... What else is new?

I do think the Impala will go the distance. In the next 2 years and couple months of payments I have left, there will be another 50-60,000 miles on the car, easily. I know the suspension will eventually need some attention and I know the rear hub bearings will eventually fail. The factory brakes will eventually wear out and need replacement, so no surprises with any of this. If I can survive a major powertrain item failure, I will be happy.
I switched to synthetic at 100K and change it every 5500miles.

Really wish I didnt pay over $200 for a Dealer Transmission Fluid Flush at 90K and will probably just di a drain and fill every 40K from now on.

Change the Brakes and Rotors my self last yr, and God himself tighten those rotor screws and it took all my strength to loosen them, but running good on Ceramic pads, so far.


After changing the PCV Valve, and running a can of CRC Intake Cleaner and adding some Gumout w/PA afterward, it did smooth out a bit more, but might do another Intake spraying since I waited 130K do so. One think I learned on the intake cleaning, is DO NOT floor it after you cleaned it, as you will hear all sorts of clattering in the engine right after and a check engine light due to misfires. I cleared it and drove it for 10 miles on the expressway and it was fine afterward.
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post #11 of (permalink) Old 04-01-2019
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Mine's been acceptable so far. Got it @ 67k from an older couple and it has been well maintained. Now at 108k. My MPG has always been around 24.

Replaced evap sensor.
Replaced rear brake pads.
Replaced alternator. It went bad, replaced with 170amp version.
Replaced air filter.
Replaced things like bulbs, etc.

I've always used full synthetic, per the manual. Replaced oil filter every change, and change frequency has been right before 10k, per the manual and have not had any issues.
About every other oil chance, I use Lucas Synthetic oil stabilizer in place of the 6th quart.

Replaced stock head unity with Rosen GM-1010. Interface and features are quirky, but the BBE sound is phenomenal. Way better than factory.
Replaced Grill Emblem, as the original fell off. Replaced with one that lights up.

Upcoming maint would be the front pads, and if I can, I'll probably get all discs turned as well.

2013 LTZ

Last edited by kamikazeedriver; 04-01-2019 at 12:44 PM. Reason: unneccesary word before evap sensor
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post #12 of (permalink) Old 04-01-2019
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Bought our 2016 used 11 months ago. Was a rental car and it was certified. Best vehicle we could afford that still came with a warranty ($12,000 plus tax title)

Just needed two front wheel hubs at 57,000 miles last month. Covered by bumper to bumper certified.

Paint scraped away on passenger door by the hinge as the fender was a little crooked. Dealer fixed the scrape, but I need to grind and touchup the paint damage.

Not thrilled with the dodgy and slow feel of the transmission at times. From reading on here, it is just the way the GM automatic works. I hope that is right, but the powertrain certified warranty is until May, 2022.

Great fuel economy for a 300hp engine. Although it does sometimes feel like the engine is being choked out and leaving some power behind. Probably environmental crap bogging down the engine.

Thinking of paying for a complete check over before the 12month certified warranty expires. Not worried about the powertrain as much since that warranty lasts longer, but suspension, wheels and other repairs can really add up when no longer under warranty.
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post #13 of (permalink) Old 04-01-2019
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Interesting how some have had issues with the brakes as well. Over 160,000 and still on the original factory rotors and will possibly get one more brake job out of them. There have been a few VERY hard stops in this car while I was driving it. Put duralast cmax pads on the fronts somewhere after 50,000 miles but well before 100,000, rotors were ok, just cleaned them up. Did backs a little after 100,000 and went with the duralast cmax on them as well. Back rotors had minor fine hairline grooves, had them turned. Car stops great, and no dust issues. I probably need to recheck the fronts soon.

Oil changes on our 2012 were done mostly at the dealer for probably the first 70,000 or so miles. They used the wrong oil filter(pf48) for several of those. Car has always had the correct oil(5w-30) either dealer dexos or when I have changed the oil have used castrol magnatec dexos. Oil changed somewhere between every 5000 to 6000 miles or roughly 35% give or take on the olm.

Did end up with a new issue about a day after posting to this thread, or at least that was when my wife told me about it anyway. Have a dead spot in the accelerator/throttle when it is first pressed to accelerate. Seems like a hesitation, but once you get past that point the engine speed accelerates just fine. Ordered a new pedal/accelerator sensor from rock auto, supposed to be in Thursday, hopefully that will resolve that issue.

On the 4th set of tires, just put on a set of pirelli p4 four season plus less than a month ago.
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post #14 of (permalink) Old 04-02-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheila View Post
^ sonjaab, are the exhaust cam position act. solenoid valves common failure parts on the LFX engine?
No idea. They didnt effect the way the car ran. It just set a SES light both times. They are just some external parts attached to the engine under the beauty cover. It was just a PIA failing one at a time so it was 2 visits to the local crummy Chevy dealer in Oswego NY with no loaners or courtesy transportation!

The SAME crummy Chevy dealer in Oswego NY who couldnt diagnose a SES light and emission issue so the car wouldn't pass the NY plug in emission test for yearly inspection while under the 3/36 warranty.
I suggested a Tech 2 plug in and got the blowoff and was told nothing they could do!
A complaint to the GM customer 800 service line sent me to another Chevy dealer and YUP a simple zap from a Tech 2 unit hookup cured the problem!
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post #15 of (permalink) Old 04-02-2019
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Let's see. I have a 2012 Impala LT with 176,000 miles on it. I've dealt with the following:

- Thermostat wouldn't close
- Replaced back hub assemblies
- P0300/1 misfirings
- Driver's seat actuator is dead
- Blend door motor in the glove compartment is dead (I can't get my hand back there to replace it)
- Front tie-rod was messed up (Boy, do tires lose tread quickly when that thing is messed up)
- Transmission drain and fill (preventative maintenance)
- Replaced my EVAP purge valves twice
- Replaced spark plugs (much easier to do on an Impala than on a Bonneville)

I'm looking to replace my back PCV valve, but I can't seem to find it. All in all, it's been okay. And there haven't been too many horrifying problems.
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