How are your 2012-2016 Impala's holding up? - Page 2 - Chevy Impala Forums
Chevy Impala 8th Gen Discussion W-Body 2006-2013 (2014+ Limited). Discuss all Chevy Impala 8th Generation Performance and Technical Discussion here.

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post #16 of (permalink) Old 04-02-2019 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dtsimpala View Post
Let's see. I have a 2012 Impala LT with 176,000 miles on it. I've dealt with the following:

- Thermostat wouldn't close
- Replaced back hub assemblies
- P0300/1 misfirings
- Driver's seat actuator is dead
- Blend door motor in the glove compartment is dead (I can't get my hand back there to replace it)
- Front tie-rod was messed up (Boy, do tires lose tread quickly when that thing is messed up)
- Transmission drain and fill (preventative maintenance)
- Replaced my EVAP purge valves twice
- Replaced spark plugs (much easier to do on an Impala than on a Bonneville)

I'm looking to replace my back PCV valve, but I can't seem to find it. All in all, it's been okay. And there haven't been too many horrifying problems.
What sucks with those seat motors is, it requires you to buy the entire frame assembly for $300 if you want to replace the motors

PCV Valve is on the other side of the air intake tube behind the throttle body. Not much space, so you will have to come at it from the passenger side with some pliers and just keep pulling up and wiggle until it comes out.

PCV Valve - GM (12583384) | GMPartsDirect.com
Typiclayy $1 at the Dealer.
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post #17 of (permalink) Old 04-04-2019
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My 2013 LTZ has been pretty good so far. Took that pic last week.

I picked it up at 38,038 miles in February of 2016. It was a former rental car.
Right now she has just over 73k miles on her.
Put a set of all season Bridgestone Ecopia tires on last year. 235/50/18, $750 from Costco. ^^great tires, quiet, and drives straight.

Recently put a new alternator in, $300.

Only check engine light was a faulty Fuel Purge solenoid/valve, $50 at Autozone.
New rear brakes in September, going to order front brakes soon.
Had a new windshield put in last year.
New air filter/cabin air filter replaced regularly. Regular oil changes every 3k miles or so.
Had 2 12” subs for awhile, but sold them to pay bills, thinking about getting a single 15” in October.
Probably needs the tranny fluid replaced soon. Other than that, pretty reliable.

Have you guys noticed the windows going up slowly? Lol. My front passenger side is slower than the driver’s side.
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post #18 of (permalink) Old 04-06-2019
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2012 Impala fleet LT @ 240,000 miles

I purchased my 2012 late July 2013. It had 21,141 miles on it. It was a rental car that GM took back and sold through dealers. I primarily use it to commute back and forth to work - 75 miles each way / 150 miles a day / 750 miles a week. My commute includes about 50 miles on I-25 each way (75 mph speed limit) so it has spends a number hours near 80 mph every week. I average about 40,000 miles a year since I bought it.

I do all of my own maintenance.

I change the oil around 7,000 miles, recently changing closer to 6,000. It has started using about quart of oil in 6,000 miles since it went over 200,000. I buy oil filters in bulk (fleet pack of PF63 - 12 filters per box on eBay). I have 5 filters left in my third box.

I rotate my tires every 10,000 miles. I am on my 4th set of Hankook Optimo H727 tires.

I changed the spark plugs twice @ 95,000 and 202,000.

I have drained and refilled the transmission twice @ 95,000 and 201,000.

It has been very reliable. I have three times hit road debris that destroyed a tire and had to come home on the space saver spare. Only once have I had it towed home - when the oil pressure sensor died at 219,000. The engine always had good oil pressure but I didn't want to risk the engine when the low oil pressure light stayed on.

I had to replace 2 different blend door actuators @ 205,000 & 221,000 and one exhaust camshaft actuator @162,000.

I have replaced the brakes once so far at 170,000 miles (advantage of long highway commute). I replaced the battery at 194,000 miles.

I average in the high 20's for gas mileage. My best tank full was 33 mpg when we drove in back from a vacation in New Mexico.
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post #19 of (permalink) Old 04-07-2019
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Originally Posted by SAAN View Post
I switched to synthetic at 100K and change it every 5500miles.

Really wish I didnt pay over $200 for a Dealer Transmission Fluid Flush at 90K and will probably just di a drain and fill every 40K from now on.

Change the Brakes and Rotors my self last yr, and God himself tighten those rotor screws and it took all my strength to loosen them, but running good on Ceramic pads, so far.


After changing the PCV Valve, and running a can of CRC Intake Cleaner and adding some Gumout w/PA afterward, it did smooth out a bit more, but might do another Intake spraying since I waited 130K do so. One think I learned on the intake cleaning, is DO NOT floor it after you cleaned it, as you will hear all sorts of clattering in the engine right after and a check engine light due to misfires. I cleared it and drove it for 10 miles on the expressway and it was fine afterward.
Oh yeah, the rotor screws... you need to pick up an impact driver... it will make quick work of those screws every time. I bought a Craftsman years ago for $30. I also have a Snap On kit that a good friend gave me. Harbor Freight I think sells them for $20. You will never fight with those screws again. Look for my hub replacement how to thread... I took a picture of the tool.

The dealer cost for the trans fluid change is ridiculous. At that cost, that would have been at least 6 drain and fills doing it yourself, buying the Castrol Dex 6 on sale at Autozone, and being able to say you did it every 30 or 40,000 miles. It is easy to do. Keep the car level, loosen the drain plug, let it fly, replace the plug, refill, test drive real good to get the trans temp up, check fluid and top as needed.

When it is time for brakes, I am going to do the police parts upgrade.

2014 Chevy Impala LTZ Limited
- My daily driver... 5% Window Tint, Rosen GM1210 Stereo, Polk Audio Components and 6x9s, Pioneer, Kenwood amps and sub, Addco Rear Sway Bar, ZZP Strut Tower Braces, LED fogs and low beams, back up and interior lighting, SS dash, stereo and shifter trim.
2004 Pontiac GTO
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post #20 of (permalink) Old 04-08-2019
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I picked up my 2016 LTZ from Hertz Car Sales about 2.5 years ago with 22K miles on the clock. The car now has a little over 45K, and has needed only 2 unscheduled services.

I replaced the factory battery last summer and don't feel bad about that, since automotive batteries rarely last longer than 3 years here due to our summer heat. The only other thing was a gas cap replacement fairly recently. The ratchet inside the factory cap was no longer forcing a seal.

Other than those two things, just scheduled maintenance procedures. I send a used oil sample to Blackstone Labs with every oil change, and the analysis reports have all been outstanding.



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post #21 of (permalink) Old 04-08-2019
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Bought my 16 LT with 38k late 2017. I have 68k on it now so I drive it a lot. It was a CPO, only repairs done under warranty was some traction sensor on the wheel and washer fluid sensor.
As soon as the warranty ended I had to replace purge valve solenoid. Just last week I replaced a blend door actuator, I didnt know how annoying that noise really was. And today I was met with this surprise. I mean, theyre the tires that came with the car when it was new- Im matching that up with the date code. Goodyear LS2s lasted about 70k. Not bad but probably going to get some Tiger Paws. Had them on my Grand Prix before it left me.


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post #22 of (permalink) Old 04-09-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tesla View Post

The only other thing was a gas cap replacement fairly recently. The ratchet inside the factory cap was no longer forcing a seal.

Did the gas cap issue cause a check engine light to go off, or did you just notice it was ratcheting too easy? Thinking I have a similar issue, but I have not had an engine light go off.

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post #23 of (permalink) Old 04-09-2019
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Originally Posted by VladThe View Post
Did the gas cap issue cause a check engine light to go off, or did you just notice it was ratcheting too easy? Thinking I have a similar issue, but I have not had an engine light go off.

Yes it did. But I had noticed the cap feeling loose and coming off too easily during the 2 - 3 fill-ups prior to the ECM throwing a code. It may take a while for yours to trigger a code, as well.


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post #24 of (permalink) Old 04-09-2019
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SOmething I learned about the gas cap is that you should NOT put pressure on the cap while tightening it. If you do that, it doesn't attach properly. You just have to turn it without putting pressure on it and then it attaches fine.
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post #25 of (permalink) Old 04-09-2019
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Originally Posted by jtrosky View Post
SOmething I learned about the gas cap is that you should NOT put pressure on the cap while tightening it. If you do that, it doesn't attach properly. You just have to turn it without putting pressure on it and then it attaches fine.
Probably good advice. But the cap is not going to seal properly if the teeth inside the ratchet mechanism are worn out. When I finally replaced mine, I could hold the neck in one hand and turn the cap with the other. It made clicky-clicky sounds like it was doing something constructive, but wasn't applying any torque to the neck piece.

Too many ham-fisted renters filling up before turning the car in, I suspect.
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post #26 of (permalink) Old 04-12-2019
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Mine is outside the 2012-16 range, but based on my 2008 Impala, you may have your's a long time. I bought mine used with 23,000km from a dealership. I'm at 291,000KM (180,800 miles) now and haven't had any major/expensive repairs. Changed the blend door actuator last year; I change the left front headlight bulb every 3 years for some unknown reason; a control arm replaced this year; Still the original spark plug wires and plugs (I dread trying to remove them now); I get a P0172 issue every 2 or 3 years; Krown rustproof every year; My mechanic says there is no damn rust on the thing and I don't see any. Four road trips across the USA but mostly city driving, say 75%.
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post #27 of (permalink) Old 04-12-2019
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What is this KM you speak of

I actually work in medical science and statistics, so I like the metric system. Just feel obliged to be an obnoxious Yank and give you crap about it.
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post #28 of (permalink) Old 04-14-2019
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When you replaced the gas cap, did it come with a new tether? I tried getting my gas gas cap off to replace it with a locking gas cap (with no tether) but couldn't see any way to remove the tether without cutting it.
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The tether on my 13 was where you push the plastic side in to get it out of the hole. Not sure what kind of pin you call that.

Kind of like this
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post #30 of (permalink) Old 04-15-2019
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Originally Posted by 2016LimtedLTZ View Post
When you replaced the gas cap, did it come with a new tether? I tried getting my gas gas cap off to replace it with a locking gas cap (with no tether) but couldn't see any way to remove the tether without cutting it.

Yes, a new tether was supplied with the cap. As I recall, it's the AC Delco # GT 294 cap available on Amazon for about $12.

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