2007 Chevy Impala: Rear Valve Cover Removal - Page 2 - Chevy Impala Forums
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post #16 of (permalink) Old 03-14-2019
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decided to make it two posts

the pictures are 90+% in chronological order, none were switched around but I did take a few later in the process as I remembered something but most are where they should be.

I was unable to disconnect the Oxygen sensor wire so I let the ignition module hang down there in back sitting upside down on top of the exhaust basically.

The valve cover bolts have a "stop" so if you tighten them down gradually and you keep going sooner or later you won't be able to go further, don't want to put a ton of torque on them but you won't "squish" the gasket either (at least that was my experience), you should be able to go after them with a 3/8 drive and twist them down until they "stop."

I never found specific information on this so I tightened the water crossover bolts to 18 ft.lbs.
There are SIX of these and the FRONT ones are a different length from the rears, probably best to remember each one's specific location

I also removed two of the idler pulleys, not sure if this was needed and none of the documentation and videos I saw mentioned it so I didn't include it in the process.

Last but not least after it was all said and done I let the car sit for 24 hours to allow the RTV sealant to cure proper (and this may not be required but I did not want to do this job twice LOL).

Other notes:
It is a REALLY good idea to replace your spark plugs and wires while you do the valve cover gaskets, more so if it hasn't been done in over 50k miles.

As tough as this job seemed I didn't find it too much harder than the front one, keep in mind I had done the spark plugs and wires and the front one first.
Also I did watch several videos and read quite a bit and studied the whole thing...
Both valve cover gaskets took me about 4-5 hours each.
Don't forget to disconnect one of the battery cables before you start working on this.
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Last edited by sidemouse; 03-14-2019 at 11:17 PM.
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post #17 of (permalink) Old 03-16-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidemouse View Post
decided to make it two posts

the pictures are 90+% in chronological order, none were switched around but I did take a few later in the process as I remembered something but most are where they should be.

I was unable to disconnect the Oxygen sensor wire so I let the ignition module hang down there in back sitting upside down on top of the exhaust basically.

The valve cover bolts have a "stop" so if you tighten them down gradually and you keep going sooner or later you won't be able to go further, don't want to put a ton of torque on them but you won't "squish" the gasket either (at least that was my experience), you should be able to go after them with a 3/8 drive and twist them down until they "stop."

I never found specific information on this so I tightened the water crossover bolts to 18 ft.lbs.
There are SIX of these and the FRONT ones are a different length from the rears, probably best to remember each one's specific location

I also removed two of the idler pulleys, not sure if this was needed and none of the documentation and videos I saw mentioned it so I didn't include it in the process.

Last but not least after it was all said and done I let the car sit for 24 hours to allow the RTV sealant to cure proper (and this may not be required but I did not want to do this job twice LOL).

Other notes:
It is a REALLY good idea to replace your spark plugs and wires while you do the valve cover gaskets, more so if it hasn't been done in over 50k miles.

As tough as this job seemed I didn't find it too much harder than the front one, keep in mind I had done the spark plugs and wires and the front one first.
Also I did watch several videos and read quite a bit and studied the whole thing...
Both valve cover gaskets took me about 4-5 hours each.
Don't forget to disconnect one of the battery cables before you start working on this.
Nice work! I took the power steering pump and moved it out of the way and put my coolant overflow tank in the same location as you did. Like you, I'm unsure if it makes any difference by removing the idler pulleys. The GM manual said they have to come off, but after taking mine off, it didn't appear that was needed.
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