AC Delco Spark Plugs - Install Instructions? - Page 2 - Chevy Impala Forums
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post #16 of (permalink) Old 05-11-2018
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Originally Posted by WickedGoat View Post
How many miles on your car and how did the plugs look? There is a rebate on AC plugs till the end of this month so I am going to grab some for both the Impala and the Yukon.
I was about at 90k. Plugs didn’t look that bad, not too “burnt”. Glad I went ahead and did them though. Also, I always use just a bit of anti-seize on plugs.

2012 LT - Silver Ice Metallic
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post #17 of (permalink) Old 05-11-2018
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For those, like myself, who like a little more detail, here's an 8-minute in-depth video ...

Cheers!

T-

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post #18 of (permalink) Old 05-11-2018
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@Tesla: Great video!
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post #19 of (permalink) Old 05-11-2018
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^+1 on the great video! Only things I'd add: Dab of never-seize on the plug threads, dielectric grease applied inside the boots with a small screwdriver or cotton swab and instead of dropping the new gapped plugs down in the plug hole, I insert them into a scrap piece of 3/8" hose and gently position and start them by hand with the hose attached. When plug is started, hose will stop or slip. Pull hose off and tighten with ratchet, extension and plug socket.
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post #20 of (permalink) Old 05-11-2018
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a short piece of 3/8" hose and insert the plug cap into the hose and then hand thread those plugs into the aluminum heads. Engine must be cold.

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post #21 of (permalink) Old 05-12-2018
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^ That's what she said, lol!!!
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post #22 of (permalink) Old 05-12-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheila View Post
^+1 on the great video! Only things I'd add: Dab of never-seize on the plug threads, dielectric grease applied inside the boots with a small screwdriver or cotton swab and instead of dropping the new gapped plugs down in the plug hole, I insert them into a scrap piece of 3/8" hose and gently position and start them by hand with the hose attached. When plug is started, hose will stop or slip. Pull hose off and tighten with ratchet, extension and plug socket.
I'm with you there, Sheila. A little dielectric grease, inside the boots not only improves performance, but also helps prevent the boots from sticking to the plugs next time they need changing. And I consider a bit of anti-seize an absolute must when threading steel into aluminum. Great for brass-to-steel fittings too, so I use it on my outside hose bibs to prevent the brass hose connectors from seizing to the bibs.

However, there's one thing about using anti-seize that everyone should be aware. Torque specs are almost invariably listed as "dry" numbers, and an adjustment is required for fasteners that are tightened "wet." I've seen 50% offered as the general rule of thumb for the torque reduction, but that seems excessive to me. I usually reduce the torque by 30%, and have never had an issue.



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... Engine must be cold.
Another great point, Fred!

Always let those aluminum heads cool down a little before pulling the old plugs. Aluminum has a higher coefficient of expansion than steel, so you risk buggering up the threads if you remove the plugs while the head is still really hot.

Cheers!

T-

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post #23 of (permalink) Old 05-12-2018
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My Impala idles like crap evry since I changed the rear 3 plugs a few months ago. I didnt remove the manifold, so Im wondering if there is now a small hose in one of the rubber hoses back by the plugs, but everything looks and feels fine.

I Bought a new plug and put it in the outer cylinder closes to the brake booster and no change, moved that plug to the middle and no change and swapped the #1 plug with the middle plug and no change. Only thing I didnt do was use dielectric grease when changing, but I have reseated the coil packs back there too, so im at a loss now of whats causing this, as my scan tool is not sowing any misfires, so im guessing O2 or a PITA vacuum leak somewhere.
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post #24 of (permalink) Old 05-12-2018
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Originally Posted by SAAN View Post
My Impala idles like crap evry since I changed the rear 3 plugs a few months ago. I didnt remove the manifold, so Im wondering if there is now a small hose in one of the rubber hoses back by the plugs, but everything looks and feels fine.

I Bought a new plug and put it in the outer cylinder closes to the brake booster and no change, moved that plug to the middle and no change and swapped the #1 plug with the middle plug and no change. Only thing I didnt do was use dielectric grease when changing, but I have reseated the coil packs back there too, so im at a loss now of whats causing this, as my scan tool is not sowing any misfires, so im guessing O2 or a PITA vacuum leak somewhere.
You're sure you installed the right plugs? If so, you could have knocked a vacuum hose loose, which is allowing unmetered air into the system. You may be able to track it down fairly quickly by spraying some carb cleaner around back there and listening for the idle speed to increase.

Cheers!

T-


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post #25 of (permalink) Old 05-29-2018 Thread Starter
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Tackled the plugs yesterday. Wish I would have taken pics of them to share! Not too rough of shape after 100k miles.

I was a little concerned with oil in one of the plug wells.. read a TSB about porous heads causing oil to leak in the spark plug well. Hoping this isn't the case here. It's not throwing any codes so I'll keep driving!

Also surprised that the factory plugs weren't gapped to spec. Measured them all at .038" where as the manual states .043". I cautiously gaped mine to .043".

I was able to sneak in a torque wrench on the rear plugs, using a 6" and a 3?" Extension. Got all 6 torqued without removing the intake manifold.

Running great after the change.
Thanks again crew!
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post #26 of (permalink) Old 05-30-2018
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^ Does this engine have the plug well rubber o-ring seals in the cam cover? If so, may need replaced. With Fords, they come included with a cam cover gasket set.
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