2012 Impala LTZ Fuel Pump Failure - Chevy Impala Forums
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 02-12-2018 Thread Starter
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2012 Impala LTZ Fuel Pump Failure

I have 115K miles on my car and I was driving down the road and the car shut off. I pulled the codes of P069E and P018B and I tried to restart it several times and it wouldnt start, so I had it towed to a Mechanic and it ended up being the Fuel Pump which ended up costing $600 to replace.

He told me that there was also more gas in the tank than the Fuel needle was reading, so I figured it was a actual Fuel Pump failure that caused the car to shut off.

1 week later, the car shuts off again and the needle was half way between the quarter mark and Empty and the same check engine codes of P069E and P018B come back along wit a P2535, so before having it towed I decided to buy a gallon of gas and the car started up, so I filled it up.

1 week later, the car the gas needle was the quarter mark and stating it was 100miles to go on the tank and I decided to fill it up to be safe and see how accurate the needle is. I ended up putting 16.8 gallons into a 17 gallon tank, so I was pretty much about to run out of gas again if I trusted what the car was reading.

Ive read others who had had Fuel Pump failures on these Impalas and even the newer body style ones too.

Has anyone else here ever experienced anything like this?

Does it sound like my issue is with the instrument cluster giving false Fuel readings or some sort of Fuel sending unit in the tank, since the problem is still occurring after having the Fuel Pump replaced?
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First question, is the pump and sending unit an integrated part for these cars?

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He told me that there was also more gas in the tank than the Fuel needle was reading,
I am not a mechanic, just an avid diy'er, but in my experience the problem you describe is likely the sending unit. If the sending unit and pump are not integrated then I would ask the mechanic why he did not mention the inaccurate reading issue prior to putting it back together.

If it is an integrated pump and sending unit, did the mechanic give you any warranty?

Far as the pump failure, have 140,000 on our 2012 an have not had an issue with the pump.

My 6 year constantly asks why. What adults can learn from 5 and 6 year olds, to listen with your ears and mind open. Hard to learn when you don't listen ......
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12 lt View Post
First question, is the pump and sending unit an integrated part for these cars?



I am not a mechanic, just an avid diy'er, but in my experience the problem you describe is likely the sending unit. If the sending unit and pump are not integrated then I would ask the mechanic why he did not mention the inaccurate reading issue prior to putting it back together.

If it is an integrated pump and sending unit, did the mechanic give you any warranty?

Far as the pump failure, have 140,000 on our 2012 an have not had an issue with the pump.
I had a Fuel Pump replaced on Taurus and the gauge was part of the pump, but on these Impala's it doesn't appear so.

https://www.gmpartsdirect.co/auto-pa...omponents-scat

Part #11 is the Level Sensor/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit and its $65, but im sure the labor would probably be 2-4 hours worth. The mechanic thinks its the instrument cluster. Im not sure how to narrow them down to which is the issue, other than going to a Chevy dealer to determine if the unit in the tank is giving false readings to the odometer or if the instrument cluster if displaying false readings form a working fuel sending unit form the tank . I know older Impala had a bunch of Fuel gauge, but have never really read anything with the 2010+ having problems.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAAN View Post
I had a Fuel Pump replaced on Taurus and the gauge was part of the pump, but on these Impala's it doesn't appear so.

https://www.gmpartsdirect.co/auto-pa...omponents-scat

Part #11 is the Level Sensor/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit and its $65, but im sure the labor would probably be 2-4 hours worth. The mechanic thinks its the instrument cluster. Im not sure how to narrow them down to which is the issue, other than going to a Chevy dealer to determine if the unit in the tank is giving false readings to the odometer or if the instrument cluster if displaying false readings form a working fuel sending unit form the tank . I know older Impala had a bunch of Fuel gauge, but have never really read anything with the 2010+ having problems.
There are two fuel pumps on your car, I believe - one in the tank, and a higher pressure pump somewhere under the hood (for the direct injection). Which one was replaced?

If the tank unit was replaced, and you're having essentially the same symptoms, I'd say the mechanic failed to fully diagnose it.

Based on the details you provided - largely a repeat of the same symptoms - it sounds like you needed a sending unit, not a pump.

Doug

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From the comment about the mechanic knowing the tank had inaccurate level in relation to the gauge,
I assumed he dropped the tank. Not sure how he would know any other way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SAAN View Post
I had a Fuel Pump replaced on Taurus and the gauge was part of the pump, but on these Impala's it doesn't appear so.

https://www.gmpartsdirect.co/auto-pa...omponents-scat

Part #11 is the Level Sensor/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit and its $65, but im sure the labor would probably be 2-4 hours worth. The mechanic thinks its the instrument cluster. Im not sure how to narrow them down to which is the issue, other than going to a Chevy dealer to determine if the unit in the tank is giving false readings to the odometer or if the instrument cluster if displaying false readings form a working fuel sending unit form the tank . I know older Impala had a bunch of Fuel gauge, but have never really read anything with the 2010+ having problems.
The sensor in the tank would read the level and as the level changes it sends that information to your gauges.

If the diagrams I looked at earlier were accurate it looks like the pump can be bought either way, with the sensor or without. If the gauge in your dash shows full and then later shows a quarter when the tank is really empty, then it would seem to me that the sensor is faulty.

Being that the mechanic told you that the fuel level in the tank did not match the gauge, he knew there was an issue there and he should have checked it when he replaced the unit and at the very least asked you if you wanted it replaced while he had the tank down.

My 6 year constantly asks why. What adults can learn from 5 and 6 year olds, to listen with your ears and mind open. Hard to learn when you don't listen ......
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAAN View Post
1 week later, the car shuts off again and the needle was half way between the quarter mark and Empty and the same check engine codes of P069E and P018B come back along wit a P2535, so before having it towed I decided to buy a gallon of gas and the car started up, so I filled it up.
Digging into this some more, I find (quoted from Google hits):


o P2535 CHEVROLET Ignition Switch Run/Start Position Circuit High

o P018B is a generic code that is defined as “Fuel pressure sensor “B” – circuit range/performance”, and is set when the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) detects an abnormal signal voltage from the fuel pressure sensor.

o OBD II fault code P069E is a generic code that is defined as “Fuel Pump Control Module Requested MIL Illumination”, and is set when the PCM receives a request from the Fuel Control Module to illuminate a warning light because a fault has occurred somewhere in the fuel system.

Several possibilities here. A bad sending unit could cause the P069E - erratic signals from one going bad could be detected by the body control module - the fuel level can't jump around so the software could detect it.

And the P018B might have been caused by running out of gas (due to the inaccurate gauge reading).

But when I mix in the P2535, it makes me wonder if there's an electrical problem that could be causing both the sending unit and the pump malfunction. Could one intermittent or resistive connection cause the fuel level to read incorrectly _and_ the fuel pump to cut out?

That said, I'm not sure how to proceed. But I would try to inspect the wiring from the ignition switch to the tank. And that could be a very involved task if the tank has to be dropped to see the wiring at the connectors on the fuel pump.

I'd be focused on the wiring and the tank. I doubt it's the instrument cluster - that's not gonna cause a fuel pressure issue. And I can't see a new sending unit fixing the P2535. ( Altho replacing it would at least reduce the number of possibilities )

Doug

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12 lt View Post
From the comment about the mechanic knowing the tank had inaccurate level in relation to the gauge,
I assumed he dropped the tank. Not sure how he would know any other way.



The sensor in the tank would read the level and as the level changes it sends that information to your gauges.

If the diagrams I looked at earlier were accurate it looks like the pump can be bought either way, with the sensor or without. If the gauge in your dash shows full and then later shows a quarter when the tank is really empty, then it would seem to me that the sensor is faulty.

Being that the mechanic told you that the fuel level in the tank did not match the gauge, he knew there was an issue there and he should have checked it when he replaced the unit and at the very least asked you if you wanted it replaced while he had the tank down.
Thats what I was wondering when I came to get the car, he said I might need to look into getting the instrument cluster fixed since it wasnt reading correctly, but this was after the car was put back together and running. He stated it was more gas than the needle was reading.
Had I known the part was separate from the pump and under $100, I would have told him to replace it. It took a week later and another fiuill up after that to realize the gauge works properly from Full to 1/4 and from there it doesnt really read correct, but with the computer claiming 100 miles left and its Empty, im guessing it is getting info from that unit in the tank.

I really wish I had just taken it to the dealer instead. it was the town truck guy that recommended this mechanic, since he stated the dealer charges alot for Fuel Pump replacements. The mechanic is actually good, but I think he could have used better judgement on the cluster vs sensor in the tank. Guess the money I saved getting it fixed is about to go right back into what would have fully fixed it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plano-doug View Post
Digging into this some more, I find (quoted from Google hits):


o P2535 CHEVROLET Ignition Switch Run/Start Position Circuit High

o P018B is a generic code that is defined as “Fuel pressure sensor “B” – circuit range/performance”, and is set when the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) detects an abnormal signal voltage from the fuel pressure sensor.

o OBD II fault code P069E is a generic code that is defined as “Fuel Pump Control Module Requested MIL Illumination”, and is set when the PCM receives a request from the Fuel Control Module to illuminate a warning light because a fault has occurred somewhere in the fuel system.

Several possibilities here. A bad sending unit could cause the P069E - erratic signals from one going bad could be detected by the body control module - the fuel level can't jump around so the software could detect it.

And the P018B might have been caused by running out of gas (due to the inaccurate gauge reading).

But when I mix in the P2535, it makes me wonder if there's an electrical problem that could be causing both the sending unit and the pump malfunction. Could one intermittent or resistive connection cause the fuel level to read incorrectly _and_ the fuel pump to cut out?

That said, I'm not sure how to proceed. But I would try to inspect the wiring from the ignition switch to the tank. And that could be a very involved task if the tank has to be dropped to see the wiring at the connectors on the fuel pump.

I'd be focused on the wiring and the tank. I doubt it's the instrument cluster - that's not gonna cause a fuel pressure issue. And I can't see a new sending unit fixing the P2535. ( Altho replacing it would at least reduce the number of possibilities )

Doug

.
The P069E and P018B came on when it broke down and when it cut off a week later. The P2535 came a week later when it ran out of gas. No codes have come back since, but I just have to keep an eye on the gas until I get this fixed.

other than that the only thing Ive been dealing with is the car idles rougher since I replaced the rear 3 spark plugs. Smooth in Park and Neutral, but rougher in drive, especially if AC is tuned on. Hopefully Im not getting my usual GM luck of the car self destructing after Ive had it trouble free for 4-5years.
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Where do the sender and in-tank pump get their grounds?

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Yeah with the pump working fine and the sending unit working fine until the car gets to a quarter I would be inclined to think it probably is not a wiring issue, but again that is my diy'er opinion and I am not a mechanic. A wiring issue would seem like it would give issues more often than only when the tank is around or under a quarter.

My 6 year constantly asks why. What adults can learn from 5 and 6 year olds, to listen with your ears and mind open. Hard to learn when you don't listen ......
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