I have the 2004 3.4L and have also replaced my sway bar with the Dorman 927-100. I neither touched the subframe, nor did I do anything with the steering shaft. It is possible to do this job just by dealing with the sway bar hardware.
Before starting, park somewhere where you have enough room on the passenger side of the vehicle for the better part of the new sway bar to fit next to the car. Then remove both front wheels and try to get a helper because it's hard to maneuver a long heavy bar from just one side. The stock one comes out from the passenger side, though I'm not sure if the driver side will work or not. You will have to wiggle it until you find the room for it. Just spend some time and you'll find a way to do it. I believe I did not have to remove any parts from the wheel area to do this. If you need to, the caliper bracket and rotor shouldn't be too hard; just make sure you know the torque specs and all that because the bracket is snugged pretty tight.
For installing the new bar, try to remember how you removed the old one so you can slide the new one in the same way. It's thicker, but now you have experience!
I would recommend trying to jack the front up high in case the sway bar has to poke down through the frame at some point. I did this a few years back and don't remember the details.
Come to think of it, you can probably disconnect the outer tie rod end if needed and that should swing the rotor and stuff away a bit more.
Of course, if you're getting paid to do this, it might be faster to drop subframes and all that, but otherwise you don't actually need to do all that. And no, I did not have to bend/break anything to do this job.
I would recommend getting the Moog end links because they will last longer and are dirt cheap. Or just any end link that isn't the usual rubber. I also just ordered Moog bar to frame bushings for front and rear (got a GMPP rear bar in the mail) so I'll be adding those as well.
Good luck. I hope this helps!