My 2004 Impala has the OEM sway bar, which I assume must be hollow according to many facts on the web. I want to replace it with the Dorman part 927-100. It's 3.4L base Impala. Do I really need to disconnect the intermediate steering shaft per Alldata info? I just watched a youtube video of a technician replacing that sway bar but its for a 2008 Impala, which has the identical suspension.


Let me know what should be done for a proper repair.

The Permalink to his exact post isn't able to be posted, but post #9 by Majestic 9C1 is my clue to this being possible without pulling the shafts.

https://www.impalaforums.com/8th-gen-...ml#post2492937



I think pulling the upper engine mount(s) from the bulkhead is required so there isn't anything holding the engine and cradle assembly from pivoting backward and down.

Here is the guy who said he didn't need to pull the shafts:



Quote: "you dont need to remove the intermediate shaft and you dont need to loosen the front bolts on the subframe... just take out the rear subframe bolts after you support it with a jack and lower it down about 3 inches and the swaybar slides right out."

Right now I've got my hands full with the Police Brakes Upgrade, and now installing a Rosen head unit, and my front sway bar is still in good shape, (and under warranty), so I haven't jumped into this job yet, but I've already researched it well, and can see it in my near future.

Come back after the job and post your experiences.

According to my factory shop manual, you should disconnect the steering shaft before dropping the subframe.

Failure to disconnect intermediate shaft from rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury. (Red font used in manual.)

It's only one bolt to loosen under the boot on the steering shaft, but you're supposed to replace the bolt with a new one. I think I pay about 3 bucks for these at the dealer. The p/n I have is GM 7845238 .

Also, be sure to tie the steering wheel in place before disconnecting the shaft. I prefer to have the wheels pointing straight ahead before starting.

Doug

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Does this apply to '13 and up, because when I look up the part (bolt), for the newer Impala and Impala Limited, I don't see it called out, as though the lower column is different.

Maybe this is why there are variable answers?

I'm not sure, Carbide. I've not dropped the subframe on my 07 Impala, only on my 02, which is more or less the same as the OP's 04.

When the subframe is dropped, with the rack in place, it's gonna stretch out the shaft. I think the manual's concern is over-stretching the shaft.

Watching the video, the guy dropped the subframe about 3.5". I'm concerned about what that's doing to the shaft. It may be OK, but I can't say without seeing it.

If I were to drop the subframe without disconnecting the shaft, I'd try to limit the drop to maybe 2" or so - just enough to get the sway bar out. And, needless to say, I'd be [email protected]$$ed the whole time

Doug

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So to disconnect the I/S or not?

In light of the manuals language, I'd disconnect it.

Obviously there's been damaged rack and pinions, and it's an easily avoidable thing to avoid the potential damage.

A rack is not something that is easily or cheaply replaced, when one bolt can avoid the risk.

I've decided to disconnect the I/S. But here is another question, should the bolt be reused?

I have the 2004 3.4L and have also replaced my sway bar with the Dorman 927-100. I neither touched the subframe, nor did I do anything with the steering shaft. It is possible to do this job just by dealing with the sway bar hardware.

Before starting, park somewhere where you have enough room on the passenger side of the vehicle for the better part of the new sway bar to fit next to the car. Then remove both front wheels and try to get a helper because it's hard to maneuver a long heavy bar from just one side. The stock one comes out from the passenger side, though I'm not sure if the driver side will work or not. You will have to wiggle it until you find the room for it. Just spend some time and you'll find a way to do it. I believe I did not have to remove any parts from the wheel area to do this. If you need to, the caliper bracket and rotor shouldn't be too hard; just make sure you know the torque specs and all that because the bracket is snugged pretty tight.

For installing the new bar, try to remember how you removed the old one so you can slide the new one in the same way. It's thicker, but now you have experience!

I would recommend trying to jack the front up high in case the sway bar has to poke down through the frame at some point. I did this a few years back and don't remember the details.

Come to think of it, you can probably disconnect the outer tie rod end if needed and that should swing the rotor and stuff away a bit more.

Of course, if you're getting paid to do this, it might be faster to drop subframes and all that, but otherwise you don't actually need to do all that. And no, I did not have to bend/break anything to do this job.

I would recommend getting the Moog end links because they will last longer and are dirt cheap. Or just any end link that isn't the usual rubber. I also just ordered Moog bar to frame bushings for front and rear (got a GMPP rear bar in the mail) so I'll be adding those as well.

Good luck. I hope this helps!

I have decided to keep the stock sway bar since it is still in very good shape. However, I done replaced its bushings with Moog parts. K80814. My car rides smoother and have better handling alone with new Moog sway bar links, the poly ones!

For anyone else interested in trying this job...I did the front sway bar on my 2004 and 2008. Mine snapped on the ends due to hollow OE construction and miles of road salt exposure.

Indeed it’s the same parts and procedures on both.

I did not disconnect the ISS (I probably should have but luckily did not damage anything) - I had the car level in the air with 4 jack stands to even out weight distribution and I was careful not to lower the subframe any more than I had to. You shouldn’t need to lower it more than a couple of inches. Just lower it enough to wiggle the bar out. It can be done by yourself but an extra hand helps. If you’re unsure or hesitant don’t attempt it..

The Dorman replacement kit comes with new end links which I used but they look cheap and I’m guessing they won’t last more than a couple of Ohio winters. After reading this, if I do ever have to do this again, I’ll disconnect the ISS to be safe.