1992 Custom Cruiser questions - Page 2 - Chevy Impala Forums
Buick Roadmaster General and Technical discussion for the B-Body Buick Roadmaster (1991-1996) and Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser (1991-1992).

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post #16 of (permalink) Old 04-21-2008 Thread Starter
 
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I don't have the mounting hardware but the plug in's matched.

They removed the wood grained facia across the dash. I thought it screwed off but it must be one piece? Now i have to get some two part epoxy and get it put back on there. The mounting hardware for my original radio left with the radio, so I am going to have to get longer bolts and shim this one out some. The bracket is about 2 inches away from the mount right now.

Drove the car about 400 miles this weekend. i am in love, however, my son (3) left the light on at the back hatch. So I hopped in last night for a ride and the battery was dead. Will have to jump it tonight.

Seat belts worked fine, or better than fine because as I mentioned the lap belts are actually easier to use with car seats.

I need to get piece of rod bent, ends flattened, and drilled out for an upper LATCH for my sons car seat.
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post #17 of (permalink) Old 04-21-2008 Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by DBeaSSt View Post
The Cruise will not work if the CHMSL is out or inop. I have even tried putting LED bulbs in my Cruiser and the cruise will not work with those in place.

Interestingly, this is not the case in the LT1 wagons. Cruise will still work fine if the light is out. I was able to put LED bulbs in my Roadmaster with no effect on the cruise.

HTH!
Is there a way to bypass this? Reason I ask is my terminals are toast, so no matter how much I clean them up I am never going to get them to work again. I kinda would like cruise on it, unlike my smaller cars that i tend to drive too fast, I looked down saturday and seen I was tooling along at 65.
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Well, I tried but couldn't make it work. But electricity isn't one of my strong points so possible I just did something wrong. In a nutshell the cruise is looking for the appropriate resistance to match that of the two light bulbs in the CHMSL. So in theory you could install a resistor inline with the brake light circuit to simulate this resistance. I tried to do this with my LED bulbs but the cruise still didn't work. Again, though, it's quite possible, I did something wrong. I ended up just putting the regular bulbs back in.

I presume the terminals you say are 'toast' are in the housing for the CHMSL/rear glass handle unit? This is quite common, I've had 6 or 7 B wagons and have had to do some work on these units on just about every one of them.

I would suggest you scour the local salvage yards or check out an online site such as www.car-part.com for a used unit. They are the same across all 91 - 96 wagons except the plastic casing colors. 91-3 are interior color plastic where the 94-6 are all black plastic. So find one and use that to rebuild yours.

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Is there a way to bypass this? Reason I ask is my terminals are toast, so no matter how much I clean them up I am never going to get them to work again. I kinda would like cruise on it, unlike my smaller cars that i tend to drive too fast, I looked down saturday and seen I was tooling along at 65.
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Originally Posted by RoadMonster View Post
Each door has two sliders
Actually, each door has three. The third one is on the short track that the motor/mechanism levers on.

I used to just change 2 like most people. Then I found out about the third while doing a "Window fix day" with OASIS. Then, one of my "fixed" windows quit working correctly because of the 3rd slider being broken. I wasn't happy about having to tear the door apart again.

Replace all three and be done with it.

3 sliders info on SS Forum

'96 Impala SS
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Am I looking at this right, these two contact points deliver power via that rusty piece of crap?

Why can't I clean up those points and install a wire on that bracket to the terminals on the lights?

Assuming I am getting power there. What should I set my amprobe at to check that?

I didnt even think of checking to see if I am even getting juice there.

Last edited by deuce228; 04-21-2008 at 03:35 PM.
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Im not registering anything back there. I guess i am just screwed on the cruise control because Im not going to chase down a gremlin.
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post #22 of (permalink) Old 04-22-2008
 
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The terminals in your first picture are certainly corroded. Both contacts should look like the one on the left. If you put a multimeter on those contacts with the brake pedal depressed, you should have voltage. Mine show 10-12 volts. I'm guessing you won't have any with the looks of the plungers there. Easy to replace, drill out the rivets and gently pull it out, unplug and replace. Not sure if you can get them new but certainly available on parts car.

As to the second picture, a good Scotch pad should clean those contacts up pretty well. Hard to be sure without seeing the whole thing but it doesn't look horrible. Sand those down and then (with known good bulbs installed) check for continuity across the contacts.

If you have a few dollars I would also strongly suggest checking out epay and picking up a shop manual. There are almost always a few for sale there and for not too much money.

Good luck!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBeaSSt View Post
The terminals in your first picture are certainly corroded. Both contacts should look like the one on the left. If you put a multimeter on those contacts with the brake pedal depressed, you should have voltage. Mine show 10-12 volts. I'm guessing you won't have any with the looks of the plungers there. Easy to replace, drill out the rivets and gently pull it out, unplug and replace. Not sure if you can get them new but certainly available on parts car.

As to the second picture, a good Scotch pad should clean those contacts up pretty well. Hard to be sure without seeing the whole thing but it doesn't look horrible. Sand those down and then (with known good bulbs installed) check for continuity across the contacts.

If you have a few dollars I would also strongly suggest checking out epay and picking up a shop manual. There are almost always a few for sale there and for not too much money.

Good luck!
I will check continuity but with the contacts coming to those two points inside the door are just as corroded. I cleaned them up but still not registering, so I doubt I will even bother to continue. Not much of a point chasing a gremlin on this old of a car that I don't plan to keep forever.

Thanks for the help, I will defanitly try ebay for a manual.
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Good luck to ya! If you want, I can snap a couple pics of mine for comparison. But it does look like replacing those components with stuff from a parts car would correct it for you.
Mike

Quote:
Originally Posted by deuce228 View Post
I will check continuity but with the contacts coming to those two points inside the door are just as corroded. I cleaned them up but still not registering, so I doubt I will even bother to continue. Not much of a point chasing a gremlin on this old of a car that I don't plan to keep forever.

Thanks for the help, I will defanitly try ebay for a manual.
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