Car- 1996 Rodemaster
Mileage 160k
Maintenance – Unknown / with the exception to new hoses, water pump, belt. {resent purchase}

Problem- Car dies without warning, just completely shuts off. Wait a few minutes {1-20} and it starts right back up. No CEL or obvious problems when driving, No visible problems under the hood. Idle is smooth and the car has been running flawlessly since I bought it a few weeks ago.
I’m thinking fuel pump, but I’ve never had an Opti just crap out on me either. I’ve asked about a fuel pressure gauge at AutoZone and O’rilleys nearby, none in stock. All this pisses me off because I have all the tools and spare parts to fix ANYTHING on this bucket at my home, 650 miles away But I’m not, so repairs will have to be made in a Hotel parking lot; they’re not going to be happy about this.

So place you’re bet, what’s your best guess?

^ well since he knows his roadies!!!!!^^^ but my second guess would def be a fuel pump we know how shitty they are after 100000, ive replaced 3 so far on 91 thru 95 chevy cars/ suv my suburban

Thanks for the help guys, looks like I’ll be taking my work truck home so I’ll be sure and pack an Ignition Module, it’s also been suggested I try the MAF. I did clean the MAF, it was dirty as hell but no luck. But I’ll bring another one back with me anyway just in case.

a fuel pumps 65 dollars and takes like an hour if u have tools and arent an idiot

Update:

Checked fuel pressure it seems to be fine, not an idiot but thanks poptart

To date I’ve replaced the coil and the ICM no luck same condition as posted above, previous owner insists the opti is new GM opti, and I have no reason to not to believe him. So, I have a new coil new ICM and a good opti, but I still have the same random stalling condition, any other ideas?

I’m borderline ready to install a new opti just to make sure for my damn myself, but I would like to eliminate other suspects first first.

Mmmmmm opti vent harness clogged, ozone buildup after running, car stalls. Just a guess. Remember...NEW doesn't always = GOOD.

Hey , That's a new (& cheap) opti.

How do you know the fuel pressure is good? Did you put a gauge on it? I picked up a pressure test kit at Harbor Freight for $35, I couldn't get one at AZ or Checker without ordering it either.

Well I haven’t ever had one clog up so I don’t know the affects of a clogged opti harness, but I have a known good spare so I'll give it a try.
When I went home to Florida I brought back my fuel pressure gauge and a ton of spare parts.

[QUOTE=96ssbbb;266987]Update:

Checked fuel pressure it seems to be fine, not an idiot but thanks poptart

QUOTE]

I wasnt saying ur an idiot its jsut that some people wont do there own mechanic works specially on something as easy as a 30 min fuel pump job!!!!!:eek:

Help! New User so I hope I'm not violating protocol here. I have the IDENTICAL problem with my 1995 LT1 Z28. New MSD Opti 6 months ago. Still has original coil, Ignition Control Module and Fuel Pump. Car has only 50K miles on it. I already had the grounds checked out. Before I go and replace the coil and ICM, what was the problem with your car??? Thanks so much - I appreciate your response!

The MSD opti is GARBAGE would be high on my list of suspects.
Before buying anything I would try swapping a functional stock one on. If the old one was replaced because of poor running as opposed to a optical pickup code put the MSD cap and rotor on the stock opti and you WILL be better off than you are with the fancy billet base.

Most of the guys who bought that thing have ended up switching back to stock.

I know that is not what you want to hear after spending $500 on it but if you start blindly replacing parts assuming it is good because it is "performance" and new you will spend a lot more.

Not every one of them has gone bad, but enough that it should be a strong suspect and should NOT be purchased.

I know people claim the stockers are bad but if they were one would not survive on my car, which happens to have a completely stock opti at the moment

My original Opti was toast - rust causing arcing, etc... I used a factory replacement distributor, only cap and rotor was MSD. Car ran perfect since until now... actually it still does run perfect - when its not stalling!

Does it idle low and then stall or just cut out???

I had an IAC die and it would idle real low sometimes and die.

There are other good ideas posted further up.

Quits at idle, under load, steady speed. You name it. Absolutely no rhyme or reason. Only common thread appears to be that it happens after reaching operating temp (car never overheats)

Guess I should have updated this thread.

My problem ended up being the Opti. Even though the previous owner had the Opti changed by his trusted mechanic who claimed to have used a GM unit (and charged accordingly). But when I removed the Opti it was a cheap knock off, and being in a bind at the time I also replaced it with another knock off Opti. But it failed with in a month. So after an expensive learning curve with Opti’s I concluded the best option is just to get a new GM AC Delco unit and be done with it. I found the best price at Summit.

Rats... I was hoping for a cheap and easy fix... The Opti I put in has less than 5K on it. Thanks for the update. I literally took the car to the Dealership this morning...