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post #1 of (permalink) Old 03-28-2018 Thread Starter
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Shaking when braking

I replaced my pads and rotors last year but my car has just start doing like a wobbling clunking sound when slowing down. I Kind of have to be at a certain speed or it doesn’t do it. there is a little play side to side on my front right but the tie rod looks and feels fine both sides no play up and down at all either side so don’t think wheel bearing. Everything else from what I see visually looks fine so I’m really confused as to what it is. I did buy cheap rotors online so idk maybe there warped again just wondering if anybody else has an idea
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 03-29-2018
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Cheap rotors sometimes do need machining. They have been known to vibrate and shake right out the box. If it was a wheel bearing you'd probably feel the shaking at all speeds.

The side to side play on your front right worries me, but I'd machine your rotors and go from there.

Hope this helps


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post #3 of (permalink) Old 03-29-2018
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Would be inclined to inspect the rotors if it were mine. Check for any play in the wheel bearings while having the car up.

My 6 year constantly asks why. What adults can learn from 5 and 6 year olds, to listen with your ears and mind open. Hard to learn when you don't listen ......
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 03-29-2018
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I'd also think back if you have ever had to 'slam' on your brakes. Cheaper rotors can warp when you do this. and screw them up. I always go for the higher end rotors for this reason, crossdrilled best for venting and keeping the brakes cool.

like anything, you get what you pay for even in brakes

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 03-29-2018
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Personally, I would not recommend drilled rotors (or even slotted rotors for that matter). I've actually read that cross-drilled rotors can actually run hotter than "regular" rotors due to the fact that there is less mass. Times have changed and the only reason that you'd need drilled rotors (especially for a regular "street" car) is for looks. Otherwise, you are better off with "regular" rotors (which are usually "vented"). Do some research on the subject and you'd be surprised.

For example (first link that came up for me):

http://automotivethinker.com/brakes-...d-and-warping/

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtrosky View Post
Personally, I would not recommend drilled rotors (or even slotted rotors for that matter). I've actually read that cross-drilled rotors can actually run hotter than "regular" rotors due to the fact that there is less mass. Times have changed and the only reason that you'd need drilled rotors (especially for a regular "street" car) is for looks. Otherwise, you are better off with "regular" rotors (which are usually "vented"). Do some research on the subject and you'd be surprised.

For example (first link that came up for me):

Rotors: Blank vs Cross Drilled vs Slotted and Warping | Automotive Thinker - Discussing the finer points of automobiles

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i had some cross drilled/slotted rotors on my impala (still on the rears actually) and found in heavy city driving they went about a year or so before warping (double what the cheap autozone rotors lasted on the previous change). 2.5 years after installing the slotted rotors i was changing out the fronts due to "warpage so bad it could have been an amusement ride." i will note i'm running ceramics which had they not been lifetime warranty i'd have gone back to semi-metallics. this time around on the fronts i bought some higher carbon content rotors to try and combat the warping so we'll see how long these ones last.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 03-29-2018
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I'm conflicted with the whole ceramic/semi-metallic thing... Ceramic are quiet and pretty much dust-free, but supposedly semi-metallic handles heat better (but create tons of brake dust). I've been running ceramic for years now - but if my police rotors end up warped withing a few years, I may try semi-metallic again next...

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"Buy cheap, gonna weep" True in brake rotors and life in general. BTW, I bought the less expensive at Autozone and will be getting the front ones resurfaced soon. That Fram oil filter commercial keeps playing in my mind too.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtrosky View Post
I'm conflicted with the whole ceramic/semi-metallic thing... Ceramic are quiet and pretty much dust-free, but supposedly semi-metallic handles heat better (but create tons of brake dust). I've been running ceramic for years now - but if my police rotors end up warped withing a few years, I may try semi-metallic again next...

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I donít care much for the loss in stopping power with ceramic either. Ill not install ceramic on a car that didnít come factory with them again...i feel i lost a lot of initial bite when applying the breaks. They stop fine, but people who drive my car donít like the way they feel.


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post #10 of (permalink) Old 03-29-2018
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Interesting - your Impala didn't come with ceramic pads from the factory? I know the 2012+ 8th gens do come with ceramic so I just assumed the earlier 8th gens came with ceramic pads from the factory as well.

I know that my 2012 stops *really* well with ceramic pads - but that may be because it was designed for ceramic pads, like you said.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtrosky View Post
Interesting - your Impala didn't come with ceramic pads from the factory? I know the 2012+ 8th gens do come with ceramic so I just assumed the earlier 8th gens came with ceramic pads from the factory as well.

I know that my 2012 stops *really* well with ceramic pads - but that may be because it was designed for ceramic pads, like you said.

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Im 98% certain they werenít stop on my 2010 LS.


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post #12 of (permalink) Old 03-29-2018
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Jared1991 check your tires. I had a set of tires with cracks in the sidewall, nothing scary but they were cracked. Car did the same thing and I thought it was a brake problem. I got new tires and no more shake when braking, I mean zero.

Last edited by Bill58; 03-29-2018 at 05:18 PM. Reason: misspelling
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post #13 of (permalink) Old 03-29-2018
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Sometimes a shimmy is cheap pads that leave deposits on the rotor, some garnet sandpaper is sharp but not hard enough to really remove iron can remove deposits.

Ceramics are amazing for brake dust reduction, wife's 2014 rims look great forever, I had a Chevy Sports Sedan and drove 1/2-2/3rds as much as here and rims looked like crap in a week.
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post #14 of (permalink) Old 03-29-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill58 View Post
Jared1991 check your tires. I had a set of tires with cracks in the side wall, nothing scary but they were cracked. Car did the same thing and I thought it was a brake problem. I got new tires and no more shake when braking, I mean zero.
Good point, have had tires that were out of balance do similar as well.

Put duralast gold cmax pads on the fronts on our 2012 back probably 55000 miles ago and cleaned up the original factory rotors. With well over 140000 miles on the car now, no complaints at all.

My 6 year constantly asks why. What adults can learn from 5 and 6 year olds, to listen with your ears and mind open. Hard to learn when you don't listen ......
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post #15 of (permalink) Old 05-20-2018
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I was about to order some new brakes/rotors for my 09 due to pulsing while braking, and strange ‘clunks’ while braking in reverse. Glad I came here first, was about to buy a cheap set of slotted drilled rotors online. Think I’ll spend a bit more to get something better.
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