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-   -   My maintainence RANT (https://www.impalaforums.com/autocare-and-maintenance/273646-my-maintainence-rant.html)

thacarter546 02-07-2011 02:28 PM

My maintainence RANT
 
Alright I have just recently been exposed to groups of people who dont choose their cars wisely. Here are a few good guidelines to making cars last and choosing wisely.

1. Choose a car based on its maintainence schedule. Some cars require special maintainence. Research this and make sure that this fits in with your budget, schedule and automotive skills.

2. Plan for the worse. Always have some money set aside for an unexpected repair or cost for your vehicle. If you dont fix the problem now most likely it is going to compound or cause other issues which will snowball into something you cant manage.

3. Follow proper service procedures. Fix the problem the right way not the easy way.

4. Dont ignore your auto tranny. This is one of the biggest misconceptions I hear. The thought is that servicing the tranny fluid can cause roque metal floating around in the tranny and decrease the life of the tranny. This is absolutely FALSE if you service it PROPERLY. If you arent comfortable doing this yourself make sure the shop you hire does it the right way. Most shops vacuum the fuild out through the dipstick and fill it up the same way. This is WRONG. The PROPER way involves dropping the pan, replacing the filter, cleaning the magnet in the pan, then properly torquing the pan back up with a NEW gasket then replacing the fluid.

5. Make sure the shop you use is honest and follows the proper procedures. I have alot of maintainence experience, but somethings are over my head.

6. Make sure you dont get double charged for labor. For instance if the engine has to be pulled for an oil pan gasket, Make sure you have them service everything at once. Its not a bad idea to replace motor mounts and have the entire bottom end resealed with good gaskets.

7. Dont cheap out on parts. ESPECIALLY if its something that is a pain in the ass to do. Of course that paper gasket is 99 cents, but if it takes 4 hours to replace, maybe its wort the extra 5-10 bucks for the higher quality seal.

8. If the repair is new to you, read read read. Sometimes one source isnt good enough. Make sure the source is viable. Sometimes youll get a bunch of hotshot mechanics not informed a bout your particular product chiming in. The best sources are based on a tear down of your PARTICULAR car. Haynes, Chiltons, Alldata, Mitchells, there are tons to choose from choose wisely.

A wonderful example of this is my Lincoln Continental 98 DOHC 4.6L. I unwittingly bought a Chiltons that SUPOSEDLY covers this car, but when I got it home and opened it. There is NOT one proper procedure for the 98 with the DOHC 4.6. It covers the 2 and 3 valve 4.6 modular v8s quite well, but those werent even offered in my body style.

9. Dont cheap out on fluids. and again research. This doesnt mean you need Royal Purple everything in a car. Moreso some fluids are indeed better than others, although a better fluid, filter or seal does NOT mean you should neglect service intervals.

10. Follow the MANAFACTURERS service intervals. Of course your MOBIL1 bottle says the oil is good for 7500 miles, and it PROBABLY IS, However, that doesnt mean the filter is rated for that extended service interval. Your factory oil filter is probably loaded to the brim with contaminants at 3-5k miles.

11. When in doubt use FACTORY REPLACEMENT PARTS. They arent necessarily the end all BEST replacements, but alot of chinese knockoff parts are made quite inferior to a good factory replacement.

12. Check everything regularly. How are you gonna know about an oil leak if you have no idea how much is in your car at a given time.

13. Cleanliness is next to godliness. Do YOU know if that brown patch on the engine is dirt or a fluid leak?

14. ALWAYS get a second opinion. I know alot of "honest" shops that will exaggerate problems to make a buck. You dont need to replace a serpentine belt everytime you get your oil change. Nor do CV shafts go out every month.

15. Dont forget about the suspension and steering. Some cars have sealed joints and bearing hubs now, but if YOU DONT and oil change is the perfect opportunity to repack your bearings and inspect for wear. and pack all greasable joints with some high quality grease.

16. Work smarter not harder. If you have the tires off inspect the brakes. Grease everything. Rotate the tires. Save yourself some headaches don the road by going that extra mile for your baby.

Enjoy your ride. She may not be perfect, but if you maintain a mutual respect shell get you down the road for many years to come.

thacarter546 02-07-2011 02:32 PM

Oh and flush that DEXCOOL the WEEK you get your new GM home. Itll save you alot of headaches down the road to switch to green.

This topic is debateable, but on all of the GMs Ive owned to this day the DEX has caused me massive headaches that green doesnt. Supposedly thats fixed, but your seals will thank you for it.

TSS 02-08-2011 07:02 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Nice write up.

BBSmoov 02-08-2011 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thacarter546 (Post 343359)
Oh and flush that DEXCOOL the WEEK you get your new GM home. Itll save you alot of headaches down the road to switch to green.

This topic is debateable, but on all of the GMs Ive owned to this day the DEX has caused me massive headaches that green doesnt. Supposedly thats fixed, but your seals will thank you for it.

I think the problem is with the clay tablets eating the seals, not DEXCOOL itself.

donmateo 02-08-2011 05:14 PM

Nice write up.

77Impala 02-08-2011 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BBSmoov (Post 343633)
I think the problem is with the clay tablets eating the seals, not DEXCOOL itself.

:dunno:Never thought of that but it makes sense for the clay would act like an abrasive as it moves through out the cooling system.

I have never understood why they put the clay tablets in there in the first place. If they truly had problems with new engines leaking then why not find and cure the problem instead of putting in stop leak before the car leaves the factory?

BBSmoov 02-08-2011 07:11 PM

treating the symptom and not the root cause.

thacarter546 02-08-2011 08:49 PM

Never even knew about the clay tablet, but I do know whenever I buy a GM car it gets a coolant flush THAT WEEK and filled with green.

As for the Dex cool it does react with the rubber GM uses in the intake manifold. There is/was a class action lawsuit about it. GM was required to add an OATS additive to all new Dex Cool. That stuff is nasty.

Also its just a preventative measure. Not all places carry Dex and if you mix Dex with yellow or green you get mud. Ive had this happen in my younger years and that slude is a horror to clean out.

trainedsnypa 02-02-2012 07:32 PM

great knowledge you posted here.

waynes91 02-02-2012 07:46 PM

being a counter person you'd be surprised how may people try to by dexcool for other type vehicles, and then to most are clueless,buying used cars is a crap shoot who knows what the previous idiot owner has done in the pass,now to they have so many u can only get at the dealer stuff, a little weary about that u can mix with any color antifreeze i guess it works

77Impala 02-02-2012 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waynes91 (Post 440340)
a little weary about that u can mix with any color antifreeze i guess it works

I like it, I keep it in my van when I am servicing vehicles. That way I just don't have to worry about what the vehicle already has.

I have used it for over 4 years with no issues what so ever.

Lucky1 01-04-2013 02:21 PM

Nice write-up and great words to live by. And yes a clean car is a happy car.

g25racer 01-06-2013 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thacarter546 (Post 343359)
Oh and flush that DEXCOOL the WEEK you get your new GM home. Itll save you alot of headaches down the road to switch to green.

This topic is debateable, but on all of the GMs Ive owned to this day the DEX has caused me massive headaches that green doesnt. Supposedly thats fixed, but your seals will thank you for it.

2nd that! Dex-cool is a nitemare! First thing I did was get the system flushed not a drain and fill then, replace thermostat, gasket, and coolant temp sensor. If you dont do this, eventually you will get a white film in your cooling system and it will cause your coolant temp sensor to stop working which means, rad fans running full blast and your pcm not knowing your engine is up to temp. If you dont know whats going on it will create a big headache for you.




jayman 02-10-2013 09:03 PM

Frequent oil and filter changes should be a no-brainer. I run synthetic but due to my harsh climate, I still change the oil and filter every 3 months or 5,000 miles MAX. Oil is dirt cheap compared to a new motor.

Tranny service with one added note: an early initial service pays off, gets the break-in and assembly trash out of there. I have always done the first transmission service at 12 months or 10,000 initial miles.

Have not had any issues with Dexcool. Very important to keep fluid levels up.

volume 02-10-2013 09:19 PM

the 2012 impala does not have trans filter. only got a drain plug am planning to do a drain and fill at 30.000 miles (no flush) what you all think?

g25racer 02-10-2013 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by volume (Post 547512)
the 2012 impala does not have trans filter. only got a drain plug am planning to do a drain and fill at 30.000 miles (no flush) what you all think?

What? Yes they do. What trim package do you have? The filters are external to my knowledge.




jayman 02-10-2013 10:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by volume (Post 547512)
the 2012 impala does not have trans filter. only got a drain plug am planning to do a drain and fill at 30.000 miles (no flush) what you all think?

There is a filter, but you have to tear apart the transaxle to get to it. Hence my very early initial service. I can't even imagine what it would cost to fix that 6 speed auto out of warranty.

The 6T70 filter is internal and not easily serviced

https://www.automaticchoice.com/Catalogue/6t70.pdf

AutoTransTech: 6T70/6T75: The Future is Now, Part 1 (Steve Garret, Gears Magazine)

Quote:

Originally Posted by g25racer (Post 547522)
What? Yes they do. What trim package do you have? The filters are external to my knowledge.

They have an internal filter that requires disassembly of the transaxle case to access. Please see above

g25racer 02-10-2013 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jayman (Post 547525)
They have an internal filter that requires disassembly of the transaxle case to access. Please see above

Woops my mistake. But from the pics on autpartwarehouse it looks like they messed up. This one clearly looks like an oil filter. WTF

B&M 10288 Automatic Transmission Filter | Auto Parts Warehouse

Either way this job sounds like PITA! Good ole' GM still screwing up. Is gm trying to go back to the "lifetime transmission"? Yes GM tried this before and miserably failed




jayman 02-10-2013 10:53 PM

Toyota claims the same "lifetime" fluid crap with their WS fluid in my '07 FJ

Yeah

Right

volume 02-11-2013 05:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jayman (Post 547525)
There is a filter, but you have to tear apart the transaxle to get to it. Hence my very early initial service. I can't even imagine what it would cost to fix that 6 speed auto out of warranty.

The 6T70 filter is internal and not easily serviced

https://www.automaticchoice.com/Catalogue/6t70.pdf

AutoTransTech: 6T70/6T75: The Future is Now, Part 1 (Steve Garret, Gears Magazine)



They have an internal filter that requires disassembly of the transaxle case to access. Please see above

The filter isnít designed to be serviced and the cost to remove and reinstall is not going to happen. at what miles is good to change the fluid?

Gregg-O 02-11-2013 02:41 PM

What's recommended from GM?

volume 02-11-2013 04:21 PM

100.000 miles and severe driving at 50.000 miles

jayman 02-11-2013 10:17 PM

Yeah I'm gonna do the first service sometime this summer at before 10,000 miles

This car has to last me a long time

SCOTTYINWV 02-11-2013 10:38 PM

I'm at 121xxx I need to service my trans, money has been tight until I got my taxes




g25racer 02-11-2013 10:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTTYINWV (Post 548150)
I'm at 121xxx I need to service my trans, money has been tight until I got my taxes

2nd that. Waiting on taxes to see how much $$ is left over after my top end, etc




SCOTTYINWV 02-11-2013 10:57 PM

I'm figuring I'll have it done when I get the allignment after I put my kybs on




g25racer 02-11-2013 11:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTTYINWV (Post 548181)
I'm figuring I'll have it done when I get the allignment after I put my kybs on

Not going with the quick struts anymore?




SCOTTYINWV 02-11-2013 11:33 PM

went with strut plus




g25racer 02-11-2013 11:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTTYINWV (Post 548246)
went with strut plus

Front and rear's? I would replace the top mounts/bearings also esp the fronts as they tend to rust out and see more wear (more wight in frt obv).

I wish I would have replaced the top mounts when doing mine as they are now making a clicking noise from the slop/play. Just another thing to add to the gigantic list I have.




SCOTTYINWV 02-11-2013 11:41 PM

I thought the strut plus came with top mounts too




g25racer 02-11-2013 11:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTTYINWV (Post 548261)
I thought the strut plus came with top mounts too

Does it show them in the picture or description? If not then, no. Most struts do NOT come with top mounts and they are quite expensive for what they are. They run about $20-30 a piece on rockauto.




volume 02-12-2013 04:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jayman (Post 548127)
Yeah I'm gonna do the first service sometime this summer at before 10,000 miles

This car has to last me a long time

for the drain and fill how many quart does it take?

g25racer 02-12-2013 04:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by volume (Post 548337)
for the drain and fill how many quart does it take?

Taken straight from the second link:

Fluid capacity; fluid change: 4.2-6.3 qts (4-6 liters)

I would poor in 5qrts and let sit for 10min to allow fluid to transfer to the pan then, check again. Fill as necessary, wait again then, check again. It all depends on how much was drained. Their is no exact amount of fluid to be replaced.




jayman 02-12-2013 03:01 PM

A warning from the one link I provided is that the fluid temp has to be correct to get the proper level. Much like the auto trans in my FJ, a solid page of warnings in the shop manual that if the fluid level isn't within 20 degrees of the specified temp, the level won't be correct.

My 2012 owner manual claims 5 litres or 5.3 US quarts

gabriel9766 02-17-2014 12:13 AM

I just bought a 2010 impala with 63k on it, the tranny fluid is a lil brown and im coming from a ford taurus with pan drops every 30k. Whats gm's msi on tranny pan/ service?

g25racer 02-17-2014 01:32 AM

I'd suggest every 30-40k miles. Replace fluid and filter. I do not suggest a fluid flush




gabriel9766 02-17-2014 10:32 AM

oh yea never, on all our cars i do pan drops and filter changes. at work tho we do flushes only up to 100k or if its been serviced before we do it. we do pan drops if the coustemer wants it but our transmission service is a flush.

F16vipers 10-02-2014 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by volume (Post 547512)
the 2012 impala does not have trans filter. only got a drain plug am planning to do a drain and fill at 30.000 miles (no flush) what you all think?

Changing the fluid at 30K won't hurt anything. The 2012s do have a filter...but it's wedged in between the two halves of the transmission so changing it requires a near complete dis-assembly of the transmission. Good for you for not buying into the GM lifetime Dexron VI baloney!

I agree with everything the OP said. If you take care of your vehicle it will last a long time. I have a 94 Jeep Cherokee with 240K and it still runs as good as ever. Preventative maintenance is a lot cheaper than fix it when its good and broke maintenance!

fatrabbit 10-02-2014 10:53 AM

4 Attachment(s)
GM says you should do a transmission fluid change every 100,000 miles, if you use your car for delivery/taxi/police/towing they say to change around the transmission fluid every 50,000 miles.

30,000 miles is a lot of money to waste away, with dexron 6 being at around $8 a quart it cost around $100 to change around the fluid. You'd have spent $300 hitting 100,000 when you only needed to spend $100, when ever you have your oil change all you have to do is pull the transmission dip stick to check.

It's like everyone thinks they drive a Honda lol

jtrosky 10-02-2014 11:11 AM

First, you can find Dexron VI fluid for as little as $5 a quart (Walmart sells it for $4.27 - can probably even get it for less on sale), but even at $8 a quart, it would still only cost $48 for the fluid (transmission fluid capacity in the 2012 6-speed transmission is 5.3 quarts). Not sure how you came up with $100 per change for the fluid! :-)

Second, just because GM "recommends" 100k mile change intervals, doesn't mean that is whats best for your car! Do you *really* think that 100k mile recommendation is some kind of scientific number? In my experience, manufactures tend to give the best-case scenario in their "recommendation" numbers - not really "real-world" numbers.

Third, I'd MUCH rather spend $150 to change the fluid 3 times by 100k miles than spend $2500 on an transmission rebuild! Again, it's called preventive maintenance. $150 per 100k miles is absolutely nothing in the scheme of things.

Based on the fact that the previous transmission in the Impalas was known to fail before 100k miles (sometimes more than once!), I don't think $150 is that big of a deal in order to help prevent such early failures. Maybe it will help, maybe it won't - but for $150, I'd rather be safe than sorry! :-)

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