As far as I can tell, that is correct. The red/purple and black wire are spots 4 and 8 on the eight-pin connector, same one as the front door speakers. That said, I would definitely run separate power straight to the battery under the hood on an additional amp.

radioactive77- The noise cancellation shouldn't have any effect on music. The way it works is like an audio filter. It looks for very specific bands of consistent (not rhythmic) sound frequencies associated with road noise (tire hum/buzz, wind, panel vibration) and plays them back through the speakers 180 out of phase from the mics, lessening their audible impact. The Bose noise cancellation headphones work much the same way, but have an easier time, since they don't need to distinguish "inside noise" from "outside noise"... Either way, the NC couldn't cancel out your subs entirely.

Assuming you have your gain and crossover set even close, it almost sounds like either you have your "fade" control way back, or your subs are out of phase with the rest of your speakers. In a sealed sub enclosure, out of phase subs will still move like the are "pumping", but they are really "pulling", and the air moving is just moving inside the box. If you know your positives and negatives are good from the factory amp to the sub inputs, the subs may be wired 180 from the rest. Try switching the pos and neg input wires into the sub enclosure and see if that helps.

BTW, for anyone wondering, the noise cancellation is an entirely separate animal from "speed sensitive volume", which basically just increases the output volume of your head unit as the car goes faster. It seems that the increase happens centered on, but not exactly at, the 10 incriments on the speedometer- 10, 20, 30, etc... Mine doesn't really become noticeable until about 30mph and up.

i already verified phase. I checked and re-checked that when this first happened. Checked inside the box and also verfied each coil (running Dual coil subs) Also switched the wires at the amp to reverse phase with the car and still sounded the same but got worst when it was truly reversed phase.

I will have to re-verify everything although i have done it already, If you claim the noise cancellation wont affect it then im not sure what the issue is , maybe a bad Audio control unit although when i installed the lc2i it did improve over a standard LOC.

Its crazy also because if you sit in the cabin with the trunk open it dont sound to bad but as soon as you close the trunk the sound seems to disappear

Weird. Pretty much out of ideas, except what direction the cones are pointing. I would think that closing the trunk would help.

On mine, even 100 watts into a single 10, aiming from left fender towards right, can wiggle the mirrors at well less than half volume coming from the head unit.

My EQ is set treb+3, mid+4/5, bass+2/3. Still need to dial it in a bit to get more mid bass from the front woofers, but it definitely has noticeable presence.

Well here's an update on the Sub-woofers performance in my car. Its great the only problem is that if I push the system the rear deck and truck have alot of rattle now I guess its time to looking into sound proofing the truck space to get rid of some of the rattle. So the mics don't effect the sound system allows the bass to my subs I couldn't be happier

Hello, I was wondering if the rear deck has holes for 6x9 speakers standard on each vehicle. I know the Bose system has the 6x9's in the rear deck. I was thinking maybe I could add some, if there were already holes for them in the rear deck. And also , is there a remote wire connected to the factory amp and could I splice that wire to run to an amp for a couple of ten inch subs. Thanks to anyone who could help.

I'm also having this almost no sound out of sub experience. Sub is installin a 2015 impala with the standard 6 speaker set up. I first wired my amps high level input directly to the rear door speaker wires to the factory amp green connector pins 15/7 LR and 14/6 RR. Only get sound out the sub with gains way up and volume set high. Now i have wired in a LOC to factory amp 8pin grey connector pins 7/3 LF and 6/2 RF to pick up the front door speaker signals. Then from the LOC out to sub amp RCA input. Still only get sound out the sub if gains set high and volume cranked up. Have not hooked the front door speaker wires (minus the LOC) to the high level input on the amp. I'll try that when i get a minute.

Does the LOC have a volume control on it? When I first installed mine, it was really quite, looking at the back there was two adjusters "hidden" and we're all the way down. Turning them up fixed it. What is the exact LOC your using?


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Using one of those Walmart Scosche LOC's. I have adjusted the L and R gains on it. Sound does increase as the gains turn up but not much.

Gonna do a little testing tonight. To see if my amp, sub, or signal to the amp.

Found a loose ground at the amp. Played with the amp gains with a good bass song and she came to life. Bumpin now. LOC is connected to the front door speaker wires at the amp in the trunk (6 speaker car). I wish I had a great fix for ya'll but we basically snugged up the AMP ground, took amp to speaker wiring apart and put back to gether. Sundown 12" SA powered by Sundown SAE-600D amp in home built 2 cubic foot box tuned at 35hz works well.

Hey guys/gals, well after having the system installed i have started to notice a delay on the bass line response, pretty much what i'm talking about is that as soon as the beat hits it takes to the next beat for it to kick in. Now I did not cut the mics out of the system because when the bass is going it stays for the entire song. well at least with most songs. I'm just wondering from the ppl that have cut there mic wires if they have noticed a lag response on the bass side of the song,

i have 2 12" kenwoods in 2 ported boxes at 1.6 cuft for the spec of the subs
hifonics brx2000.10
AudioControl LC2I 2-Channel Line Out Converter and Subwoofer Control

Hopefully someone that has cut the wires can tell me if they're system...

wize

Does anyone have a video or pictures of the correct wires to tap in at the Bose factory amp?

Hey I will take some tmw since I'm going to looking into my lag issue

I just bought a brand new 2015 Impala LTZ a couple weeks ago and I am considering putting a sub or two in it. I have the 11 speaker Bose centerpoint system, but I'm wanting a little bit more.

I used to be big into car audio up until about 10 years ago, but always changed out head units and never messed with any line out converters. I've done everything else though like omponent speakers, crossovers, all new wires, subs, sub amps, component amps, extra batteries, relays, capacitors, and all that.

Wizetek - It would be great if you could still post pictures and such to help me and others like myself. Also, did you ever figure out your "lag" issue?

By the way, I've always been a big JL Audio fan, so I'm looking at 8" or 10" W7's and their HD amps. Probably two 8's, or one 10, as I listen to mostly heavy metal like Pantera, Slipknot, Devildriver, Slayer, Lamb of God, etc.

where the video

For those that have successfully installed their setup, where did you route your power wire to the front battery? Im having trouble finding a spot to run the wire.