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post #16 of (permalink) Old 07-17-2015 Thread Starter
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Ok you are looking at the wrong part I think because all the wires going to the bose amp have everything to do with the audio I have the wiring information direct from the wiring techs at the gm tech center so all the wires I hooked to work.
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post #17 of (permalink) Old 07-20-2015
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Recently purchased a Impala 2LT V6 with the Premium Audio, Convenience, Navigation, and Safety packages. Have my old subwoofer and Amp. I don't know where to start to try to install them.
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post #18 of (permalink) Old 07-20-2015 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by steweezy View Post
Recently purchased a Impala 2LT V6 with the Premium Audio, Convenience, Navigation, and Safety packages. Have my old subwoofer and Amp. I don't know where to start to try to install them.
Congratz on the purchase!!!!

Well the best place to start is to get that converter that i posted earlier, and I currently don't have any of the pictures with me on vacation to help you out, but if you have some knowledge on how to take ur trunk interior out so you can see the Bose amp on the passenger side of the trunk all of the audio wires start from the trunk at the bose amp, and since i don't have the wiring info with me my suggestion to you would be look at the speakers on the rear deck and check the wire colors that go to the woofer part of the speakers and find those colors on the wiring harness that goes to the bose amp they should be the big green plug and big black plug right next to it. there you can slice in the new wires to go to that converter. Now a couple of words on that converter if you choose to go with a cheap on that doesn't supply 12v dc to the signal. you will be stuck with a 6vdc audio signal that won't amplify correctly and you will not get the most potential out of ur amp and subwoofers.

Let me know if you need some more info, I will try my best to get back to you..
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post #19 of (permalink) Old 07-21-2015
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Wizetek- Thanks for the response, both here and the PM!

The 20-pin connector I was referring to was from Utah LTZ's post. It's the little box mounted on the front side of the amp bracket with the big gray 90 degree plug in it, and is the only 20-pin connector there. Either way, while it is mounted to the black plastic bracket that holds the amp, it has nothing to do with audio, and should be left alone.

Now, I personally don't have the 11-speaker centerpoint system, just the upgraded 6-speaker MyLink system, but my factory amp is indeed labeled "Bose". I have 2 dash tweeters, 2 front door 6x9in. woofers, and 2 5&1/4in. 'wide range' coaxials in the rear doors.

So far, I'm only adding a Kicker self-powered sub, but have been doing a lot of homework on this. Info for the 10-gens is pretty scarce so far, so this thread has been great!

One odd thing I've found (besides having a Bose amp) is that on the black 8-pin connector, spots 4 and 8 are putting out battery voltage even when the car and accessories are off. I haven't seen any reference to those 2 wires anywhere...
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post #20 of (permalink) Old 07-21-2015
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Sorry for the double post, but the last line should read:
(I couldn't find the edit feature... )

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimp-ala View Post
One odd thing I've found (besides having a Bose amp) is that on the GRAY (not "black") 8-pin connector, spots 4 and 8 are putting out battery voltage even when the car and accessories are off. I haven't seen any reference to those 2 wires anywhere...
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post #21 of (permalink) Old 07-27-2015
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so i got an issue maybe someone here can help, i have a 2015 impala and myself used to install car stereos for a living for 10+ years.

So here is the scenario. added a custom 2 10" subwoofer box sealed, with a 800RMS amp and am using an Audio Control Lc2i line out converter.

Ive taped into both the front mids and I've also tried the rear speakers for signal to the Lc2i.

My issue is no matter what i do it basically sounds like the sub's are not even on , sounds more than like a decent pair of factory 6x9's. When the trunk is open and I'm listening standing behind the car the subs sound like they will sound awesome when i get in the car , but they don't. I did cut all the mic input wires on the factory amp and its didn't seem to help.

It almost sounds as if the sound cancellation is still active or it sounds like when a speaker is out of phase (subs moving a lot but not much sound)

Like I've said I've done this for years and have dealt with older Chevy models with Bass roll off and its has NEVER sounded this bad.

Anyone have any other ideas on what it could be?
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post #22 of (permalink) Old 07-28-2015
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When installing a new amp, did you guys use the battery located in the truck or did you run your power wire to the front battery?
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post #23 of (permalink) Old 07-28-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radioactive77 View Post
so i got an issue maybe someone here can help, i have a 2015 impala and myself used to install car stereos for a living for 10+ years.

So here is the scenario. added a custom 2 10" subwoofer box sealed, with a 800RMS amp and am using an Audio Control Lc2i line out converter.

Ive taped into both the front mids and I've also tried the rear speakers for signal to the Lc2i.

My issue is no matter what i do it basically sounds like the sub's are not even on , sounds more than like a decent pair of factory 6x9's. When the trunk is open and I'm listening standing behind the car the subs sound like they will sound awesome when i get in the car , but they don't. I did cut all the mic input wires on the factory amp and its didn't seem to help.

It almost sounds as if the sound cancellation is still active or it sounds like when a speaker is out of phase (subs moving a lot but not much sound)

Like I've said I've done this for years and have dealt with older Chevy models with Bass roll off and its has NEVER sounded this bad.

Anyone have any other ideas on what it could be?
For starters, the only speakers providing bass in these cars are the front door 6x9s, and the rear deck 6x9s (on Centerpoint models), so the wiring for those would be your jump-off point. All the other speakers are tweeters or coaxials...

For mine (only the 6 speaker), installing a Kicker PT250 self-powered sub, I tapped directly into the output wires for the front door speakers for my sub input- no line out converters, etc. I ran power from the battery, and remote power from the rear seat 12v outlet. It all works just fine. It's amazing what a difference it made in the stock sound...

I used the "high power" input selection on my sub/amp, as opposed to either bypassing the factory amp entirely, or using an LOC to drop the amped signal back down to RCA levels. I know purists love signal direct from whatever head unit they are using, but in my case, it seemed silly to "un-amplify" the signal just to re-amp it.

I would suggest trying going direct into the amp by tapping the front door speakers if your amp has the capability to take high level inputs and see what happens.

To Dominguez805- I believe only certain factory ordered models like police/civil service packages have batteries in the trunk. Mine's a 15 LTZ, and the only batteries in my trunk are in my flashlight...
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post #24 of (permalink) Old 07-28-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimp-ala View Post
...but in my case, it seemed silly to "un-amplify" the signal just to re-amp it.
A-MEN!


Quote:
and the only batteries in my trunk are in my flashlight...


Doug

.
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post #25 of (permalink) Old 07-28-2015
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i tried using the direct no LOC connection, however on this amp it is simply a RCA connector on one end and the other is simply wires you connect to the factory speaker for signal, this did not work out well either.

I also have the standard 6 speaker system. I will try and verify which speakers i am currently tapped into but I'm pretty sure its the fronts.

Also just for more information my impala also has a battery in the trunk, behind small panel on drives side trunk, however this is only to ru the basic systems while the car "shuts off" during idling. i wouldn't connect it to an amp as you always risk the amp potentially draining that small battery during idle which in turn could one day ruin it for good.

Mine is ran directly to the battery.
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post #26 of (permalink) Old 07-28-2015 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radioactive77 View Post
i tried using the direct no LOC connection, however on this amp it is simply a RCA connector on one end and the other is simply wires you connect to the factory speaker for signal, this did not work out well either.

I also have the standard 6 speaker system. I will try and verify which speakers i am currently tapped into but I'm pretty sure its the fronts.

Also just for more information my impala also has a battery in the trunk, behind small panel on drives side trunk, however this is only to ru the basic systems while the car "shuts off" during idling. i wouldn't connect it to an amp as you always risk the amp potentially draining that small battery during idle which in turn could one day ruin it for good.

Mine is ran directly to the battery.
Ok this is what i noticed after installing the LOC converter it will stay on for about 3 min after the car is off and the radio is off kind of wierd can't figure that out because i have the remote wire coming from the cig lighter below the radio but the amp and converter shuts off so im happy , the other thing is with the LOC converter you have to have a 12vcd goin to it directly ie the cig lighter outlet then run a remote wire to the amp that is the only way the LOC converter will work. i have mine installed and it works great and i didn't cut the mics that r in the car because i didn't notice any difference in the sound the mics r mainly there for the auto volume for when you accelerate on the high way to drown out the road noise, and if you have that small battery in the trunk mainly on the 2.5L engine that is for the electronics ie ur 120 vac outlet in the back if you have it. For the V6 we don't have that small battery.
I hooked into the rear deck speakers for the audio signal. I would show you the pictures that i have but im on vacation and the pics r at the house and after i get back from vacation ill make a video showing where i tapped into the wires at the factory bose amp..... and i have the wiring info for the 11 speaker bose only, sorry to those with the 6 speaker system....

If you have any questions or are having issues with the audio hookup PM with ur issues and show me ur pics with ur setup alot easier to trouble shoot with pictures.


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post #27 of (permalink) Old 07-28-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radioactive77 View Post
i tried using the direct no LOC connection, however on this amp it is simply a RCA connector on one end and the other is simply wires you connect to the factory speaker for signal, this did not work out well either.

I also have the standard 6 speaker system. I will try and verify which speakers i am currently tapped into but I'm pretty sure its the fronts.

Also just for more information my impala also has a battery in the trunk, behind small panel on drives side trunk, however this is only to ru the basic systems while the car "shuts off" during idling. i wouldn't connect it to an amp as you always risk the amp potentially draining that small battery during idle which in turn could one day ruin it for good.

Mine is ran directly to the battery.
You must have the 4 cylinder. Mine's a 6. No battery in the trunk, just the factory (although labeled Bose) amp, behind the trunk liner on the passenger side. Sorry about that...

Either way, good plan not using your trunk battery on that one.

The wires I tapped into were in the "bottom" 8-pin connector on the amp- right front: yellow=positive, yellow/black=negative
left front: blue=positive, brown/blue=negative

IF those wires don't correspond, the easiest way to find out would be by looking in the rubber "boot" that runs from the front door pillar into the front door. On the door side should be smallish (smaller than the body side) rectangular piece. If you gently push that into the door, the groove that holds the piece will come loose. You can then kinda fold or squish it to pull it out of the door. Once you do, you should be able to see the wires that the boot is protecting. That's how I confirmed which wires went where on mine. The speaker wires should be easy to recognize, since they are a heavier gauge wire, and are twisted together.

To put the boot back, just push the "inside lip" back into the door. Might take a bit of wiggling, but it will go. Just give the boot a pull to see if it is seated all the way...

As for why you aren't getting any signal to your subs, I hate to ask a stupid question, but do you have your LOC hooked up to the battery with a 1amp fuse as well, and properly grounded? (there are very handy grounding points on the inside of each fender) You shouldn't need the "main" output nor control settings, so I'd leave them alone. Is the fuse on the amp or by the positive battery connection still good?

Not sure what else to say without knowing the exact amp and sub set-up you are using.

(Wizetek posted at the same time. Good info there too!)
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post #28 of (permalink) Old 07-28-2015
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i am hooked up to the those speaker wires you mentioned. Also i am getting signal to the LOC and i get sound out of the sub but when i am sitting in the car with everything closed you can barely even tell that the subs are playing. but they are on, as you can fold the seat down and see them moving a lot!

the mics can make a difference in the car. the car listens to itself and recreates a reversed frequency of any extra noise it hears to cancel out those wavelength frequencies to quiet down the cabin.
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post #29 of (permalink) Old 07-28-2015
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Could someone confirm this diagram?
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post #30 of (permalink) Old 07-28-2015 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Dominguez805 View Post
Could someone confirm this diagram?

sry i don't have the wiring schematics with me there at the house on my desk and i won't be home for a couple of weeks
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