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post #16 of (permalink) Old 05-12-2018
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Originally Posted by Carbide View Post
Yes.

I'm going to see if I can get some in sizes to fit my '99 Silverado.
Pioneer D series is dead, but I found a pair of 6.5" D series closeouts, still $88 that will fit the front doors.

I think they were too quality for the coax market segment, where 39 and 49 dollar speakers prevail, like the only Pioneer 4x6 rear choice.
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post #17 of (permalink) Old 05-12-2018 Thread Starter
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The D series isn't really dead - they just released new models in the D-Series... However, you can still find a lot of TS-D1702R sets brand new everywhere - and pretty cheap. One of the reason that I liked the TS-D1702R was because they were 6.75" - and it seems that that extra .25 inch lets the speaker have so much more cone area compared the 6.5" speakers. All of the new D-Series models are 6.5" - no more 6.75" D-series, which sucks... But like I said, there are still plenty of TS-D1702R and TS-D6902R (6x9) for sale - and you can still find the TS-D1730C everywhere too, but they are component.

It's a shame - I don't think you'll find another set of 6.75" speakers of such high quality anywhere near the price you paid for the TS-D1720C/TS-D1730C - they are amazing speakers for the price. It'll be interesting to see how the new D-series models pan out - who knows, they may be even better... They also have a Z series now (step above the D-series). But again, no 6.75"..
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post #18 of (permalink) Old 05-12-2018
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I got the T-D1602R at 6.5" for the front doors, the stock speakers are 6.5" and I didn't want to have to drill new holes for 6.75".

But the rear pillar speakers are 4x6, and there isn't much without spending big for that size, so I capitulated to the Pioneer TS-G4645R.

It will be fine; what I had put in 10 years ago had gotten pretty bad, at least the 4x6's were.

About $120 Amazon, but not Amazon.

4 dollars cost to me, I took all the change I had to Coin Star finally, it was getting awkward trying to store it any longer; when you get the credit in Gift Cards, they don't charge you anything for taking the coins, otherwise it's like 11.5%. I took in about $300 worth of coins, mostly pennies. Its sounds like a lot of work, but the real work was sorting out all the old stuff and the still mostly copper pre-'82 pennies.
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post #19 of (permalink) Old 05-20-2018 Thread Starter
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So I finally got back to looking into this today... I think that part of the problem is that I changed too much all at once. I basically changed by head-unit, my front speakers, removed my amp and added an under-the-seat sub all at the about same time - so I've changed a LOT at once. :-)

I put my stock tweeters back in today and it does seem better, but since my current head-unit (the Dynavin N7) has a 9-band EQ, I have to get the EQ dialed in to my liking and spend some time listening to it (whereas originally, I had a Rosen GM1010, which just has bass, mid, treble and BBE - as well as the Alpine 45Wx4 amp). I have a feeling that I'm just not going to be happy with the current component setup.

As I was looking around online, I came across this JL Audio "tip":

https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us...aging-Tweeters

Basically, it recommends that you either use a component set with the woofer and tweeter right next to each other or a high-quality coaxial speaker in the door and then use an "imaging" tweeter - this way the woofer/tweeter sound isn't so "separate", but you still have the benefits of a tweeter in the a-pillar for "imaging". Which is basically what I started with. :-)

I think that I just don't like the sound from the door woofer and the a-pillar tweeter being so far apart from each other - it just doesn't seem to "blend" well. Maybe they're just too far apart in the 8th gen Impala for components to be beneficial with the stock mounting locations. Honestly, if you're going to keep the woofer and tweeter right next to each other anyway, I'm not so sure why components are supposed to be "better" than *good* coaxials - the Pioneer D-Series coaxials (TS-D1702R) that I have basically have the same crossover as the TS-D1730C components - it's just that they are mounted directly on the speaker instead of being in a separate box...

If you think about it, the stock speaker setup was a "full range" speaker in the door and a tweeter in the a-pillar. The stock door speaker is sent the full frequency range, which helps it blend with the tweeter better. Or maybe I can just get rid of the crossover and feed the Pioneer woofer the full frequency range - maybe that will allow it to "blend" with the tweeter better?

Or maybe I'll just go back to where I started - the Pioneer coaxials and the stock tweeters. :-) Combined with the 9-band EQ in the Dynavin N7 and the under-the-seat subwoofer, I think I can probably get a better sounding system than I can with the Pioneer components.

I'll probably eventually swap out my Alpine 45Wx4 amp with that new Kicker amp soon - that Kicker amp just sounds so awesome...

Last edited by jtrosky; 05-20-2018 at 11:29 AM.
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post #20 of (permalink) Old 05-20-2018
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Component speakers are often used with active (electronic) crossovers in a bi-amp configuration where the woofers and the tweeters have their own amplifiers. A passive crossover may be supplied with the component set by the manufacturer but this would go unused in an electronic crossover, two amp (bi-amp) configuration. Component speakers are not necessarily better, but offer different configuration options. In a bi-amp system head unit preamp outputs feed into the electronic crossover, and the preamp outputs from the electronic crossover feed into separate amps. Then the crossover points are selected and levels adjusted.

If jtrosky adds an electronic crossover and uses his four channel amp, he could configure his system so that two channels of the amp power the tweeters, and two channels of the amp power the woofers. Then use the head unit for rear fill. That's as long as the amp allows separate level controls. He already has an under the seat subwoofer so the rear channels don't have to produce strong bass.

Would this yield more pleasing sound? Hard to say, but it does offer finer control.

Last edited by Lettermark; 05-20-2018 at 11:30 AM.
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post #21 of (permalink) Old 05-20-2018 Thread Starter
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I don't want to get too complex here. I think I'm just going to reinstall the coaxials and try using the aftermarket tweeters with a few different crossover frequencies (via simple bass-blocker capacitors) - I'm going to try some 4.7uF (same as stock tweeters, about 8400hz), 4.0uF (about 9900hz) as well as some 3.3uF (about 12000hz) capacitors - Hopefully, one of those will do the trick. Or I'll just go back to the stock tweeters, but I'm a little worried about how much power they can handle - not sure if they can handle 45W RMS...

I've previously tried aftermarket tweeters with 5.6uF capacitors (about 7000hz) and I didn't like the sound - basically, I just want the tweeters to play some of the higher frequencies for imaging purposes - that's it.

Also, just FYI - the reason that I'm not using my amp right now is because I'm testing the new Dynavin N7 head-unit - and I want to test it with it's internal amp for a while before switching over to an external amp. I want to test the unit like most people would be using it - on it's own with no external amp. I also want to make sure that the heat generated from the internal amp isn't going to be an issue. While the Dynavin N7 does have a fan, it's not normally used (not sure exactly when it *is* used though) - it's one of the things that I'm not real happy about - to me, a fan can really keep the internal temperatures down - heat is the biggest enemy of electronics - to me, you'd want to keep it as cool as possible inside the head-unit. I seriously think that the fan is one of the reasons why the Rosen GM1010's are so dependable - I mean some of the GM1010's are 10+ years old and still work as good as new - they are built like tanks.

Last edited by jtrosky; 05-21-2018 at 05:50 AM.
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post #22 of (permalink) Old 05-21-2018 Thread Starter
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For what it's worth, I re-installed my Pioneer TS-D1702R 6.75" coaxial speakers today and all is right with the world again. :-) For whatever reason, I just didn't like the component setup - the tweeters and woofer just didn't blend well, IMO. I currently have the stock tweeters installed - I'm going to try the aftermarket tweeters again after I get my capacitors in (3.3uF, 4.0uF and 4.7uF). The stock tweeters are 4.7uF and I suspect that I'll end up with aftermarket tweeters with 4.0 or 4.7uF capacitors - but we'll see.
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post #23 of (permalink) Old 05-30-2018 Thread Starter
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Another update... So after I reinstalled the Pioneer Coaxial 2-ways again (TS-D1702R - fantastic speakers), I tried using the tweeters from the Pioneer component set (instead of the stock tweeters) with a 4.0uF capacitor as a bass-blocker and I did NOT like the sound - the tweeters were just "too much". So next I tried the set of Pioneer TS-T15 tweeters with a 4.7uF capacitor and I'm VERY happy with that setup. I had originally tried the TS-T15 tweeters with the included 5.8uF capacitor a long time ago and did NOT like the way they sounded (tweeters were "too much"). So it seems that the 4.7uF capacitor is the key - at least for my ears (which is what the stock tweeters use as well)... Maybe I should have tried the Pioneer component tweeter with a 4.7uF capacitor, but I didn't.... I'm happy with the way it is, so I'm leaving it alone for now.

Have lots of spare capacitors now (3.3uF, 4.0uF, 4.7uF, 5.8uF and I even have a few different types of the 3.3uF and 4.7uF's (paper, electrolytic, etc). May experiment some more again later. Originally, I was soldering the capacitor right in the positive wire, but that made it much too hard to try different combinations - so started just making "separate" bass-blockers (capacitors in-line with a 6-inch piece of speaker wire with bullet connectors on the ends - this way I can simple swap out the bass-blockers for testing. :-)
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post #24 of (permalink) Old 08-05-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joes74challenger View Post
i have the jl audio c3 in the front doors and c2's in the back deck. i had the option with the c3's to locate the tweeters somewhere else or just mount them in the woofer (convertible speakers they're called i believe). i chose to leave them in the woofers and haven't had a single issue with treble. i never notice the factory tweeters working, the highs are decent. i have a kenwood excelon single din head unit with a 400 watt jvc amp. i never touched the tweeters when getting them installed ( i asked the guy installing it if he disabled them and he said no), and surprisingly they still work ( i figured they'd have died in the almost 8 years i've had the car now).
I know this is a while ago you wrote this but which impala do you have the c3 installed in? I have the 9th gen 2018 model and Crutchfield was saying they wouldn’t fit my front doors.
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post #25 of (permalink) Old 08-05-2019
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Originally Posted by Gerald Hunter View Post
I know this is a while ago you wrote this but which impala do you have the c3 installed in? I have the 9th gen 2018 model and Crutchfield was saying they wouldnít fit my front doors.
I had them installed in a 2010 (8th gen per these forums).
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post #26 of (permalink) Old 08-05-2019
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Like mentioned before. You really have to go for what you want. Not what everyone suggests. Or youíll go out of your mind lol. Iím glad your starting to narrow down your solution and be done over all. Alpine type x will fit I had them in my 9th gen impala


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2015 2lt with centerpoint bose, upgraded stereo to a 2500 watt system. adding more soon
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post #27 of (permalink) Old 08-05-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joes74challenger View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerald Hunter View Post
I know this is a while ago you wrote this but which impala do you have the c3 installed in? I have the 9th gen 2018 model and Crutchfield was saying they wouldn’t fit my front doors.
I had them installed in a 2010 (8th gen per these forums).
Ok my bad didn’t notice that
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