2001 ignition switch/lock cylinder replacement - Chevy Impala Forums
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 09-25-2012, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
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2001 ignition switch/lock cylinder replacement

Hi all,
I'm sure someone probably had to have their ignition switch replaced to fix starting issues/passlock security problems and or electrics wigging out. Was it also necessary to replace the lock cylinder or did just the switch get you running again?

Did anyone use a Dorman brand switch? I see rockauto.com has them for quite a bit less than other brands but I don't want to use a lousy part.

Thanks for any help offered!
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 09-25-2012, 05:30 PM
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No need to replace the lock cylinder. I have never tried a dorman switch, but I would stick with AC delco to be safe, especially with electrical parts.

1978 Caprice Classic Landau
350 2-bolt, stock 4bbl
Stock rebuilt TH350
Edelbrock performer cam + intake
Dual 2 1/2" Flowmaster exhuast (waiting to be installed)
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 09-25-2012, 08:59 PM
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If they key is worn I would replace the lock cylinder. Mine was and was also a contributing factor in my passlock problem. Also replaced the electrical plug behind it.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 11-14-2012, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim1405 View Post
Hi all,
I'm sure someone probably had to have their ignition switch replaced to fix starting issues/passlock security problems and or electrics wigging out. Was it also necessary to replace the lock cylinder or did just the switch get you running again?

Did anyone use a Dorman brand switch? I see rockauto.com has them for quite a bit less than other brands but I don't want to use a lousy part.

Thanks for any help offered!
Problem resolved.

Fixed this quite awhile ago but wanted to give an update for anyone having similar problems.

I wound up replacing the ignition switch but kept the original key cylinder and now the car starts perfectly!

I ruled out the BCM computer by getting a salvage yard replacement from another 2001 3.4 engine for $20. From what I was able to find out this should have at least allowed the car to start, but various options may not have worked since it wasn't programmed to my car. Still a cheap diagnostic test compared to shops though.

I went against common advice and bought a Dorman brand ignition switch instead of factory original hoping to save almost 2/3 the price. So far so good on that.

I went with the Dorman since their drivers side power window switch also fixed my issue with the window going down but not up. I had replaced it once before with a Standard Motor Products switch but that failed after a week. Thinking I had short somewhere in the system I tore the door apart but everything checked out fine. I must have got unlucky with the other part. It was under warranty but I took it apart to test.

Hope this is useful to someone and thanks for the replies that were received.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 11-14-2012, 10:29 AM
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thanks for the update

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 11-14-2012, 11:47 AM
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Glad it's taken care of, but just a note. The BCM test was inconclusive, it's programmed to the VIN, so there is no way the car was going to start with the different BCM in it.

1978 Caprice Classic Landau
350 2-bolt, stock 4bbl
Stock rebuilt TH350
Edelbrock performer cam + intake
Dual 2 1/2" Flowmaster exhuast (waiting to be installed)
Edelbrock IAS Classic shocks
95 9C1 3.08 posi
4 wheel disc brakes!
16x8 American Racing Baja's with 225/60/16 Pirelli P4's

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 11-14-2012, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingnutin View Post
Glad it's taken care of, but just a note. The BCM test was inconclusive, it's programmed to the VIN, so there is no way the car was going to start with the different BCM in it.
Quite possible, I hooked up the salvage yard BCM but the fuel gauge, brake light, abs light and many other things kept freaking out so that's how I concluded the BCM was not bad. I was under the impression that if you put a BCM in that already had code loaded it would start the car after doing the security relearn procedure but don't expect the car options to all work.

Didn't mean to steer anyone wrong but I thought this was the case. Please correct me if that is wrong so others know too.

Thanks for your reply and I hope this thread can help others!
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 11-14-2012, 03:42 PM
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I thought that too, I had 2 2002 base impalas with identical options, one had a bad BCM. I thought since one was going to be scrapped anyway, I could just grab it. I swapped them out, car wouldn't start, swapped them back, both cars would start again. That was when the dealer informed me that is has to be programmed. It may work if you swap the PCM from the same vehicle, but I didn't try that.

1978 Caprice Classic Landau
350 2-bolt, stock 4bbl
Stock rebuilt TH350
Edelbrock performer cam + intake
Dual 2 1/2" Flowmaster exhuast (waiting to be installed)
Edelbrock IAS Classic shocks
95 9C1 3.08 posi
4 wheel disc brakes!
16x8 American Racing Baja's with 225/60/16 Pirelli P4's

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post #9 of (permalink) Old 11-15-2012, 11:41 AM
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Jim, I just wanted to thank you for updating the thread! If you have any lingering concerns or would like me to document your feedback further, please send me a direct message anytime.

Katie
Chevrolet Customer Service
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 12-26-2015, 05:03 PM
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Just replaced ignition switch and cylinder in 2003 Chevy Impala. Let security light blink for recommended time, key would at least turn on the power but would not start the car. Anyone got any ideas that may help?
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