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Old 03-12-2011, 02:14 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Thumbs down EVAP purge solenoid location

Where is the EVAP Purge solenoid a/k/a purge control valve located in a 3.5 V6 2008 Impala LS? I have the part, know it is the reason for my CEL, but can't find where the part is located I have heard it is under the hood, but also heard it is in the back driver side wheel well???

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Old 03-12-2011, 03:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I found it! It is located under the plastic engine cover. This took all of 45 seconds to replace.

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Old 03-12-2011, 03:25 PM   #3 (permalink)
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See the attached document, I couldn't get the pictures to load for you.
Attached Files
File Type: doc Evaporative Emission Canister Purge Solenoid Valve.doc (83.5 KB, 1767 views)

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Old 03-14-2011, 11:49 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks for taking the time to respond. I think the diagram you posted will definitely be helpful to somebody else in my situation!

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Old 03-07-2012, 11:12 AM   #5 (permalink)
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purge solenoid

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Originally Posted by desiann16 View Post
Thanks for taking the time to respond. I think the diagram you posted will definitely be helpful to somebody else in my situation!
Hello I noticed this post. I have a check engine light on throwing a po449 code. Do you know where this solenoid is and if it fixed your problem? I know that code can also mean evap vent solenoid near fuel filler neck. Wondering which one is the most common problem. Thanks!!

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Old 03-09-2012, 08:27 AM   #6 (permalink)
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My DIC kept telling me that my gas cap was loose. It was in fact the EVAP valve. It's up inside the LR fender back towards the tail light. You do not have to remove the inner fender liner to get at it but I did and that gave me an opportunity clean out and spray a bunch of rust inhibitor around where the nasty stuff collects. I have a new one as a spare now but removed the old one and hooked a test wire to it and cycled it a bunch of times and sprayed some silicone lube on it and re-installed it. Been 4 + months and SFSG. The rubber seal gets dried out and the solenoid is not strong enough to "un-stick" it. I personally think they ( valve) should be protected a bit better as they are subject to a lot of road crap that gets thrown on them and live in a pretty nasty environment. Once you repair/replace it just take the car for a drive and the CEL will go out, if that is in fact what the problem was.
HTH

Paul

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Old 03-09-2012, 10:07 AM   #7 (permalink)
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While that can be the issue, I've found it's more commonly the one under the hood. When you pop off the engine cover, you will see it on the driver side top, it sticks up out of the intake, about 2 inches high, it has what looks like a fuel line attached to it, and a wiring connector, it's held down by one bolt. Depending on year, the bolt may be an 8 or 10mm.

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Old 03-12-2012, 07:03 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by retiredpauly View Post
My DIC kept telling me that my gas cap was loose. It was in fact the EVAP valve. It's up inside the LR fender back towards the tail light. You do not have to remove the inner fender liner to get at it but I did and that gave me an opportunity clean out and spray a bunch of rust inhibitor around where the nasty stuff collects. I have a new one as a spare now but removed the old one and hooked a test wire to it and cycled it a bunch of times and sprayed some silicone lube on it and re-installed it. Been 4 + months and SFSG. The rubber seal gets dried out and the solenoid is not strong enough to "un-stick" it. I personally think they ( valve) should be protected a bit better as they are subject to a lot of road crap that gets thrown on them and live in a pretty nasty environment. Once you repair/replace it just take the car for a drive and the CEL will go out, if that is in fact what the problem was.
HTH

Paul
Thanks for the advice. I ordered the valve already so i will see if it works. If not i will try the one under the hood. I did not get any "tighten gas cap" messeges at all though. Did any of your codes read P0449 as well. I noticed that black canister on that valve is really dirty. I cleaned the outside off. I was wondering where you sprayed that silicon lube. Do i have to remove that valve/and evap line to spray it or can i "unstick" it while it is still all attached. This seems very common. My squad is an impala at work and it continues to throw these engine codes as well. Now it happened in my personal car :( Thanks for the input!

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Old 03-12-2012, 07:09 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingnutin View Post
While that can be the issue, I've found it's more commonly the one under the hood. When you pop off the engine cover, you will see it on the driver side top, it sticks up out of the intake, about 2 inches high, it has what looks like a fuel line attached to it, and a wiring connector, it's held down by one bolt. Depending on year, the bolt may be an 8 or 10mm.

Thanks for the input. the dealer tells me the purge solenoid under the hood wouldnt throw a p0449 code but i think they may be trying to pull a fast one on me. Looks like a easy part to replace though. Dealer wont telll me exactly which part needs fixing. But they did say its probably a 300 dollars repair which seems like way to much. Did your car throw a p0449 code? Maybe i will try the purge solenoid to! regardless i guess i will have extra parts laying around lol! thanks again

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Old 03-13-2012, 07:17 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I believe there are two sub notes for that code. One is small leak detected one is large leak ( or I could have it confused with another code, mine said large leak detected ). I removed the valve and where the large vent hose fits on if you look inside there on the valve you will see a small flapper ( for lack of a better term). If you hook a test wire to the two terminals and touch it to 12V you will see that flap open and close. If it clicks and the flap does not open then it's stuck. Just keep cycling the power on and off and it will free itself. ( mine did ) I sprayed it with the silicone lube and cycled it a bunch of times. The valve ( as I recall ) was about 25.00 - 30.00 from UAP. I put the old one back in an have the new one as a spare. Have to be careful with that little 10mm body bolt when you take it out so as not to bust it off. I sprayed some penetrating oil on it, and i also used some dielectric silicone grease on the plug when I put it back in
HTH

Paul

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Old 03-14-2012, 07:27 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by retiredpauly View Post
I believe there are two sub notes for that code. One is small leak detected one is large leak ( or I could have it confused with another code, mine said large leak detected ). I removed the valve and where the large vent hose fits on if you look inside there on the valve you will see a small flapper ( for lack of a better term). If you hook a test wire to the two terminals and touch it to 12V you will see that flap open and close. If it clicks and the flap does not open then it's stuck. Just keep cycling the power on and off and it will free itself. ( mine did ) I sprayed it with the silicone lube and cycled it a bunch of times. The valve ( as I recall ) was about 25.00 - 30.00 from UAP. I put the old one back in an have the new one as a spare. Have to be careful with that little 10mm body bolt when you take it out so as not to bust it off. I sprayed some penetrating oil on it, and i also used some dielectric silicone grease on the plug when I put it back in
HTH



Paul
Ok thanks. I see the part i ordered comes all preassembled with a long black hose that is connected to the black canister then runs towards the front of my car and attaches and fits into a larger rubber hose. The parts also comes already premounted on a bracket with a new bolt to hold the canister in place. Does this sound like they same part you bought or did you just fix the canister? Thanks Again!

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Old 03-14-2012, 04:46 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I just got the valve in a box and that was it.
I would have to re-use the bolt etc.
So far it's still in the garage and the warning has yet to return.

You got one of these right

Standard Motor CP449 Misc Em : Mobile Auto Part Details at Woody's Auto Supply

( this link is for the picture only )

Paul

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Old 03-15-2012, 06:58 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by retiredpauly View Post
I just got the valve in a box and that was it.
I would have to re-use the bolt etc.
So far it's still in the garage and the warning has yet to return.

You got one of these right

Standard Motor CP449 Misc Em : Mobile Auto Part Details at Woody's Auto Supply

( this link is for the picture only )
Paul
yes. that is the valve i purchased. Mine looks the same and is a ac delco but it comes with a black hose already attached to the valve. I initially tried to pull that hose off that part and it seems almost like it is heat melted on real tight and i didnt want to damage the plastic fitting. Was yours easy to pull off to spray that lube inside? If that may fix it i will keep the new one as a spare.

this is what mine looks like.
http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-214-2106-SOLENOID-ASM-EVAP-CNSTR/dp/B001C9SV6S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1331819733&sr=8-4"><font color=http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-214-2106-SOLENOID-ASM-EVAP-CNSTR/dp/B001C9SV6S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1331819733&sr=8-4" /> http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-214-2106-SOLENOID-ASM-EVAP-CNSTR/dp/B001C9SV6S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1331819733&sr=8-4">http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-214-2106-SOLENOID-ASM-EVAP-CNSTR/dp/B001C9SV6S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1331819733&sr=8-4

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Old 03-15-2012, 07:17 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Yeah it was pretty easy to come off.
Just move the clamp and try and roll it around to loosen it. I removed the valve from the car and did the lube while holding it in my hand. Cant recall off the top of my head which is the + and which is the - wire but if you have a test light or meter you can turn on the ignition and then check which wire has the current running to it and then hook your test wires that way on the valve.

If your valve is working then most likely the one under the hood like King said

HTH

Paul

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Old 03-30-2012, 09:18 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Just wanted to thank retired pauly and kingnutin for your input on this. Mine ended up being the purge solenoid under the hood. I got a new evap canister and solenoid from amazon and paid about 45 bucs for both and are ac delco brand. I installed the canister first and the light never cancelled. Right when i put in the purge solenoid it went off after about 10 miles. I had my friend scan the system and and it seems as though i have a downstream oxygen sensor not working to its full potential. Its not completely shot to trigger a engine light yet but i noticed my fuel economy is only about 19 mpg. i used to get about 25 mpg with this 3.9 afm. Anyone else have the 02 sensor issue? whats your mileage? Thanks again for the help!!!!!!!

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