Need help troubleshooting possible MFS problem - Chevy Impala Forums
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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Need help troubleshooting possible MFS problem

2005 Chevy Impala LS 3.8 V6

So it all begins with my wife gently bumping the car in front of her during our last big snowstorm. It was <5mph and only cracked the headlight lens cover on the driver's side of our car. The problems are weird, random, but I feel they are related.
First, the green hazard lights located in the dash (above the speedometer) stay on at all times. I know this to be a warning to said driver that your vehicle has a light out somewhere. So, I went and replaced both headlight fixtures with OE replacements and put all new bulbs in said fixtures. That did not fix the hazard indicator lights showing up in the dash. With that being said, the hazards DO work.
Second, the turn signals DO NOT function properly. When either Right or Left turn is engaged, both indicators blink rapidly both in the dash and externally (both front turn signals and tail turn lights).
Third issue, daytime running lights are not engaging when car is put into drive.
Fourth issue, the fog light button is lit and cannot be disengaged, but the actual fog lights are not on. (bulbs in there are also new ��)
Fifth issue, windshield washer fluid mist feature does not work on my multi function switch lever. This one issue right here is what makes my think that this lever got jarred/jammed in the fender bender and is causing this weird series of issues.
Does anyone have any better explanation?
I’ve got to pull the car apart and do something soon, as not having properly functioning turn signals is not ok with me. Thanks all!

Last edited by rohoninja; 03-16-2017 at 01:56 PM. Reason: did not post year of impala :|
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 09:41 PM
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If I was you I would look over the area that was in the most of the accident. That will be taking out the head light and looking over all wiring It would be Good to have a DVOM for testing. If you don't have a DVOM or DMM I would say that buying a cheap O at Harbor Freight or HomeDepot would be far less then if you were to take it into a shop. Seeing there isn't much that could go wrong past what has already you could get away with a Test light however that isn't very good for the testing your going to need to do.

On the drivers side, I it would be a Light Blue wire for the Turn. What I think it may be doing is back feeding the system and running at kind of a Series circuit. That kind of tells me that your Hazard switch is taking the shorted info and filtering out the short because it has to run back past that before it would short your fuse out.

IT will take a sometime but I will draw up something for your Turning circuit and maybe it will give you a better idea on how to test it for the short. Hardest part of this is just testing. Once you find it however, Please don't Solder things back. If it is in a area that you can just pull the part get the part, If not and needs to be repaired. Buying a Good Crimp tool and weather tight connectors will most likely cost less then taking it to a shop.

James

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James
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 10:44 PM
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Sorry this is a fast crude drawing. I can expand if needed

For now this shows that power for both hazards and blinkers goes to that hazard switch. Its not mechanical it's logical. With that there is protection so it don't hurt the computers in your car.

Drivers side blinker/turn is a light blue wire. On the passenger side it's Dark blue. There are other Dark blue wires in your cars lighting so really need to test wires.





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post #4 of (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 06:52 AM
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Hate to state the obvious but disconnect the battery for a few hours and see if it resets the BCM.

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 09:40 AM
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Seeing you have issues also with your window washer, I am thinking that it is related to wiring short. Your blinkers and your washer unit share the same Splice to ground. So again sounds like when you turn on your blinkers it is causing a Series connection and in doing so lights up alot of other things that are also on that ground splice. This is also the ground for your Washer fluid level light on your IPC as well as other things.

One of the test you can do, Take the bulb out of the drivers side front and when you turn on the blinkers does it make it act up like it did before with the bulb in? This will help confirm there is a short in the circuit. Reason this is, When the bulb is there it makes a complete path. Take the bulb out and that path is broken. So when you do both right and left it would act strange. With bulb out does it act strange on Passenger side when that you use that side blinker?

James

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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That was the issue. I went over the impact site very thoroughly like you said to do in your first post. I was especially keeping my eyes on ground wires and saw a crimped one. The crimp was not the issue I was just going to make sure it was secure by wiggling it around and it fell right off the bolt that attaches into the frame behind thendriver's side headlamp fixture. So, being the son of an electrician that I am, I spliced it and re-secured to the frame. Then I started the car and voilà, daytime running lights came back on, turn signals work properly, fog lights turn on and off, and oddly enough the windshield wiper mist works again. It's as good as new again. Thanks everyone!
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 03:49 PM
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Glad it got worked out for you. To me it sounded that the issue was Ground related. In the path next ground is from the Hazard switch and so that was why it was making things all funny.

James

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That was the issue. I went over the impact site very thoroughly like you said to do in your first post. I was especially keeping my eyes on ground wires and saw a crimped one. The crimp was not the issue I was just going to make sure it was secure by wiggling it around and it fell right off the bolt that attaches into the frame behind thendriver's side headlamp fixture. So, being the son of an electrician that I am, I spliced it and re-secured to the frame. Then I started the car and voilà, daytime running lights came back on, turn signals work properly, fog lights turn on and off, and oddly enough the windshield wiper mist works again. It's as good as new again. Thanks everyone!

It isn't what you Drive that matters, It is how you drive it.

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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So I took the car out today and everything is all good. When I parked it I checked everything once more and noticed the high beams do not stay on when the multi-function lever is released. I pulled the override headlight switch to the furthest position and tried again and they stayed on... and then the hi-beams shut back off when I push it back to the "normal" position.. Any ideas why that would happen? I'm guessing it's something simple again. This one isn't urgent. I'll be fine without my hi-beams.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 07:22 PM
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That sounds like a Bad Multi Switch and sadly they are a good fault part. The good news is you can change them without taking off the steering wheel. Pull it should latch into High on. Then pull again and should latch off. If you pull just slightly it does a Flash for like passing. If you live in my area and care to live I don't flash anyone my lights. Used to be years and years ago you could flash people to remind them they were without lights or with highs on and they would fix issue, now days in some places they just shoot at you.

I say only guess here Bad Multi Switch is the next issue. Should latch a switch in side. Priced at around 87 to 250 depending on make and type at Rockauto

James

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post #10 of (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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I was thinking that as well, however, it does engage and stays, just not in "normal" run mode.

So, I was thinking about what ICUBB said and thought to myself, “do you restart computers when you install new hardware or software?”… Yes, yes you do. The car has a computer/s that monitor and run everything and I installed new hardware (headlight fixtures and lamps).
So I went back outside, disconnected the negative battery terminal, watched a few episodes (2hrs worth ) of “The Office” with the wifey, reconnected the terminal, and bam, good as new. That’s all folks.
Thanks for the help and I hope this thread helps out someone else along the way.
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post #11 of (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 09:46 PM
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Glad you got it fixed. Not sure how the Disconnecting of the battery would change the way the Mechanical switch works. Just keep an eye on your switch operation because there are times that when it is starting to go bad that it will work right then other times it won't

Thank you for updating your post and hope you and your wife find many more years of Enjoyment form your Impala

James
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post #12 of (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 09:42 AM
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Glad you got it fixed. Not sure how the Disconnecting of the battery would change the way the Mechanical switch works. Just keep an eye on your switch operation because there are times that when it is starting to go bad that it will work right then other times it won't

Thank you for updating your post and hope you and your wife find many more years of Enjoyment form your Impala

James
I certainly wasn't suggesting resetting the BCM for a mechanical switch but whatever works, lol.
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