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Induction service

2K views 7 replies 3 participants last post by  kb3gup 
#1 ·
Hello '13ltz 79k

Having a heck of a time as I always do trying to spray sea foam into the tb. It always pools in the snorkel no matter what I do. I was wondering if I can disconnect the MAF sensor and the whole air box and just spray the stuff directly into the tb by hand with everything off and the engine running? Would thing hurt anything? Or am I asking for trouble?

I could pour the regular stuff into the vacuum line but does anyone know if it runs across all 6 cylinders? Or just one bank?

Thanks! Ideas on sea foam would be appreciated or any other induction service. I know of he BG professional as well.
 
#2 ·
The sell a "GDI Cleaner" (can't remember who makes it offhand) that comes with a long "straw" - and you just spray it into the throttle body (after the MAF sensor). That is probably your best bet for DIY. Personally, I think I'd pay for the professional service if it were me. Are you doing this to resolve a particular issue or just to try and keep valves clean (as "maintenance")?

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#3 ·
That would be seafoam with the long straw. Our cars have a tb that angles down once it connects to the snorkel. Take the snorkel off and look at the medal tb throat it will slant down sharply, and the spray from sea foam is too liquid concentrated, it's too heavy to get pulled in with the rest of the air, thus just pools in the snorkel.

I'm having a rough idle on cold start once it idles down Fromm the initial rev up to 1200 or so. It bounces around between 620-790. Once it's warm and been driven it's 650-690 at worst, with 680 being what's set by the computer. This is with all accessories off. I figure it's been almost 20k since any induction service has been done so maybe this will help? If anything it's time.

I'm having 2 tpms sensors going on and off on me which my gm mechanic friend is going to replace this week when they get here, so I'll probably just have him do the BG professional service. I was just trying to save a few bucks. Even with his "on the side" price that BG ain't cheap.

Jt. I know your a computer guy, have you noticed iPads being really slow typing with the new iOS 10. whatever it is? Especially on here? Just a long delay between when you hit the keys and when they pop up, and apps loading in general? Sorry for going off topic.
 
#4 ·
What I'm talking about isn't seafoam. It's actually specifically designed for cleaning direct injected intake valves. It's called "CRC GDI IVD Intake Valve Cleaner" and it's designed specifically for this function. Look it up on their site - I think there is even a video with an Impala somewhere.. You have to have someone hold the RPMs at around 2k while you spray it in - it *will* get sucked in.

Regarding the iPad question - sorry, but I don't use Apple stuff any more (I'm an Android guy now). :) Also, I use Tapatalk to access this forum (and many others) - way faster and easier than using the website. Check out the app...



Sent from my HP SlateBook 10 x2 PC using Tapatalk
 
#7 ·
Just don't expect miracles. In fact, personally, I don't think you'll notice any difference after using seaform or the GDI cleaner. I think this stuff is more of a "preventive maintenance" type thing - not something that will solve any issues that are caused by severe valve coking (which I personally doubt is your problem - but I've been wrong before! :) )..

And if you are using Seafoam instead (or any cleaner where the little hose isn't permanently attached tot he can), be VERY careful not to "shoot" the straw into the intake, where it could get through the throttle body and into your engine!! That would be a disaster!

Interested to hear your results.

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#8 ·
Yes JT I think you may be right that it won't solve any problems I'm having, but maybe help rule out at least one possibility. I'm having a bit of a rougher than I used to idle especially when the engines cold. It's not horrible yet, but I'm hoping to stop it before it gets bad. Also somewhere during the "warmup" process I'll get misses, only 2, always 2 on random cylinders but usually 3,5 which are on the right bank and I think are common on one fuel rail. Once the engines totally warm and been driven a few miles it won't miss. I just want to see if I can catch this problem before it gets too bad, and it gets too cold outside. I've noticed the long term fuel trims tend to run over 10 especially on bank 2, one time at idle it even hit 19% for 30 seconds or so. But that old theory of "not supposed to be over 10" may not be true with DI engines because of the differences in the engines? The specs say it's ok to be over 10, it's just that I've read that if it is that can be a sign of the engine compensating for a lean condition, thus maybe causing my random misses. Also all 6 plugs seem to be quite black and wet.

Next random problem I'm having are codes- U0100,U0101,C0561. Randomly I'll get "service stabilatrack" on the DIC then it'll flash off immediately with no problem, but have code U0100, which means it lost communication with the PCM/ECM. I tested it the other day by purposely spinning the wheels and it flashed "service stabilatrack " when I did that one time out of 8 spins. The other 2 codes I just got the other day along with the u0100 for the first time. If I'm not mistaken the PCM for the stabilatrack is under the air box? If so, I'm going to make sure all the plugs are ok and aren't corroded. I'm a little concerned that I just got the transmission electronics worked on and now I'm getting a code for it (u0101).

So other than a new rear left caliper, brakes all around. Tie rod ends front stabilizer bushings and endlinks, which I'm doing this coming week. That's all that's wrong with the car :) lol

I haven't had a chance to do the induction service but I will post back when I do.
 
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