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"DIY" Do it yourself/how to Post your "DIY/how to" on here for 7TH Gen. All posts are subject to review and should only be used as a reference and NOT as a substitute for professional repair/service

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Old 03-12-2010, 10:10 AM   #1 (permalink)
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'03 front wheel bearings

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I am sure this is not hard just looking for pointers.

Wife's car has an annoying howl that I am sure is front wheel bearings. Might as well do both.

Prefered parts store is Advance because they are local with great hours and ability to get parts.

I will take another look but I am pretty sure the car in non-ABS, I don't work on it much, oil changes are done at the dealer quicklube and the car has been amazingly reliable so I am not very familiar.

So I gather I need a 36mm socket for the nut.

Looks like they carry National or NTP, good/bad?

If anyone knows a better place to get these speak up I am open to suggestions. I have Carquest, NAPA, Autozone, Bumper to Bumper and I am sure some others if I just drive 30 minutes.


I know I give some of you FWD guys a hard time but this car is approaching 150K miles, we bought i new in 03. One set of tires, brakes, intake gasket last summer, and now wheel bearings. I call that a very good car. Struts, belts, hoses all original.

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Old 03-12-2010, 10:23 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I have Masterpros on mine. But that's what Oreilly sells. They're ok I guess. The left side is going after only a couple of months but I wonder about Kev's "torque it with an impact hammer" method.

Big thing is warranty. If they're willing to stand by their product for one or two years, go for it.

I want to say the wheel hub socket is actually a 33mm, but I'm not 100% on that.

Oh, and get a new axle nut, so you can use the original one to hammer the axle out of the hub.

Edit: Also, make sure you have a u-joint socket, a shorty (1-inch) extension, and a 3-inch extension. Don't use the 6-inch, you won't have clearance on the top bolt.

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in·sane   /ɪnˈseɪn/ Show Spelled[in-seyn] Show IPA
–adjective
1. not sane; not of sound mind; mentally deranged.
2. of, pertaining to, or characteristic of a person who is mentally deranged: insane actions; an insane asylum.
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Old 03-12-2010, 10:46 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Now that you say that there is a new O-Reilly's in Appleton, another option.

Anyone else have input on the socket size???

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Old 03-12-2010, 11:39 AM   #4 (permalink)
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32-35mm... depends on a few things, OEM or replacement axle? OEM or replacement nut? yr of car/trim also see to play a factor, dont ask me what size goes where, all i can tell you is that mine was a 32/33mm and when Will got his new axle, my socket wouldnt fit... its no harder than a brake job, well... depending on how badly your axle is seized in the hub LOL
I used Timkens....




AND DAMMIT IT, MY TQ W/ IMPACT WORKED ON MY CAR YOUR CAR JUST HATES YOU!

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Old 03-12-2010, 01:47 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Original axles. I listed above all I can remember ever being done to the car. Maybe I just need to rent a large socket set from the store.

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Old 03-12-2010, 01:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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pull the wheel off and measure it, better yet buy an extra,
you'll want to keep the old nut on the axle while you pound the ever loving hell out of it w/ a mini sledge to remove it from the hub LOL

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Old 03-12-2010, 04:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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why are the non-abs ones more expensive???

Any chance I can throw an ABS one on?

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Old 03-13-2010, 06:41 PM   #8 (permalink)
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They look to be the same design. You should be able to get away with it.

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Old 03-15-2010, 03:58 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Well I waited a couple days to start and all of a sudden locally I could only get one Raybestos hub. Put it on and it seems to be an improvement in the frontend growl.

I am having a heck of a time getting the other rotor off. Since I can't get another hub till tomorrow the penetrating oil has 24 hours to work it's magic. Not optomistic though I already tried propane with a penetrant quenching.

The nuts ended up being between 32 and 34mm there was no 33 in the set I rented. The 34 did the job though.

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Old 03-15-2010, 05:28 PM   #10 (permalink)
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really the rotor is giving you issues? that sux :P
I usually hit the hubs w/ antisieze when i do brakes just to prevent this, also coat the piss out of the axles where they sit in the hubs ;)

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Old 03-15-2010, 06:37 PM   #11 (permalink)
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One came off with a few taps. The other is being a major PITA.

It is afterall a 150K mile wisconsin car, and all the salt that goes with that.

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Old 03-16-2010, 10:18 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I've done the torque with impact on a few cars here, all have piled on at least 10k since then with no problems. And ditto on the anti-seize, rust is not your friend...

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Old 03-16-2010, 06:27 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Well today when I picked up the hub I went ahead and got a rotor too since it was only $22.

Tried to beat on the old rotor some more, said the hell with it and unbolted the hub. About three hits on the rotor to remove it and the hub together and the rotor comes off. Murphy strikes again.

I had really pounded on the rotor so I just used the new one. All fixxed, no more growl.

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Old 03-21-2010, 07:31 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I learned when working on my old car that not getting the hub nuts tight will kill bearings so I found a good 4' long piece of pipe and used it on my breaker arm (I don't air tools). I set the parking break and kept tightening until the car wanted to pull on the brakes or my back gave out. I used whatever it was ZZ sells, way cheaper than Rock Auto.

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Old 03-21-2010, 07:35 AM   #15 (permalink)
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On my old car I thought I had the hub nuts on tight enough after changing axels, wrong! This time on the Impala seeing I don't own an Impact gun I used a 4' piece of pipe on my breaker arm, set the parking brake and whenched on it until the car wanted to pull the parking brakes and my back started to hurt. The bearings I used were whatever ZZp sells they were cheaper than Rock Auto.

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