|02-28-2010, 01:37 PM||#1 (permalink)|
Join Date: Aug 2009
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
Trans side cover removal
Well, I could not come up with any more excuses as to why I should not get this project done (None that my wife would believe!)
Since I could not locate any detailed info on the net, I would like to share my experience. Just for the record, I am a simple home mechanic with average tools and an above average mechanical aptitude. I have diagnosed my problem to be the Pressure Control Solenoid, but since there are four solenoids in there, I decided to change all four at the same time (PCS, TCC, Shift1-2, Shift2-3)
GM Parts List:
The rubber boot that surrounds the bottom of the steering shaft will separate when the subframe is lowered, be sure to re-seat it after you raise the subframe!
All wrenches/sockets used were metric! A large breaker bar comes in handy as well as an Impact wrench and an air ratchet.
I chose not to drop the pan and drain the fluid until after the solenoid job was complete. This allowed for a small amount of fluid to leak onto the floor after I removed the driveshaft. It could have easily been done before I started the removal process. I just did not want to go to all that trouble until I had a chance to evaluate the solenoid situation.
After the job is complete, you may need to have your wheel alignment checked, but mine appears to be OK.
Please note, I have a 2003 Impala 3.4 - 6 cylinder with 80k miles. This worked for me and may not work for you.
I have attached some photos:
Last edited by Ogriv; 03-11-2010 at 08:03 AM..
|The Following User Says Thank You to Ogriv For This Useful Post:||
|07-06-2011, 03:46 AM||#4 (permalink)|
Join Date: Aug 2009
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
The repair is holding up just fine! I have put a few more thousand miles on the car and the original symptoms have yet to reappear. I did receive a few PM's requesting the details of the original symptoms so I will briefly explain them here.
I had two symptoms. The most prevalent occurred when I would accelerate from a dead stop. The engine would rev up but the car would not move for a second or two then it would act like you just popped the clutch on a manual transmission and would "clunk and jerk" into motion. This would also occur from the shift from 1st to 2nd while in motion at a speed under 30 mph or so. The second symptom was less noticeable but was just as annoying. You could hear a low "whining" sound coming from under the steering column. This sound was coming from one of the defective solenoids. I'm not sure if it was coming from the coil of the solenoid or from the fluid rushing by the partially open or closed valve of the defective solenoid.
|05-06-2013, 04:15 PM||#5 (permalink)|
Join Date: Jan 2011
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Curios as to why, when you were that far in, that you chose not to replace the driveshaft output seal...as this seems to be a source of leakage that would lead one to believe they have a transmission leak. One of your pictures clearly shows how accessible it was when you had everything apart, and it seems that for the time you put in, that it would have been a good idea to replace it at the time.
Again, just curious.
Excellent article, and I will keep it in mind for the future.
2004 base trim, purchased 01/26/2011 with 47,480 miles. Jan 2013; 150,500 miles, on second set of tires and brakes, and a lot of gas. One great vehicle! Top end rebuild due to BHG at 158K. 6/2013 with 166K (still going strong!)
|05-16-2013, 02:35 AM||#6 (permalink)|
Join Date: Apr 2012
Thanked 709 Times in 578 Posts
11. This part is called your "steering knuckle"
2001 Impala LS
TransGO Shift kit
Spectre Cone Filter
Thunderbolt Spun Cat
ZZP Alternator Power Cable
Wagner Thermoquiet Pads
KYB Strut Plus (Rr)
L67 Pass Eng Mount
Tinted tail lights
Dipped Rims and emblems
Led plate, full interior, trunk, and console
Black interior accents (handles and switch panels)
JBL GTO 6.5" and 6x9"
Hifonics Hifi 1500 (KnuKoncepts 4ga)
Rockford P3 @ 500rms
"Apply Dielectric Grease or I kick some arse"
|05-26-2013, 05:42 AM||#7 (permalink)|
Join Date: Jan 2013
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Trans Side Cover Removal on 07 LTZ
I want to add my experience with this walk-through on my 07 LTZ with the 3.9L engine and 80,000mi. I was having the same slipping symptoms (not positive on the whining solenoid, but I think I could hear what Ogriv was talking about). Before it was doing it 100% of the time that I accelerated normally. If I put the selector manually in 1 it would not slip, or if I was REALLY easy on the gas it wouldn't do it.
The instructions in the original post do apply perfectly (as far as I can tell) to the 8th gen impalas like mine.
I did skip step 10, and anything related to removing the steering knuckle and strut/spring. This prevents any concerns with an alignment.
I had quite a few issues with rusty/stubborn parts that I'll mention; perhaps they'll be helpful to someone else. I'm in a similar skill range as Ogriv; a simple home mechanic with average tools and not afraid to buy more tools or tear into new things.
I lifted only on the drivers side lift point which seemed to work well (see number 4 below: if you remove all 4 sub frame bolts, youíll need to have your hoist on both lift points).
1. My axle shaft was frozen inside my wheel bearing. I wanted to save the bearing, so I didn't introduce heat, but it took a very long time to get out. I used an air hammer in the indentation of the axle shaft, which didn't work at first. I soaked it with penetrating oil and spun the axle nut back on until the outside faces of the nut and axle were flush. Then I worked it with a 4lb sledge and the air hammer again. It finally came out.
2. The trans side of the axle shaft didn't pop off the internal clip and out with my pry bars. I went to autozone and rented a slide hammer and a FWD CV Axle Puller Adapter. It's perfect. Get one before you start just in case.
3. To use the slide hammer, I had to remove the dust cover that is trapped in place by the wheel bearing. When I was getting the wheel bearing out, it came apart and I had to buy a new one.
4. It wasn't implicitly clear to me that I had to lower the sub frame way down (I thought the 4 bolts in step 14 were the engine mount bolts). I figured that out quickly, as the standard opening is much too small to do this job. Upon the recommendation from another friend whoís done this job, I removed the 2 driver's side sub frame bolts and backed the passenger's side out 2 turns.
5. I had bad luck with the strap (come-a-long) from the passenger brace to the driver lift point like it says in step 21. It pulled the engine back, yes, but it also pulled it up. I got the cover out by putting my strap from the middle of the passenger brace to the passenger lift point. That pulled it a little towards the passengerís side and twisted the driverís side of the engine a little towards the driverís seat. This was all with the engine lowered way down.
6. I never got the cover to "fall out". At this point, I slid the cover down into the opening I'd created, but then had to spin it 90 degrees counterclockwise to get the fat side of the cover out first.
7. The solenoids are very simple to replace. I used needle nose pliers to remove the clips. I got all 4 solenoids and the gasket from Rockauto. The gasket wasn't listed on the "automatic transaxle", but if you go to "manual transaxle" for the same car (don't think chevy actually put a manual transmission in the 8th gen impalas?) it has the gasket with the proper AC Delco number.
8. On reassembly you need to make sure the steering shaft boot is pushed back down onto its groove. It is really easy to do, but it is important to remember to do so you protect the area from water.
9. I lost about 6 qts of trans oil during the process. I let it sit overnight, so that time added to the loss. I didn't drop the pan before I started, because I just changed the filter last month to see if I had any debris from a true trans failure.
Letting the engine drop that far with the hoist was very intimidating for me. Be aware that this job will stretch your comfort zone if you've never manipulated your engine with it partially installed. I'm very pleased with the results though. Thanks to Ogriv for the write-up and thorough description of symptoms; I wouldn't have tried this project without your information.
LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.impalaforums.com/diy-do-it-yourself-how-to/242595-trans-side-cover-removal.html
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